October 2005
A neighbour of mine recently purchased a Picasso diesel. After signing for the vehicle,the salesman drove him to the local Tesco, one and a half miles away, and put £40 worth of fuel in to it.On the way back 1 mile from Tesco the engine stopped and was started and driven 1/2 mile to showroom, where he was told that the salesman had put petrol into the tank.After waiting 4 hours he was told everything was O.K. now and he took the car home.He has had no trouble since,but wonders if any long term damage has been done
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Currently driving lovely but ageing 98 Lexus GS. Bored now.
Do I spend 14-16k on:
1999-2000 Audi A8 4.2 Quattro, solid, goes like a rocket
2000 - 2001 Jaguar S-type, nicer inside (to me), bit more staid
As new as possible Nissan Primera T-spec
As new as possible Honda Accord Executive
Wait til Lexus LS430 is in price bracket (about six months now)
Some kind of Merc about which I know nothing but there seem to be a few S-class about at that money.
In all cases HAS to be auto, HAS to have satnav, HAS to be a salooon, has to have good build quality, over and above that I'm not worried about image. I know the Accord and Primera are not in the same market sector, but would be all new and shiney.
Excluded BMW cos they just don't do it for me I'm afraid.
What would YOU do?
Please don't suggest a Mondeo/Renault/Vauxhall, been there, done that!
I would say I'm open to other suggestions but we'll get bogged down in the relative merits of three cars that aren't even on my list if we're not careful. Having said that, if there are any blindingly obvious cars I should consider... Read more
Early current shape Mercedes S320.
Best luxury car in the world? Almost certainly.
I was checking my tyre pressures on the xantia and just be chance i took of the trims and had a look to see if the weights were there an lo and behold only the offside front had a 5g weight, all others nothing there.
For a while i felt the car is not particularly stable at high-speed ie 70mph+ and recently noticed some vibration at 80mph. the tyres are avons.
Everything else (alignment, spheres, bushes etc all all fine)
So would this be 1) the cause of high speed instability and 2) vibration.
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I think 5g is the smallest weight I've seen so it may be that it was the only wheel needing one.
I'd guess your wheel trims weigh a lot more and unless they are fitted perfectly each time will have more of an affect.
Am wiring an alarm to a 1999 T reg 1.8 Brava and would like to know the wires to connect to for the central locking and the flashers. Does anyone know of a good source of this information please? Read more
Hiya all
Here's the full spec: Peugeot 406 estate 2000 2.2 HDI 136HP unit. 29k miles. Should think you all know that by now!
And very nice it is too. But my head has been turned by claims of 'more power', like the TV programme. Actually what's really done it is the 110HP mondeo estate I drove felt like it had a better spread & this Pug doesn't feel like it's has an extra 25 odd horses pulling it. Bit more, but not so you'd hugely notice.
So what I'd like to know is can it really be achieved by such an apparent one fix process as re-chipping? Or is this playing with the power delivery curve & it's a trade off between a broad power delivery against a narrower band with a high power spike? In short is it a good idea?
If so, where would you go? I'm based in the south east, Camberley actually, but travel regularly to Newark/ Mansfield area & once a month to Newquay. Although to have the job done right 1st time I'd prob travel pretty much anywhere.
If not who would be good to make sure that the standard set up is maximised to its best. I've yet to meet a Pug main dealer (although isn't it a citroen engine?) who can do much above the ordinary. Come to think of it do pug/citroen have lots of tweekability or are they set up as standard pretty much at the top of their capabilities?
Final consideration is that I'll prob run this car as far as I can, so if it's a case of 'the light that burns twice as bright lasts half as long' then I'll abandon it.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Oh yes, at risk of invoking the great oil debate, anyone know the real reason why pug INSIST that this 2.2 diesil must have 5W 40 oil? Is there an implied issue?
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I stated that the Ford web site quotes a transient overboost
figure for the Ford/PSA engine. I cannot find any such
quote for the 130 bhp engine, where I am referring to
the engine data listed by Ford.
It doesnt immediatly come to hand on ford.co.uk, it mentions the T/O on the 2.2 though not the 2.0 however look at Mondeo specs on:
www.ford.ie
That mentiones it, otherwise the brochure will clarify the point.
I'm looking to buy a nearly new C-Max 2.0TDCi at auction.
I've subscribed to ADT's Auctionview service and nearly all the suitable vehicles are closed sales and/or at the opposite end of the country (My nearest ADT site is Blackbushe).
I understand that there are agents who will buy (for a commission) on behalf of individuals. I reckon that there should be enough margin between Ford Direct prices and auction prices to pay the commission and still get a bargain. The FD 2 year warranty does not inspire me
Has anyone used such a service and go as far as to recommend an agent?
TIA
Bob Read more
Joe Dowd is a very nice man to deal with. Have bought a couple of cars through him. Highly recommended.
My car (94 fiesta 1.3 injection) has just failed it's MOT on CO emissions by quite a way, it's meant to have <0.3 CO and mine scores 2.7/2.8. Is there anything I can do before it goes back on Monday eg injection cleaner? and/or what are the most likely causes eg is it my cat has gone - thanks for any help - Paul
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Should also have said that many modern engines have HC(even Valencia/HCS) in the 100/400ppm. without a cat.
hi, the power steering pump has self destructed on my 306 1.9td '96,i rang a breakers and they said i need to know the pulley size as there is a quarter inch difference between them, how can i find this out as i don't have the pulley anymore? will peugeot know?
also the more important thing is are the pumps the same on the citroen zx/xantia as i know where i can get those parts cheap?
cheers
chris Read more
got another 306 pump in the end off of a m reg dturbo assume it'll be the same as my n reg only cost £10 aswell
chris
When I started driving, in the ?60s, it was always reckoned that 3 years was the optimum time to keep a new car. Accountants had worked out that reducing annual depreciation was balanced by increasing repair costs after 3 years. This wasn?t surprising since most cars rusted freely and major rebuilds of engine, transmission and suspension were routine after only 30-50,000 miles.
What?s the optimum time to keep a new car now?
Rustproofing and mechanical component life has improved out of all recognition. Even cars from volume producers will go 150,000 miles with nothing more than servicing and replacement of wear-and-tear items.
Is 10 years / 100,000 miles, from new, a cost-effective change point with modern cars, rather than 3 years?
I?ve noticed that major manufacturers re-engineer their models on a cycle of about 12 years. They may well re-style the body shell halfway through, to change the mark number, but make few changes to the platform or mechanicals. They?ll also do a ?face-lift? after about 3 years as well as annual specification changes.
Would 12 years / 150,000 miles be more cost-effective?
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I did these kind of sums many years ago when buying a car/several cars over the years for SWMBO.
We decided that reliability /ease of repair/body life and prolonged availability of cheap parts in the future were as important as other things.
As a result she ran Mini estates for 10 plus years (rustproofed and DIY'd) , Runs a Peugoet 106 diesel (now 12 years old and still going strong) and I run a Mark5 Fiesta.
All have characteristics: pleasant and easy to drive/reliable/cheap to run and easy to repair. Plus lots of cheap pattern parts.
A new engine? £250. Gearbox £100. Exhaust (fastfit) £100 Catalyst £150 tops.
Annual repair costs? The one-off rubber boot/hose/brakes / exhaust bit. Average £100 pa or so..
Bangeromics it ain't . both cars are very ood bodily. Require an annual underbody check - 30 mins top plus rust touch up/prevention.
I reckon the 106 could easily last 25 years.. and 55mpg. (lots of parts in scrapyards.) And the Fiesta? yes.. same (if I wanted to)
Annual oil and filter changes and meticulous maintenace helps. Ford electronics (aircon etc) so far have been 100%.
Much easier to run than Audi/BMWs/Rovers/Mercedes /Volvos?Jaguars I have had in the past.
Key is: good bodywork. Garaged at night (so drys off) and meticulous maintenance.
On the basis of the above I would never buy Vauxhall (engine electronics) Fiat (electrics and ride) and mid 1990s Mercedes (rust). Toyotas and modern Fords are OK.
madf
Whilst looking for that 'ideal first car' for my son, I noticed 2 large boxed ads in the local paper & by the style, placed I assume by a trader. Both cars are not run of the mill and are fairly desirable and reasonably priced. The mileages are not stated so presumably high.
Both these ads ended with 'NO TIMEWASTERS!' boldly stated.
Even if I was looking for one of these models I don't think I'd bother. Mobile no only given so if you phoned this conjures up a meeting place in some car park with an oafish dealer holding out his hand for your wedge within 1 minute of your arrival. Heaven forbid if you want a test drive and don't even mention an independent check. You could just imagine the reaction if you had a 30 minute test drive - using up his fuel and then said --- No thanks!!
No one wants to deal with punter's who have no intention of buying in the first place but surely this is part of selling any item and it is quite likely that people will view and for genuine reasons decide not to buy. Adding NO TIMEWASTERS to me says the same as 'if you view you buy'. Surely I can't be alone in disregarding these ads out of hand.
Anyone agree or disagree Read more
"we have sellers looking for cars like yours if you
pay us just £95"
Agree. I put my car up for sale in Auto Trader recently and the only people who called me were time wasting canvassers.
"Hello, are you the person selling the Subaru Forester"
"Might be, are you interested in buying it?"
"No, I am from dog breath car magazin............."
"Two words darling and the second one is 'OFF' bye bye"


I find this difficult to believe ,once the petrol has got through the system and the engine stops it will never restart and run. As you state it was filled with £40's worth of fuel it must have been running on the diesel fumes and when it stopped it must have had pure petrol in the tank .You can put upto 25% petrol to diesel mix and it will be ok on a one off basis but not the other way round.it will give the injectors a good clean NOT to be recommended though