August 2005
Hi,
I am considering purchasing a black 1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 SE Limited Auto from Arnold Clark dealer in Glasgow. It's covered 74K and is it A1 condition. It's been fully serviced from new at a Jeep dealer and was converted to run on LPG by an approved installer in 2000 (this being one reason for buying it).
I wondering if anyone has anything that I should watch out for on Jeep or any opinions of them before I go ahead.
Thanks
Paul
Read more
hi can anyone help i have a 2001 focus and my instrument panel is going awol. The problem i am having is that i could be sitting there doing 40 when all of a sudden the rev counter,speedo,fuel gage, temp gage start going mad ie going from 0-140 empty and full. there is no difference in wat the engine is going sounds fine. I was told that there could be a serge in power coming from the alternator which i have changed and this has made no difference wat so ever. is there anyone else who has had this problem and if so how did u correct this. thanks neil. Read more
I would agree with the speed sensor theory as my 1.8 did very similar things.
I took it to a Ford dealer who charged me £££s to use their diagnostic computer to tell me it was a faulty battery - ironic as the battery was 2 months old at the time.
I eventually bit the bullet based on the useful info gained here and put a replacement sensor in (£25 from Ford) and in the 3 1/2 months since have not had a repetition. Bit of a swine to fit mind you as the retaining pin did not want to leave the geabox!
I got not fault codes at all, but I assume this was because the fault was very erratic
A mate of mine has a 1999 Volvo V70 Estate Auto with the 2.5 10v engine. Recently it has developed a brake problem. Over the last week the brake pedal travel has increased, yet the car stops safely. We have checked the following; disc and pad thickness and DTV - all are text book and the pads have plenty of meat left on them, all flexible hoses are sound and are NOT ballooning up when brake pedal is pressed. We have changed brake fluid using a pressure bleeder (type that is pumped up using built in piston) and we even checked under the carpet near the pedal for leaks (bone dry) and whilst the pipes were still connected - we removed the master cylinder just off the servo so we could see the rear seal and push rod area and it too was bone dry.
The servo also behaves and after pumping the brakes with the engine off then starting it with the pedal hard on, it sinks slightly when the engine starts.
Can the master cylinder leak internally without showing external signs of leakage?
Many thanks in advance
Andrew Read more
Hi,
My Audi '94 80 TDI is making a whirring noise between 2000 RPM and 2500 RPM. It will do this when the clutch is either in or out. The noise seems to be coming from the right hand side near the back of the engine (looking forward), but It's hard to tell with all the clatter.
Does anyone have any ideas, before AUDI charge me a small forture just to have look?
Cheers,
Pete
Read more
Hi Pete.
You might have a bit more joy if you post this in "Technical Issues" - that's where the knowledgable mechanics tend to hang out. Thread in Discussion has been deleted in favour of this one, this post has been moved. - Hugo
Obvious things to check are any belts under there - alternator, cambelt that sort of thing.
I know getting information(dimensions, mpg figures etc) on current models can be obtained easily from most car magazines, but does anyone know of a source for older models? Read more
Look in public libraries and secondhand book shops for a Haynes manual.
Hi all I hope someone can help me out here.
I?ve got an 2 litre fiat Ducato camper van on a G reg. It seems as though the exhaust manifold is blowing slightly. So last weekend I got under the van to replace the gasket only to find that the top nuts holding the manifold to the engine block are inaccessible. I even took the rocker cover of the top of the engine to see if I could gain access that way but it didnt help.
I?m obviously missing something stupid here, I cant believe that the engine has to come out to get to these nuts.
Has anyone out there done one of these before and if so, how did you solve the problem.
Thanks
Tom B
Read more
Not sure as my manual only lists manifold removal as part of the engine dismantling procedure but its worth trying anything to avoid lifting head.
In my case the nut & part of the stud was missing ( also lots of exhaust sealer round the manifold, blew just after I bought the van privately?hmm?) and I felt there was not much chance of replacing the stud in situ.
Sorry to labour the point but are you sure all your studs are present and not sheared halfway down the shaft, the gaskets don?t usually blow unless this happens.
I guess if these engines didn?t have houses attached they would have been down the scrappy long ago!
Anyway best of luck, Steptoe
I have a Passat 6 months old. The other day Myself and the other half open the back and front doors at the same time we here a crunching noise look down and the chrome strip on the back door has some how got caught on the front drivers door. Has anybody else had this problem or as I suspect that someone has tried to remove it and bent the chrome.I tried to replicate problem on the other side but all was ok. Read more
Used to be a common problem on Cavaliers, the strip on the back door would come away slightly and catch the front door.
I'm contemplating the purchase of a Transit van of some sort, second-hand. Where can I find specifications, including fuel consumption? A "Google" hasn't helped much. Read more
The Peugeot Boxer (similar size to a Transit) is equally as good and has the advantage that a dash mounted gear change enables you to walk through to the rear without getting out.
Before it was introduced into the UK in the early 1990s I was transported in one equipped as an MPV in Egypt and was so impressed I recommended the range to our transport manager.
The Boxer acquired for a trial period proved such a big hit, particularly with the drivers, who delivered newspapers not only in the local area but to many parts of the UK, that virtually the whole fleet was replaced with the model.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
The Ignis Sport is due for it's 9,000 mile service soon.
What's a good oil to ask the dealer to use?
It's a very freely revving 1.5 16v DOHC VVC engine.
It's used mostly at motorway speeds twice a day for a total of approx 120 miles/day...
I assume the dealers would use a 10w40 Semi Synth, but would it be worth using a Mobil 1 type oil to get more smoothness/etc.
I would be prepared to pay a small premium for more responsiveness/ economy.
I think the oil coming out of it is the "running-in" oil that comes from the factory... swarf and all.
Cheers. Read more
Thanks oilman.
I actually dug out the manual and the recommended oil is a 5w30 Fully synth. Sounds expensive, especially for 9000 mile service intervals, which is every 12 weeks!
Seen an ad for a car on the Auto Trader that seems to good to be true.
Response from seller is that car is on UK plates RHD
2 years old, but now in germany.
He says Car needs to registered in UK and just taxes associated with registering it in UK need to be paid. Also offering to ship and isure to UK and use autotrader and square trade PURCHASE PROTECTION & REFUND PLAN.
My head says walk away but we all like a bargain!
My main worry is that car is stolen, but if it is out of UK sysytem how can I check?
Would the autotrader and square trade PURCHASE PROTECTION & REFUND PLAN provide me any protection in this case?
Anybody out their seen this sort of possible con before or am I just to suspicious.
PS car is advertsied at around 1/4 of UK price.
MOTORMARK Read more
Interestingly I have noticed a couple of silly low price 'buy it now' prices on flash cars on ebay recently - but the ones I saw had all had the auctions pulled - which suggests that something was up.
(eg boxster for 4K)
Browse
I had a 96 vintage jeep, same model, before by dearly beloved wrote it off. Also gas converted. I loved it. Handles well for a 4x4, lots of power, comfy too. Agree it is smallish inside, especially in the back. IMHO, the best looking 4x4.
Watch out for rust around the windscreen aperture and roof edges and water leaks through the screen seal. The luggage area light will probably not work, check www.jeepclub.co.uk for a fix. Check the aircon blows cold. I needed to replace a couple of diff seals due to leaks. The 4 litre engine is pretty bullet-proof. I used to get around 21 mpg. Make sure the lpg conversion was carried out by an approved converter and that the certificate is there - your insurance will want to see it if you have to claim. BTW, try DaimlerChrysler for your insurance, they were the cheapest for me and were excellent when the car was written off. Not even a form to fill in for the claim. Cheapest if you apply online. If I think of anything (it is late!) I'll post it.