May 2005
Anyone know what those orange things on posts are? The post is about 2 meters high with a bright day-glo orange inverted "v" shape pointing up to the sky /\ like so. See them quite often, especially out on country roads and mainly seem to be amongst shrubs or other greenery.
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I year old 2.4 diesel Transit 125T330 campervan -drivers door makes creaking noise 30mph and above. If window is down by about 4" noise stops. Wonder if it's to do with air pressure against such a large door? Pressing against window or door makes no difference. Have tried lubing window guides and spraying WD40 on possible culprits but no joy. Have altered setting on door striker plate-no significant difference. Window works fine. N/s door doesn't make the noise. Anyone got any ideas?! Thanks.
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That's a big help-will ask local Ford dealer. Thanks.
There was a 5-min review of the new Fiat Croma on French tv this morning. Before seeing it my reaction would have been "who on earth needs or wants a big Fiat?", but it's actually not bad looking at all.
It's pitched as a cross-between an MPV and an estate - 5 doors, spacious, choice of 3 peppy multijet diesels. UK£15 grand-odd for the 1.9jtd
I'm so impressed with the build quality of my wife's Panda, maybe other Fiats are worth a look?! Surely there brand and reputation is so low, the only way is up?
Or is Fiat the next Rover....
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What does Croma mean? Well,according to my Italian dictionary it means a quaver,presumably a musical notation. Incidentaly,modern day Fiats DO NOT RUST!
When I came to open the rear offside door on the 406 today.....it wouldn't.
I have taken the inner door cover off and both connecting rods that pull the mechanism to release the door are still connected and operating (from outside and from inside the car), as is the rod that actuates the central locking. The central locking on the electrical system still operates the on the lock moving the said lever.
I cannot remove the door opening/locking mechanism as it is secured from behind the door (in the recess in front of the inner wing) as I cannot open the door to get to the three screws.
The mechanism is covered with a plastic cover which has one screw securing it, but it cannot be removed without destroying it as there is a lever riveted and this has been done after the cover was fitted.
I have tried gently kicking the door from the inside with both the inner and outer handles being in the "open the door" position and with the lock definately unlocked on the mechanism with no joy.
If the problem was associated wth the child lock, then surely the outside handle would open the door.
Does anybody know how to open the mechanism from inside the door, or is it a matter of destroying the plastic cover and hoping there is something that I can pull or push to release the door an then be able to remove the locking closing mechanism?
Reggie Read more
I have sorted it. I tried various attack plans which I will not go into, but the only method in the end was to destroy the lock through the hole on the inside of the door with the interior panel off, with a screw driver, a drill and a soldering iron to melt the plastic which surrounds it. Not easy due to the very limited access.
It took me over two hours but I have released the door, and by putting the swiveling "locking piece" which is still on the backplate back in position manually can secure the door for now.
What caused it will remain a mystery, but I suspect that either the lock was not releasing where it mattered ( the rods etc were all moving arms into the lock), or possibly a spring that releases the locking plate may have broken. Who knows?
A second hand locking mechanism is now being sought.
Reggie
**** Thread closed. Discussion continues in Vol 16 ****
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=32613
I note that tonight's new series will feature:
Range Rover Sport versus a tank;
Game of five-a-side football with the Toyota Aygo.
Damn. I just checked my diary, and see that tonight I'm down for hoovering my car mats.
Oz (as was) Read more
Heartbeat or.............that's a hard one.
Off on holiday for two weeks tomorrow. I normally put the car on the drive, in gear, with the handbrake off. Is it really necessary to do this. Had a few occassions of the handbrake sticking in the past. Read more
Handbrake on my Corsa sticks after just a few hours - but its usually only when its damp weather. Disovered if you attempt to drive forwards nothing happens, but if you try to reverse the brakes release??
my son was hit by a car today and the driver did not stop only slight injury,s
the help i need is tracing what make of car it was the police are hopeless
i have the cars wing mirror the internal part nos are167 125-4/2/1 and 167135-4/2/4 18-200 any help thanks
dave
{Subject header re-titled to make it less vague. DD} Read more
Some Jeep parts begin with the numbers 167 but I can't find any that match the whole number.
Over the last couple of days, the site has been very slow to load.
Has anyone else had this problem?
(All other sites are OK)
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Sorry for the slow response Doug, but if you install Mozilla Firefox and use it instead of Internet Explorer, you'll find in the Tools menu a link called "extensions". When you click on that it will open a little box that shows you which extensions you have installed--none for now. At the bottom right of the little box is a link "Get More Extensions" and if you click on it it will take you to a page from where you can download a small add-on called "Adblock." Use the search bar on the page to find it. Once that's installed you'll find for every ad on the page a small tab has been added, just click the tab to block the ad.
To block everything from a particular ad server, look in the bottom right hand corner of your browser window and click on the word "Adblock," which will open up a window that shows you all the web addresses you have blocked. For example, the tangozebra server is ad.uk.tangozebra.com and will have a load of subdirectries after it. Delete the subdirectories and put *.* in their place, so it looks something like: ad.uk.anyadserver.com/*.*
If you right click on an ad you can copy its url by selecting "Copy Link Location" from the menu. That can then be pasted direct into the list. Of course once the problem is fixed, you can remove the link from the list of blocked sites. One thing to note, some ads, like the Nissan popup, change their address periodically. Once you've clicked the new ad to get money for the site, just block it again using the tab.
Sorry if you already know this, but I thought it might be helpful.
I recently bought a second hand ecu for my golf that i would like to keep as a spare. However i would like to test it on my golf to be happy that it is a good unit.I have connected it to my car but when i switch on the ignition the message 'immobilisor activated' appears on the dash and the engine fails to run. It has been suggested to me that the ecu has to be somehow coded or programmed to my key?? Therefore i cannot test the unit to check its condition. Any suggestions would be appreciated with costs involved if possible.
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Thanks for that but just so as i understand in more depth is the "chip" actually in the key or somewhere else on the car. I agree I probably wont ever need it so will just store it in my loft for now, however i am inquisitive and like to understand how things work. Would reprogrammming have to be done by a vw agent only? many thanks.
OK, I have spend the last hour reading this forum lots, searching about all of this, and I have noticed that not many people are fond of or even recommend to do engine flushing at all.
This is the current deal: I have a Civic it has 71k miles, just hit that. The previous owner had it at 50k and sold it to me at 69k. I had always been serviced upto 50k (with a stamp) I know he has maintained the car, but i dont know to what extent and how much work has been done, how many oil changes. He done stuff like a new exahust and new radiator and new battery. I purchased some new sparks, and have got the oil filter and air filter, and probaly a fuel filter.
He has told me that the majour service is due, belt change (getting done on Thursday) but im thinking its been servied upto 50k with stamps and i reckon he may have carried out the work, so why not flush the engine when doing the oil change to be on the safe side.
Its a good car, just feeling sluggish now so maybe it might do the car some good, so people...any ideas....i will get the valve clearences' checked when the belt is changed.
I have heard about the two engine flushes. one is the Forte common one, another is this VAG one that I have just learnt about, how do you people rate this stuff, shall i use forte or shall i use the VAG stuff...?
Also what order shall i carry out the service.
1. Belt Change. (will allow me to see state of engine too)
2. Oil Change (maybe flush - depending on what people say)
3. Forte/VAG Fuel system cleaner (what one is better??)
4. Fuel Filter.
5. Air Filter.
I think thats enough for the car.
I know ive gone on a bit, but lets see what you experts think!! Read more
Try and close yourself off from the marketing matey. An engine has the power that it has, and there is no substance you can add to any part of the car that will increase it.
You say yourself that you've not had one before, so why do you think it's down on power? V-TEC engines are high-revving and sporty, the power is at the top end. They will feel fairly gutless low down.
There's no need for an oil flush as part of routine servicing. As sierraman points out it may cure a problem if one exists, but if it ain't broke don't fix it.
If you are really unhappy with the power output, you could increase it (slightly) in one or more of the following ways:
Have the ECU chipped (if possible on this engine).
Fit an induction kit.
Fit extractor manifolds and larger-bore exhaust system.
Fit hot cams.
Get the head ported.
There is no product in a can that will increase power, improve economy, stop your engine smoking, make you more attractive to the opposite sex, etc. It's all snake oil.
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There is/was a load of these posts round here where a huge pipeline 150kms long was buried. ISTR it is for visual observation from the air for before, during and after aerial photography for compensation payments for lost crops and the like.
Martin