April 2005
I have narrowed down my lease car selection to an A3 2.0tdi sportback or a 130ps Passat Estate. The local Audi garage could not be more helpful & have given me two 24 hour test drives and plenty of information. The VW garage most local to me - didn't return my first two calls, I eventually got to talk to their fleet manager (explaining this was a company purchase, but that as we don't lease many cars, it would be bought from whichever dealer I chose in an attempt to keep him interested). "No problem sir, 24 hour test drive, we can arrange that, give me a hour to organise & I'll phone you back to arrange details" - that was 2 days ago, nothing since. Tried another dealer earlier in the week, could only take it out for 24 hours if I arranged my own insurance, but she would still have to clear it with the sales manager - again never received another call from them!
I cannot believe their disinterest or is it incompentence, god only knows what they would be like after they sold it to me!
Am I unlucky with my two local dealerships or is this sort of attitude more widespread?
Mark Read more
My Brother in laws Renault megane Scenic (petrol, 1600cc)is using coolent at a rate of about 1 litre every 2 days. The car runs OK, does not white smoke, has no apparent leaks (system pressurised to 1.5 bar - held steady). New cap has been fitted -no improvement. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance. Read more
Sounds like thermostat problem.If it opens late and sudden it overpressurises system.It will expell water from expansion tank cap..Any problems with the temp guage.First sign is usually temp guage goes slightly higher than usual.Then drops to normal when pressure returns to normal less coolant..?
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Steve
On Sunday, I'm going to view an '04 reg Accord 2.2 CDTi Executive saloon at a Honda dealer. Arctic blue pearl, 5k on the clock. No Sat-Nav or other extras, except (I think) 17" alloys. Apparently this is an ex-demo vehicle.
Screen price is £18,495, but I've been 'stalking' the car via the internet for six weeks, and it still hasn't sold.
My trade-in is a 1992 J Volvo 850 2.5 20v GLT saloon. 65k miles supported by loads of MOT certificates and some service history, but being realistic not worth a great deal. Still runs very nicely, but cam belt has never been changed (!) and I feel it's getting to the stage where several expensive bits (clutch, catalyst etc) could fail in short order. Besides, I can afford to get something much nicer. Don't really want to sell the Volvo privately, as I have to go into hospital for an operation in a couple of weeks, and could do without the stress of timewasters, canvassers etc.
Compared with similar vehicles in the Honda dealer network, the price looks a bit rich for what is a 12 month old car. After six weeks on the forecourt, I'm hoping they will cut a nice deal for completion in April, either a 100% cash deal or part-finance if they can beat the 5.75% APR I would pay by extending my house mortgage.
Would anyone like to suggest what a suitable 'price to change' might be?
This is assuming I like the car. I am expecting to.
Thanks,
Chris
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I have a late middle aged, very mild mannered, friend and colleague in one of the Swedish offices of my employer. In his intergalactic mileage Volvo 740 GLT, he chauffeured me to the coach station at the start of my journey home to the UK yesterday evening; Smooth, gentle, laid back, unhurried, mechanically sympathetic, softly spoken. All are accurate.
So, as well as (already) knowing that he's (yet another) Hog fan amongst my Swedish friends (1973, but don't know the exact model), what did I learn is his real pride and joy?
A 1972 Chevelle that he's owned for the past sixteen years, and in which he has just transplanted the original humble straight six with a tuned 454 that he imported from a motorsports division of GM. That's seven and a half litres of US muscle, with a holley carb the size of a three bedroomed semi, to you and I.
As if this ain't enough, my smooth, gentle, laid back, unhurried, mechanically sympathetic, softly spoken friend is going drag racing with it!
Just great.
Made my day! :-)) Read more
My thoughts precicely.
my son has a megane 1.5dci and has been quoted £380 for its 2nd service. he thinks that is steep. I have no idea, is he right ? still has over a year warranty left, so not keen to use non Renault for service in case it invalidates warranty. Read more
that does sound steep - a 2 year/20,000 mile service on a corolla D4D is about £170
I am thinking about using Forté advanced formula motor flush on my PUG following it with Forté specialist injector cleaner. I have read over the various postings in relation to Forté and have formed the opinnion that it is a good brand which makes good products.
My PUG was recently examined by a mobile engine tuner who, after conducting his numerous tests, affirmed that there was no adjustment of any kind required as the car was running very well(he still charged me the fee of £55 for coming out and doing the tests!) - but it left me secure in the knowledge that my PUG's engine was fine. Checking through it's history, I don't think it has ever had an engine flush and/or injectors cleaned. It's done a genuine 65K from new and is some 14 years old.
I wouldn't ordinarily consider flushing my engine, but since Forté products are so highly rated, was thinking if I should flush the engine and follow it up with a treatment of injector cleaner. Given that my PUG is an 1900cc 8v engine with a CAT - and the old adage of 'If it aint broke, don't fix it' ringing in my mind - is it:
1. Worth me treating my car to these Forté prodcuts?
2. Should I leave it and not tinker with it?
3. Is the use of these products recommended for such an old engine?
4. Any other advice/hints/tips?
I will call Forté tomorrow - or failing that Monday morning for their 'advice'. I am a cynic when it comes to such cleaners and additives, but since many have commented on the value of Forté products, am coverted.
Any input would be welcome. Thanks in advance.
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Im not plain stupid, just a special kind of stoopid. Read more
ihpj Ive found a few places on the net who can supply but want around £18 a bottle! delivered.
pls keep us updated.
Just wondering what the consenus was with regard to car cleaning products.What is considered to be essential when cleaning a car properly (obviously a bucket and sponge).I have read reports of clay bars being used to thoroughly clean the paintwork prior to polishing,something I had never heard of.Prices vary greatly from products Halfords stock to "high-end" products that can cost £50 for a small tub (i.e. carnauba wax).Just curious to see if the stuff I am buying is a waste of time if I am looking for a "showroom" finish.I used o use Auto Glym and was happy with that but is it really any better than Turtle Wax products??
Also looking for feedback on the best product/method of removing scratches.I own a Metallic black 04 Vectra and I am convinced that on each of the 3 occasions that it has came back from the Dealer (Warranty work) there has been a new scratch added.Obviously I can't prove this, so the next best option is to try to remove them if possible. Read more
You can buy a version of T-Cut intended for metallic paintwork - another method is to use toothpaste (very mildly abrasive) which also works, believe it or not, on minimising unwanted scratches on audio CDs...:-)
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
Currently have a Clio 172 Cup (03 plate) which I have had for 6 months, but it is too expensive to run so have decided to change.
I reckon it is worth about £7000 or just less (Glasses guide) as it is high mileage (33,000).
I want to have some cash left over so have a set a budget of £5000 to buy a used car.
Main considerations are fuel economy and general costs to run, though safety is important also.
Obvious options seem to be Yaris or Micra (but dare I say it these seem girly cars?), Corsa(long in the tooth?), Fabia (good cars), Panda (strangely appealling) or Punto (too old again?)
Don't want Renault again and Fords give me backache.
Any others I should consider?
Outside option is a Smart ForTwo - had two previous ones so like them a lot and mpg is good and from other owners experience they stand up well in accidents.
All thoughts and comments are welcome to help me make a sensible decision!
Andrew Read more
I agree the 1.3 CDTi is a cracking engine, but if you only do a relatively low mileage like me the 1.2 would be plenty economical enough. Well, enough for me anyway.
Sadly this subject has come up before and it will always develop into an emotive bun-fight. This kind of subject simply can't be discussed in a cold and frank way; these are people's loved ones we are dealing with. Thread locked before it gets unpleasant.
ND
Today, the A64 was closed for (at the last count 3 hours) because of a fatal accident. Clearing the road would have taken all of 5 minutes once a tow truck arrived...but no...the plod have to 'investigate' and while they do the road ceases to be our right of way while they slowly, carefully make sure that someone is to blame and that it will hold up in court. Result is that we travelled a round trip (back home again) of 16 miles in 3 hours. My wife's new car will have to wait till tomorrow.
Way I see it is that driving carries a risk of death just like flying or other 'hazardous' activities. If you die doing it, so be it. Once I'm dead I don't suppose I could care less who was 'responsible'. However, I would like to sleep in my own house without being woken by a shot in the head and go for a walk on a country lane without being knifed because I'd like to feel that these should be non-hazardous activities.
'bout time the plod got their priorities right.
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I obviously expressed myself badly.
The difference between someone getting killed, with consequent mayhem, and 'just a crumpled motor' is often just a few inches difference in the point of impact. Yet one is pretty well ignored and the other impacts the lives of thousands of people. This does not seem entirely logical? The likelihood of either being the result anything worse than a lapse of concentration is very very small.
My '03 Megane 1.9dCi has worn its rear tyres down to 2mm in 25000 mls. The fronts have 5mm on each. The two rears have worn evenly and with no odd marks. When I replaced them with two more Michelins the fitter seemed surprised at this wear ( as was I ) and could not suggest an explanation. 60% of the milage has been on motorways and the tyres have been checked weekly when cold. Any ideas out there ?
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ON the Rf goona, its on 36k
The fronts are on the last legs, past the wear indicators on the outside shoulders, on the wear indicators across the middle, healthy tread on the inside.
The rears are still well short of the wear indicators, look to have at least another 10k on them, but are showing a definate tendency to wear on the outside shoulders as well.
so even tho the tyre wear is uneven, 36k fronts is about average for all the previous cars I have had.
Browse
Well, Honda were pretty useless when I approached them on a new Civic - they just couldn't be bothered. VW were much better, but were asking silly money for a Golf Sport 1.6. Ford were pretty good, but in the end, no-one came close to a deal on a Mazda 6 (thousands cheaper than the Golf, and a better car).
I just can't believe how many times I've failed to buy a Honda now.
My son recently bought a Civic Type R - from a more distant Honda dealer, who could be bothered; perhaps I'll try there next time ?
On second thoughts, i'll stick with Mazda.
Though that's at the second attempt to deal with Mazda - I tried to buy an MX-5, but the (different) dealer couldn't manage a test drive, so I bought an MGF VVC (D'oh!)
Just don't get me started on motorcycle dealers ....