February 2005
Ok so I've just bought a little Triumph Spitfire and she's sat on my drive ready for a little TLC before the summer.
Trouble is, I've managed to snap the ignition key in the barrel. I got the piece out with needle nose pliers, but now I don't have a key! The break is right where plastic meets metal, so the shaft of the key is entirely intact but detatched from the 'handle' and I can't use it.
Who do I take the broken-off piece to for a duplicate? Will a regular key-cutter touch it?
And no-one say: "Consult your nearest Triumph dealer..." Read more
Have a german made TDDi (Diesel) Mondeo and it has thrice given me the Engine Warning Light. It does not blink, but after starting the engine, it will stay there when it normally should go off. It will stay for only a few days and then it will go off. I also notice more black smoke coming out (by looking at the left side mirror as exhaust pipe is on left for my Right Hand Drive mondeo). Also, the car seems less powerful and less smooth after the warning light.
I sent my car for servicing and also reported the problem with the warning light to the Ford Local Agent here and they had my Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve (EGR) cleaned and they claimed to have chip off hard black carbon deposits in the EGR. After that, I observed less smoke and the car regained its original conditions (i.e. smooth and original power).
Recently, I am seeing the warning light again. And as before, the light went off after 3 days. Is this a typical problem in yours too? Or is it a good practice/habit to have the EGR cleaned every now and then (although I don't know how!) and the car was merely telling us via the warning light whereas other diesel engines car may not?? Or could it be the local diesel fuel I get???
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The first shock was the price, the second the amount of hassle/sweat involved in fitting the new leads.
Car was misfiring, sprayed water on leads in the dark and noticed some arcing near the leads.
After a couple of hours, starting from left to right managed to change 2 leads on the inlet manifold side. The problem is with the lead nearest to the throttle cable on the right (the one I now think is causing the arcing - TYPICAL) I just can't get it out. It sits around 5" down, there is very little space and the 'off the shelf' HT lead removal tool is useless.
Can anyone offer any advice/tips on how I can remove this lead and also whether it could be a plug causing the arcing or is it more likely to be a lead?
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Thanks for your reply.
After phoning another VW dealer, managed to get my hands on the 'important' HT lead removal tool (£15). What a waste of money, managed to break it within 10 minutes. So was left with the 3rd (from 6) HT lead cap attached to the spark plug. After an hour trying to remove it, lost patience and had to resort to the crowbar to break the plug with cap still attached. Have now fitted new plug together with 3rd HT lead. 5 days gone 3 HT leads down only 3 to go. Will keep you informed.
Motto of this story is: Need leads changing - take car to a garage
What sort of fuel consumption should I expect from a 1.6 engined
147? Ta
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Think you are looking at mid 30's. I had a 147 2.0 Selespeed and only got low 30's over two years. These cars have electrical gremlins, but if you are prepared for that then OK.
Assume you are thinking to buy, or are you worried about current consumption ? They aren't great on fuel - 120 bhp out of a 1.6 - they just are not supposed to be fuel efficient !!!
Hi,
I noticed at www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/HID/hid.htm they are selling after market HID lights. No not xenon bulbs but actual kits to convert you halogen lights (Dipped) in to Xenon (HID) lights.
Quite pricey at £315 but includes wiring harness etc.
My question is though about the legalities of doing this conversion. I believe that any car sold in the EC with Xenon's has to have headlight washers and be self levelling to avoid dazzle but fitting an after market system would not have this?
What do you think?
Cheers
Jlo Read more
Hi,
I e mailed autobulbs direct to ask them about the legalities of fitting HID kit and had a very quick response back from them.
Here is there reply.
Cheers
Jlo
'You are quite right, to be legal you need to have a self levelling system
and headlight washers. However although technically these aren't road legal
they usually still go through an MOT as the light pattern is correct. Also
if need be these can be removed in no more than 5 minutes (literally) and
you can put your standard bulbs back in.
It isn't road legal but we have not heard of anyone having any problems with
them. Hope this helps.'
Can anyone explaine why the flashers on the nearside of my car go faster than the offside ones. Flasher can on it's way out?
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Finally found the fault it was a chip in the management system, replaced under warranty.
please help.. today i have replaced the upper suspension bushes on the rear suspension assy. a clunking noise has been evident for months . prior to this i have fitted new shocks and inspected the coil springs.......... i still have the damn noise can anyone help? i cant see how to change the bottom bushes as i looks physically impossible as the bottom casting of the shock carrier is in the way and no tools can get behind it to push the bushes out,all help appreciated. Steve Read more
Well done Steve, and sorry for misleading you into thinking that it *could* have been the other bushes, as mentioned in an earlier thread.
DD.
My 1974 Beetle started normally this morning, but then proceeded to 'chug' for want of a better word! Sounded like the normal air cooled sound, but 5 times louder and a bit slower! Also, the car was lacking power, and I couldn't even get it fast enough to leave 2nd gear....
There's creamy gunk under the oil filler cap.
Does anyone have an inkling as to the likely cause?
Cheers. Read more
no problem was just curious as if both leads on one side i would be surprised if it would run at all never mind rough...cheers...keo.
A friend of mine wants to change from using an oil pressure switch,which controls a warning light,to using an oil pressure sender,which will control an electrical gauge,on his Saxo VTR autograss car.
Has anyone on here done it,and if so,where is it possible to buy said sender? Read more
Demon Tweeks?
www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/catalogue/search.asp?keywor...s
Please help...I have a 1999 Mitsubishi Galant V6-24. I have today been trying to fit my old Sony stereo and 10 disc changer to replace the standard Philips stereo that came with the car. After fitting the Sony stereo I discovered that it no longer worked! so I removed it and put the old Philips standard stereo back in.
Fair enough....but now there is a problem. The central locking doesn't work any more. It was working fine before I started messing around with the stereo, so I think I've done something without knowing. When I press the unlock button on the remote, the hazzard lights flash, but instead of the doors locking there is just a continuous bleep noise coming from somewhere....this noise then disappears if I press the button again. Also, with the ignition switched off, there is a very faint buzzing noise coming from somewhere behind the dashboard. This buzzing noise disappears when the ignition is turned on (or if the key is turned to the auxillary position).
I am completely at a loss as to what has happened here....so if anyone has any ideas then please let me know!
Many thanks,
Terry. Read more
I suggest a visit to the Mitsubishi VR-4 Owners Club website which is at www.clubVR4.com The V6-24 is similar to the VR-4 but without the twin turbos. There is bound to be someone there who can help. Well worth joining the club, too, for UKP20.
I have fitted a Sony head and CD changer to my Legnum (Galant Estate) VR-4, and have the colour codes for the stereo wiring. Mine was fitted with the original Japanese Mitsubishi stereo, so a bit of work was required to change the connector.
I didn't find any connection to the central locking. Check that you haven't accidentally disconnected something in the dashboard.
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Unfortunately the key didn't work. It seemed the blank wasn't quite right, and even when the correct blank turned up the manager of the place said that the broken key was too distorted to get a proper cut.
Nil desperandum, with the photocopies of the broken key (and of course some proof that the car is mine) they are sending it off to be resolved by a higher power. They are confident that a new key can be made from scratch, not sure how.
In the meantime, I want to do some tuning work on the engine and possibly take it for a pre-MOT inspection. Seems I'll have to hot-wire the thing as the key may take a while. In any case I'll be taking the ignition block off to take it back to the cutters with me when the key arrives - I don't want to mess them around having to take it home to try it out.
Now I understand the principle of hot-wiring a car (and the electrics on this are particularly simple and accessible) - you simply bypass the ignition switch and complete the circuit. But I've never actually done it. What I need to know is, is there any possibility of dangerous current or voltages around the ignition switch? I want to be confident that I won't fry myself or ruin the battery.
If the mods think advice on hot-wiring is inappropriate for this forum, please e-mail any tips to gfewster@zoom.co.uk
All help gratefully received.