February 2005
I'm sure there has been a previous thread about this - but I can't find it. The rust on the rear brake drums on our Focus Chic looks 'orrible through the 3x2 spoke alloys. I tried painting the drums with old motorcycle cylinder black - which looked good for about 6 months, but now the rust is showing through again. Can someone remind me, please, of the availability of suitable paints?
Many thanks. Read more
Watching the programme last night I noticed that Judge Deed had changed his car from Audi S3 to Porsche (or does he have both?)
Anyway..the Black Hats cut the nearside front brake pipe, causing Jo Mills to crash whilst chasing the baddies.
Question - don't most modern cars (especially luxury sports) have a back-up system working on diagonally opposing wheels, allowing the car to brake safely?
...I know, I should get out more..
P.
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Oh, I have no scientific proof to back it up, but from too many hours spent browsing various websites of cars I can't afford, I always got the impression that Porsches were very strong cars chassis wise.
Friend sent me a link to this very funny video:
www.big-boys.com/articles/topdui.html
Mind you, I'm totally screwed if I got pulled over in Florida, because I can't recite the alphabet backwards when I'm sober, let alone drunk... Read more
Hi
Hope someone can help.
We have got an S Reg Clio. The oil warning light flashes on and off when warm, going over bumps, or jerking in the gears. It also happens when changing gear but never stays on - any ideas?
Next thing I was going to look at was the electrics but not sure how easy this is?
Rich Read more
As I mentioned before.Still sounds like a loose wire.probably from the oil pressure sensor/related wiring..Oil temp takes a bit longer than 10 minutes.to heat up...
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Steve
ive a m reg nexia which was running ok when until i had to change the head gasket,now its changed and heads skimmed and sorted job done , i now put my foot down and it has flat spots and a general loss of power when i accelerate . please can anyone help ? p.s. where can i get a mannual from for this car ? cheers
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Cheers everyone. cambelt one out,now runs great.thanks
We have a 2002 1.8 petrol Scenic that has done 32,000 miles. This week it suddenly developed a severe rattle around the passenger side towards the rear & it sounds like something is banging against the underside of the car.
There does not appear to be anything loose, e.g. exhaust, so I am worried that it might be the catalytic converter that has separated from its casing. The car is still within its warranty so hopefully it'll get fixed.
Anyone had anything similar?
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suggest you check the rear exhaust heatsheild just above the exhaust pipe in front of the rear axle,these are very flexible and often bend if driven through water or hitting an object in the road. they bend against the centre/rear pipe causing a very loud rattle.
It has happened a couple of times before and by fiddling with fuses I have got them working but this time although fuses are clean and intact I have lost both. Any clue what to look at next appreciated. Read more
It is a balmy 2.5C here in the Cotswolds this morning so aircon would not be happening anyway but I pulled the three wire connector apart - pins connect to the fan on front of radiatior and sockets lead to 'rest of car'. A circuit exists only between red and black of the [fan side] pins. There is no path to earth from any pin but a path to earth from brown socket - but as [at this temerature] there is no circuit to the brown pin that is usually in this socket then there is no path to earth through the fan. There is a therocouple on the fan. Should I have a look later when/if the temperature gets above the minimum for aircon or will that make no difference?
My Honda Civic is nine years old, and to my knowledge is still on its original battery. In recent months it has been failing to hold a charge sufficient to start the engine after the car has been left undriven for as little as 48 hours. When used daily, there is no problem at all, and other than this, the car is faultless. I can't find any interior lights stuck on, or anything else that might be draining the battery.
Q1. Is there anything else I need to check which might be responsible for these symptoms, or should I bite the bullet and replace the battery? Mrs Ed is getting fed up with helping me to jump start.
Q2. Can anyone recommend a source of inexpensive but reliable batteries, I don't want to pay Honda prices.
Q3. I haven't got the security code for the radio, but it has not locked me out yet. What triggers the code security to be activated, ie. does a 'dead' battery still provide enough power to the memory chip? Considering that when the car was left for a week over the Christmas holidays, there was so little charge that even the digital clock died.
cheers,
Ed. Read more
Try your local motor factors for a competitive price - easiest way is to ring round using Yellow Pages.
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
Anyone remember these fine old workhorses? Saw one on the way to work, a K reg which must make it about 1972 and one of the first registered in the UK I should think. It was parked in a layby and the driver changing one of the front tyres. What surprised me more than anything was that although it looked very tidy in its white paintwork, it was not immaculate which meant it was probably still in everyday use and not been restored.
There's a 504 family estate I see around the Bath area on occasion but it's not so clean although much newer.
We used to have these 504's as a family when they were new. They were tough as old boots. Couldn't break them.
Many ended up getting shipped to Africa in the late 1980's where they no doubt did many more harsh miles. Read more
Yes, there was apparently a roaring trade in the late 80's early 90's for 504s and 505s getting pinched for export. Sometimes just the parts were stripped before export, sometimes the whole car.
Maybe that's where ours have ended up... Better book a holiday and bring them back!
Bought a 99 v plate saab 9-5 with 72k on clock. Has a very limited warranty (3mnths or 3k, which I will do in about 6 weeks).
I want to make sure I get all the niggles sorted now. Obviously I didn't want to sound like a complete fool when I suggest what needs to be looked at so hope someone can help:
1) Front suspension makes a clunking noise when going over speed bumps, and I am going suitably slow. It doesn't do it when I go over bumps with just left side or right side, only when whole front goes over. Feels like under the engine may be catching the hump. Is this shocks, suspension or something else? Is there another simple check I can do to narrow it down?
2) Oil light has flicked on an off a couple of times after a longish journey. It doesn't come one in conjunction with the triangular warning light in the middle of the dash. I guess this just means top the oil up.
3) Can feel juddery vibration when driving above 70, below this drive is very smooth. My limited knowledge leads me to guess it is just wheel balancing. Again, is this a symptom of something more sinister and what other basic check should I do?
Help on any or all these much appreciated. Read more
Might be worth giving the previous owner a tinkle.
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Spray-on domestic stove paint. Cheap, very heat resistant. If it rust after 6 months, give it another quick squirt.