January 2005
Hi,
I have a 1995 cavalier 1.7TD GLS. Recently over the last week or 2, when starting the car for the first time in the morning, the starter engages the engine, the engine turns but a second or so later, the starter retracts before the engine gets a chance to start. Once started and warm, it seems to operate normally.
I have had the starter out with the notion of replacing it. After a clean, the bushes look fine. The clutch for the drive was OK. I put it in a vice and tried to turn, it wouldn't shift. The return spring is also in good condition. The moter is OK as it turns the engine well.
The only thing I saw "abnormal", was the 3 screws securing the bendix were very loose. I tightened these and put the starter back in. After letting the car sit overnight, in the morning (a cold one) the car started first time with no problems. The following day, back to the same fault where the motor disengages before the engine fires. My wife who pointed this out to me says it isn't as bad as before but very similar symptoms.
Any ideas?
Thanks Read more
2002 Picasso owned from new 45K miles. Windcreen is scratched so badly (by the wipers) that it is dangerous and needs replacing.
Headlights,streetlights and sunlight creating internal reflections within the glass that result in a haze. When it rains it is even worse as the wipers cannot collect all the moisture as it nestles within the scratches.
Scratches are obviously caused by the wipers as they follow the arc. I've always had the car dealer serviced and agreed to changing blades when recommended etc. I never use ice scrapers. Only use autoglym glass cleaner. Resevoir always topped up with screenwash.
Do you think I'm being unreasonable in trying to claim a new/repaired screen under warranty. It is supposed to last the life of the car, right? Owned many cars all 2nd hand, never had a problem.
I suspect that the glass is inferior and not up to the job, anyone else had problems? Read more
The build up of scratches is pretty insidious. I didn't notice the first scratch as it wasn't causing the problems I described.
I'm sure you are correct when you say that only a handful of manufacturers produce glass, but there must be a possibility of a faulty batch. Like I said, I've been driving around in sheds for the last 20 years and this has only happened with my new car.
If blades are should be replaced every 10,000 miles or so (avg. miles, 6 months for me) why doesn't it say so in my owners handbook?
Here's a question for the legally minded, among you: If you buy a car with outstanding finance (hire purchase), are you (the new owner) liable for paying it off? Do you even own the car you've just bought? Read more
Car still belongs to finance company. This is the primary objective of getting an HPI check done before buying.
Remember V5(c) indicates keeper not owner.
Having been involved in an accident in November 2001, where I was put in a position of having to take some of the blame for the car in front of me (long story), we have just received a county court form from a solicitor acting for the other party with respect to costs.
For the legal minds here, the form is a CPR Part 8 Claim form. No enclosing letter has been sent, but it appears that we have to respond to this within 14 days. It was even sent to our old address!
From what I can make out a figure for damages has been agreed but there is arguement over costs (about £1k).
My insurance company will no doubt ask me to send it to them for them to deal with it, but we are getting hacked off with these people forwarding stuff to us, rather than go via our insurers.
The question is, is it normal practise? Or should they be sending everything to our insurers? My wife (her policy with me as named driver) has been identified as the defendent.
This annoys me a lot. It is over 3 years since the accident took place. Personally I consider this as a form of intimidation, but may have to accept there may be a perfectly reasonable legal arguement for this approach.
Any advice would be gratefully received - PU, David etc??
Thanks
Hugo Read more
Daglish
What you have said is basically what Mark and the broker said.
Legally I have a responsibility to the other side, yet the insurers have a responsibility to me.
Hence they are likely to pay the minimum they can get away with and get it settled, because if I have actions against me that could hold water in a court, then they are the ones that could have to pay.
Talk about complicated, a few months after the accident I also received a visit from an assessor, who wanted to take me to the spot and get my exact story about where the impact took place etc. I suspect the insurers are trying to drag it out as long as poss.
Hugo
I have found a dealer selling new and pre-reg Alfa 156 JTS Selespeeds 2004 at a good prices but without Alfa warranties, the warranty is provided by Car Care Plan.
My questions are Alfas are they as bad as some parts of the press make out and does anyone have any experience of Car Car Plan warranties
Thanks Read more
"It might be a 2004 model, but the car was actually built in 2003, judging by the shipping details.
Following the link at the bottom of the ebay page referred to above gives: www.ukliquidations.com/AdCre8or/2005821437/FullSiz...g
Note the date 11/09/2003."
But isn't that always the case? Latest year's models always start shipping months before? Rather like April's editions of monthly magazines seem to appear in Feb?
Question marks are because I am not sure!!
Had to go to a well-known tyre chain for a couple of tyres to be fitted today. Fortunate enough to know someone who works for well-known tyre manufacturer, so got tyres from him and used card to get tyres fitted for £5 each (tyre fitters have agreement with tyre manufacturer).
Tyre-man expresses annoyance at having to do it at all, and refuses my request to switch front and rear tyres around (due to low value of transaction).
Sure, if he's not getting a subsidy for this, he's probably not best pleased, but such is life. There's no need to make the customer feel bad. And refusing to switch the tyres around is just plain childish. It would have taken about 2 minutes and there were no other jobs waiting.
--
Mattster
Boycott shoddy build and reliability. Read more
I agree with you, it is very poor business sense on their part. If they had done the job for you, you would be telling people how good the service was and recommending them so they have done themselves no favours either.
Meant to post this last week but forgot :(
For anyone who's interested Costco are currently selling an RAC badged safety kit comprising:
- Warning Triangle
- High Visibility Vest
- Torch
- Telescopic wheel brace
- Tyre pressure kit & depth guage
- Emergency fuse & bulb pack
- Heat retaining foil blanket
- Heavy duty & latex gloves
- Utility knife
- Screwdrivers
- Pliers
- Ice scraper
- De icer
All supplied in a convenient canvas holdall @ £16.99 +vat.
All items appear of good quality so for anyone who's in need I'd say it represents very good VFM. Read more
Thanks for that VM, picked one up today for SWMBO, £19.96 inc VAT. Argos have the same item at £29.99 so quite a saving. The H1, H4, H7 and other bulbs included must be worth more than half of the price alone so well worth it.
PP
A question for tuners or anyone using these plugs.
Are they any good?
I read that they are prone to damage when detonation occurs but is that the fault of the plug or incorrect set up of the fueling system? Basically the car needs to be tuned properly as I understand it.
Any comments please?
Cheers
Simon Read more
:)
oh well,,it does make good reading.....
and yes,,my engine does help to brake the car,,"engine braking"
mine has it so does everyone!!!!
The idling speed on my 1996 Megane 1.4 8v has been a bit low for a while (750rpm). When I got home last night, it dropped to 500 & was struggling a bit. It's also stalled once or twice in the last few weeks which was unusual. I replaced the air filter some months ago. I'm planning to fit some new plugs this weekend. Does anyone have any ideas on other things to look for - I thought perhaps an inlet manifold leak. I don't suspect anything as sinister as a head gasket as I'm not losing water & it was replace about 9 months ago following a cam belt failure & subsequent top end rebuild. Apart from the idling, she runs sweet as a nut. Read more
Sorry Dave, I read it several times & missed the coil reference! Thank you.
I know it's had a new temperature sender for the water temp gauge, so I assume that's OK. Seems better with the new plugs so I'll keep an eye on it.
I thinking of privately buying a C200 2L Manual 5D est to replace my ageing Volvo 240SE Est. The car is spotless inside and out but it has done 80k with a full SH. Any thoughts on this car and anything I should be looking for. Regards Peter Read more
I have been running C classes for about four years and
have noted with interest the number of very old ones still
looking good running well. Don,t be frightened by tales of expensive
repairs, many makes of cars can attract expensive repairs.
Well, I've repaired a lot of Mercs in my time (going back to the '70s) and although service parts are cheap, more major parts can be very expensive.
You see a lot of older Mercs in good order because the owner often has a lot of money tied up in the car and can't afford to dump it. Mercs are, of course, superb cars - but they do go wrong and need fixing from time to time. When that happens they can get expensive. For mid- late-1990's MB's there are plenty that have had head gasket failure at under 100k (failed head bolts) and plenty of W210 that have needed recon autobox (and you really don't want to know how much THAT costs!). Whining diffs are a long-standing Merc problem (usually when the output oil seals start to weep) and a factory recon is well over £1000, although you can get the job done for £400-500 elsewhere.
I've never been much of a Ford fan, but I have to admit that their range from 2000-on is looking very good (on all measures). I have to say that the late-model Mondeo gives the C-Class a damn good run for the money, and as a 'near new' buy from a supermarket is great buy.
Browse
Just a thought. My petrol Cavalier exhibited "odd" starting from cold similar to what you descibe for about 6 months. I started to think the starter switch on the end of the ignition barrel was worn or the starter motor or wiring in between could be at fault. Then one day the battery died. A new Delco battery from Vauxhall and the starting has been perfect ever since.