October 2004
Was browsing and stumbled on to this...
tinyurl.com/4kt5o
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Taking the current family transport into a dealership tomorrow for a part exchange valuation against a new XC90 I'm picking up on Friday.
Given the demand for these cars, no discount was expected or offered, although the salesaman did agree to PX the current car. He didn't view it at the time.
What would you offer for the following, on the basis that the dealer has no sales incentive whatsoever?
Saab 9000CSE, 1993, metallic green, fullish service history (mostly non Saab dealers), 161,000 miles. Small daughter has lovingly, but lightly, carved a 3" heart on the bonnet. A Corgi car minus the rubber tyres has made it's mark nearby. The other two children have ridden bicycles down the nearside of the vehicle over the years, cunningly disguised by touch up paint. A can of Neutrodol has, this very evening, disguised the accumulated effects of sick, sweat, ribena, yogurt, rotting fruit etc that have been experienced by the interior of the car over the last eleven years. Front foglight destroyed by SWMBO when a "low kerb hit the car". Oil weeping from seven points of the engine/gearbox.
Apart from that it's fine.
Remember, the dealer is under no pressure whatsover as he has a sale in the bag.
Your guess for PX value is?..........
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P E, virtual pat on the back for the closest guess.
£500. I was honestly expecting 200-300.
Just shows what a few hours work on the appearance of a car can do, as it was described a 'clean' (in both the motor trade and literal senses of the word), and comment was passed that I'd clearly looked after it.
Some of these threads are very timely, as I made sure the remaining tax wasn't part of the deal.
This car has been part of the family for nine years, but off to auction week after next. Sad to see it go.
I'm rebuilding my fathers Alfa 166 2.5 V6 24v after the cam belt broke.The bent valves have been replaced and the heads are now back on. I've purchased a set of cam timing jigs from Alfa, and I also have a copy of the electronic manual. Unfortunately I cannot find the numbering sequence of the cylinders anywhere. Standing infront of the engine, from the pulley end, I'm sure that the first cylinder on the bank to my left is No. 1 heading back on that bank to 2 and 3, but the order of 4,5 & 6 on the right bank eludes me.
I know on which places on the heads the cam timing jigs fit but not which jig in which place. The four jigs are numbered: 1825040/1 DX S 1CIL ; 1825040/2 DX S 1CIL ; 1825040/3 SX S 4CIL ; 1825040/4 SX A 6CIL respectively.
The first number sequence is the part number, I think that SX means "Sinistra" for the left head and DX "Dritto" for the right head.
The 1CIL, 4CIL and 6CIL must be cylinder numbers. And I assume that the "S" and "A" refer to Inlet and exhaust but I don't know which way round as I have found several translations for each.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Standing in front of the car looking at the engine the back left is No.1 then 2 then 3 (working left to right).
The front left cylinder is No 4 then 5 then 6 (working left to right).
Can't help on the jigs.
The rear n/s brake calliper can move up and down by about 3mm or so. It rummbles quite a lot over poor road surfaces.Ie. practically all B class roads in this country! It is a single piston type. The play seems to be where the two sliding pins enter their respective sockets on the caliper bracket. The car has a relatively low mileage. I replaced the pads on both rear wheels. The discs are in good condition. The original pads were fitted with shims and these were discarded by somebody,presumably because they would not fit the patterned brake pads. I used Lockheed Delphi pads, which do not have shims. I cant see that not having the backing shims on would cause the excessive play. Should I renew the sliders and caliper bracket? Perhaps I should buy the original Honda pads which come with the shims. Anyone had this? Mikey. Read more
I didn't mean the pins were rubber coated, but there was a rubber sleeve that sat in the holes in the calipers. Note. when I say rubber, it is more likely some harder substance.
Martin
Hi,
My 2004 galaxy TDi 130 Ghia has just been repaired after an accident. Now, every time that i drive over a bump, there is a noise coming from under the car, just under the gearstick, It sounds like a screw or something, I was wondering if anyone else had had this problem.
Thanks Read more
still not convinced about its looks but I was lucky enough to be invited to test drive the new discovery range,its very impressive on road holding and its performance off road is exellent Much quieter than the td5 ,the 6 cylinder 6 speed box manual does 70 at 2000 rpm and a very good gear change and the auto is well matched,the v8 petrol performance is superb ,on the little twisty road it was almost too powerful but on the dual carraigeway it has more go than anything else Ive tried .better seats, more leg room in the back and surely this will be a winner.has anyone else tried it yet or what do you think it of its looks Read more
The heart says 'yes' to the new Disco, but not the head!
Nice new economical V6 diesel - great - means we can make a bigger, heavier Disco!
Many 40+ tonne artics makes do with just one driven axle out of six. Their drive axle can take up to 11 tonnes, or around 25% of the vehicle's gross weight. That leaves 75% of the vehicle's weight carried by non-driven axles.
2 wheel drive cars carry something around 50%, usually a bit more, on their driven wheels. That goes down a bit if the car is heavily loaded. So is 4 wheel drive necessary on any car that is bought for road use? Probably it's useful if you tow a heavy caravan.
I had always intended to buy a 200TDi Disco to replace my old Land Rover, but then I discovered Tdi motoring VW style, as in 1.9 - say no more!
Cheers, Sofa Spud
Hello!
At the risk of being accused of only visiting the Back Room when I need something, I'd appreciate some opinions please!
On Wednesday night, when leaving a carpark, I wound the driver's window all the way down to put the token in the barrier. As I wound it back up it was really stiff and there was a terrible crunching and grinding sound coming from inside the door, near the windy thing (yes, they're fitness windows, not electric). It had been fine earlier, when entering the same carpark, so it's not a case of it not being used for a while and seizing up.
I noticed also that the door now goes 'clunk' at a certain point when opening/closing it, but can't say for definite whether it was doing this before the window went all dodgy.
It was too late to do anything about it when I got home, and it rained all day yesterday, so haven't been able to do anything or risk opening and closing the window again.
It's almost a year now since I finished arguing with the bodyshop I had issues with, and while I suspect it's something they haven't done properly, I can't face going back there again!
So... I'm thinking I might get my trusty Haynes manual out tomorrow and see if I can take the door apart and see what's making the window go funny. Just want some reassurance that this is something you can actually do, or alternatively, someone to tell me to take it to a garage instead!
Thanks! Read more
Hmmm... good job I didn't peel all the sticky stuff off then!
Just in case you thought that spending 'unlimited' cash on a car would fulfil your dreams, take a look at this:
cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=...1
The late Alan Clark, MP and motor fanatic, had one - I seem to remember he wasn't too happy with his either... Read more
And if we're unlucky NoWheels will be along in a minute
with a lot to say about Landies.
Sorry to disappoint, but I think Landies are brilliant machines.
However, some of the uses to which such specialised vehicles are put by their owners are, well, rather less brilliant ...
I'm currently driving a 2002 Alfa 156 2.0 jts, which I absolutely love, but it only averages about 34mpg (which I know isn't bad for 165bhp 2.0 car).
However, as I do about 20000 miles per year, and with another nipper on the way, I need to cut costs wherever possible. So, together with the insurance and the cost of servicing it, I've been told.. sorry dear.. we've agreed I should change it..
So I'm looking for a diesel. What does everyone recommend?
I'm looking between £7-8000. The main contenders are either..
Focus tdci (can afford a newer/lower milage one, but hate the interior)
Golf td (have to go for an older/higher milage one)
.. but I'll consider most, as long as they are in the 115 - 130bhp/50mpg bracket.. I'm also considering Leon, 307, Mondeo, Laguna..
Any suggestions/recommendations/cars I'm not thinking that I should be..?
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hmmm... despite only ever hearing very positive things about the Octavia, I'm still not sure I could own one (not sure if I'm a badge snob - I'd be happy with a Ford, and you don't get more common than that!). Maybe it's the name.. Pipkins, anybody?
I realise this is an irrational aversion that may mean I miss out on a decent value for money car.. I'll have to get some therapy for it.
I'm thinking it'll be a Focus or Mondeo. I've read elsewhere on here the earlier Mondeo TDCi's (which is probably what I'll have to go for) aren't all that reliable.. is that the case?
I don't wish to sound uncharitable, but there seems to an ever increasing number of posts for information that is readily available from the vehicles handbook - oil spec, tyre pressures and sizes etc.Is this really what the forum is for?
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\"Nothing less than 8 cylinders will do\" Read more
Eh? Manufacturers products - oil viscosity, tyre pressures, tyre sizes? I
don't understand.
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\"Nothing less than 8 cylinders will do\"
If you don't understand then post a question like us lesser mortals do. I see you've conveniently dropped the "etc." and changed the word "spec" to "viscosity" to make your retort to my answer sound more sensible. Now you are sounding uncharitable.
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Good isn't it? I particularly like the one in bright yellow with the 'Big Daddy seats'.
I wonder how many miles british truckers do in a year?