|
I had to do this on my MkI polo (1979 1.1GLS in Azoren Blau). Pretty straightforward but you will need to watch that membrane; they get brittle with time.
|
Thanks...
Hmmm, so there's actually some very real potential for me to break something, rather than just take it apart and put it back together again.
I feel a call to the garage coming on...
|
The membrane is just a plastic sheet that is glued/taped between the inside door panel and the door cavity. It's there to stop moisture bridging across into the car.
If you do tear it you can easily replace it with a sheet of polythene or even get a new one.
Go on, you know you can do this!
|
Go on, you know you can do this!
Ok Dad... if it ever stops raining here in the armpit of the midlands, I'll give it a go.
|
|
|
The membrane is just a plastic sheet that is glued/taped between the inside door panel and the door cavity. It's there to stop moisture bridging across into the car. If you do tear it you can easily replace it with a sheet of polythene or even get a new one.
Gaffertape is just as effective ;o)
|
|
|
|
|
You can do it. You need a couple of Phillips screwdrivers (#2 & #3........
Shouldn't the screwdriver be Posidriv (or Supadriv)?
The slots of Phillips head screws are tapered in both a radial direction and an axial direction, whereas the slots of Posidriv head screws are parallel in both directions. Using a Phillips screwdriver in a Posidriv screw will seriously damage the slots.
Phillips head screws dropped out of favour because the driver "cams out" of the slot as you apply a torque if the screw is tight. This action is even more pronounced if you use a Phillips driver in a Posidriv screw. There is no "cam-out" force with the correct combination of Posidriv driver and screw. I imagine that it was only the advent of new manufacturing methods that made it possible to produce the superior Posidriv shape.
Posidriv screws can be identified by the fact that there are (or should be) radial marks between on the end of the head, between the slots.
--
L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
|
Posidriv screws can be identified by the fact that there are (or should be) radial marks between on the end of the head, between the slots.
Correction ........"radial marks on the end of the head, between the slots."
--
L\'escargot by name, but not by nature.
|
|
|
>> You can do it. You need a couple of Phillips screwdrivers >> (#2 & #3........ Shouldn't the screwdriver be Posidriv (or Supadriv)? tapered in both a radial direction and an axial direction, whereas the slots of Posidriv head screws are parallel in both directions. There is no "cam-out" force with the correct combination of Posidriv driver and screw. >> Posidriv screws can be identified by the fact that there are (or should be) radial marks between on the end of the head, between the slots.
:::::Pologirls's head explodes:::::
|
:::::Pologirls's head explodes:::::
Nice one! I tend to use the point of my (only) kitchen knife for undoing lots of screws around both house and car....
|
|
|
>> >> You can do it. You need a couple of Phillips >> screwdrivers >> >> (#2 & #3........ >> >> Shouldn't the screwdriver be Posidriv (or Supadriv)? >> >> tapered in both a >> radial direction and an axial direction, whereas the slots of Posidriv >> head screws are parallel in both directions. >> >> There is no >> "cam-out" force with the correct combination of Posidriv driver and screw. >> >> Posidriv screws can be identified by the fact that there are >> (or should be) radial marks between on the end of the >> head, between the slots. :::::Pologirls's head explodes:::::
ROFPML!
|
|
|
|
Older Volkswagens use Phillips headed screws. I don't know about newer ones. A Phillips driver will fit into a Pozidrive recess. The reverse is not true. Using a Phillips screwdriver in a Pozidrive recess will not seriously damage the head.
|
If you're worried about damaging the waterproof membrane, don't be.
Keep the old one as a template and go along to Travis Perkins or another builder's merchant and ask for a small offcut of Damp Proof Membrane a similar size.
As for the rest of the bits, a trip to Mr Scrappy would surely suffice, however at the risk of sounding sexist, take a male friend of yours (preferably one that looks like he's just spend the weekend under his car) to make sure you get quoted a fair price. I have seen it time an time again. Chivelry is rarely found with car breakers. They see a kindly looking young lady and - "WOOSH" up the price goes!
All the best
Hugo
|
>>kindly looking young lady
Thank you to Hugo for that lovely description of me. I don't know whether to be more flattered by the "young", the "lady" or the "kindly looking", but given that you've never met me I'll settle for the "young"...just! :)
News from up here is that it's STILL raining, so Polo lives to fight another day!
|
maybe, just get a tin of that polyfoam can of expanding foam, and spray it in "job done" no more rattles !
and yes still raining in midlands @ 00:03
watch your fingers if taking off door trim, sometimes sharp edges on inside of door. but give it a whirl, u have nowt to lose :-)
|
I need a new excuse now - the sun is shining!
I may need to put the destruction off until after I've made peace with the PassatDriver... told him the clocks went back last night, not knowing he had somewhere he needed to be at 8:30 this morning. Oops!
|
I did it!
Well... WE did it. Passatdriver, typical man that he is, couldn't bear to watch and waded in and more or less took over, but I'm quite happy that I could have done it had he not been there, and at least it was him getting his hands dirty and not me!
Everything inside felt really dried out, so we gave it all a healthy dose of grease and it is a million times better now, just a little squeak instead of a nasty grinding and crunching. So I'm happy.
Another question though, before I start casting doubts on the workmanship of the people who put Polo back together again last year. Inside the door, after we had removed the plastic interior bit and the membrane, there are several large squares of a sticky, flexible, dark green material bonded to the metal in a few places. It's very sticky and has what I can only describe as a grid scored into it.
Anyone know if this is normal for what was described to me as a brand new door, or does it sound like it's actually the old door, hammered back out and strengthened with this flexible stuff?
Can of worms truly open I think!
Thanks!
|
The description you give of these bits of sticky plastic cound be found inside any new or old panel. These may be used for tooling of some sort when they manovre and store the door at the press and fabication shop.
This is not enough information on its own for me to condemn the repair shop.
You need to see inside the door where the bodyshop would not have painted it to gauge its condition. If there are signs of light surface rust at the bottom for example, how long have they been there etc.
H
|
Thanks Hugo, exactly what I wanted to hear!
To be honest, I don't think they would have dared put the old door back on! There was no rust at all on the door, and no sign that the membrane had been previously disturbed or that another one had been there before the present one.
|
|
Another question though, before I start casting doubts on the workmanship of the people who put Polo back together again last year. Inside the door, after we had removed the plastic interior bit and the membrane, there are several large squares of a sticky, flexible, dark green material bonded to the metal in a few places. It's very sticky and has what I can only describe as a grid scored into it.
PG,
This sounds a little like the squares of anti-resonance material that is often bonded to the insides of doors, bootlids and other large panels to reduce NVH levels. They usually take the form of a 3-4mm thick sticky blackish pad of a slightly soft bitumen like material.
StarGazer
|
there are several large squares of a sticky, flexible, dark green material bonded to the metal in a few places.
Indeed, these potential attractors of festering dampness and would be promoters of rust are also there to enhance that 'satisfying' Volkswagen* clunk as you close the door!
Volkswagen, of course would like people to believe that it is inherent solidity, and quality!
* Having said that, fair play to Volkswagen for;
a) for being the first to deal with sound quality issues, and turn them into a marketing opportunity
b) for only putting the stuff where it changes the vibration behaviour of the panel, rather than sticking it over the whole surface of the panel
number_cruncher
|
PoloGirl... don't want to worry, you, BUT...
I've just replaced the winder mechanism on my Golf (and, surprisingly, previously on a Passat, too...) Someone made a comment about the cable possibly having frayed. If it has, you may find that the greasing you've done is a temporary measure, and that the cable snaps at a very unhelpful time... for example, on the way out of the car park when it's raining. Without wishing to make you paranoid, keep listening to it carefully,and think about how hard you have to push to wind up and down and if you think it is getting worse, change it for a new one! You can guarantee it will break at the most inconvenient moment...
Tim{P}
|
Hmmm... good job I didn't peel all the sticky stuff off then!
|
|
|
|
|
|
