September 2004
Just wondered what you ended up with No Dosh
After reading your thread about v40?s
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=9160
I cant afford a decent V70
After my estate or not an estate thread.
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=2&t=25...4
I have decided to go for the £5K route of a car for 3-6 months.
But I need exactly what you were after 2 years ago
Also what was your list back then?
Cheers !
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I have a 96 306 turb derv with the gearbox from an N/A derv. i want to use the TD clutch but the difference in gearbox means the arm is pulled from the front of the engine bay rather than the back to operate the thust bearing. I need to know if the thrust bearing will still be pushed against the clutch assembly and if it will still mount up to the arm correctly, or if I can use the normal n/a thrust bearing with the td clutch assembly.
I already have both flywheels so that is not an issue. Read more
There are two types of clutches fitted (as you have seen).....I wouldn't advise mixing the two clutches and gearboxes.....unless you like lots of work!
Seriously, I have no idea if it is possible or if it would work.
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
What is the best synthetic oil to use for topping up my new Honda Accord diesel?
It hasn\'t used any oil yet - just over 3,000 miles - but I\'m off to France again next week and want to take some oil with me. I\'ve looked at all of the labels on the various oils, but none mention whether they are synthetic or not. Magnatec - just found out above that it\'s not synthetic - mentions synthetic engineering on the label, so I\'m a bit confused. Read more
Hi Robbie,
What does your handbook recommend?
I don't think they recommend any particular make. But find what spec they would recommend (like API XX or ACEA XX) and then find any major brand oil you want which falls in to that specification and the correct viscosity range.
Does anyone know of a good independent body shop that could repair 2 deep key scratches on my 7 month old Ka? I am in Bishop Auckland but can easily get to Durham, Sunderland or Newcastle.
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{Moved from classifieds to hopefully gain a larger audience. DD}
whats the easiest way to repair them.
currently have awful wind noise which makes motorway journeys a nightmare.
cheers. Read more
Trim is frighteningly expensive for most cars. I wanted a window trim (top of door outside) and ISTR it was 65 quid + vat for a bit of rubber 3 feet long. Eventually found one in a scrappy for a quid.
News rover and tata are in very critical talks in india.
rover want preice reduced, tata quite correctly are not budging and sticking to original agreement.
serves rover directors right for trying to sell a rug as a couch. (strange example i know!)
Surely a indica estate would sell in far greater numbers.
what price do MG Rover want to reduce it to? Read more
The L-Series diesel in the 400/45 is virtually bullet proof and can run to some very high miles with little, if any, problems..
I've seen some very high mileage ones and 200K plus should be no trouble at all provided they are well serviced and looked after.
I used to have a 220SDi, the same engine, that had 160,000 when I swapped it for my 214si as the clutch was on its way out (original) and at the time my mileage had dropped at the time and decided a change to petrol.
The unit is not the most refined when cold however runs smooth enough when warm and is surprisingly quick off the mark, whist still returning 55+ to the gallon, pretty much regardless of how you drive it...
BMW, in their infinite wisdom, try to make you buy their own brand of oil by grading the variants differently to all other oil brands (or so it seems to me).
Can anyone recommend what oil I should be putting in my 330d other than what BMW want me to buy?
Also, with the extended service intervals (20k plus for my usage), has anyone had any problems occuring between services, oil consumption etc? Read more
Lets look at engines that are really looked after properly to get a feel for sensible oil change intervals.
Aircraft/Helicopter piston engines .... oil change intervals are normally 25 hours (no filter) or 50 hours (with a filter).
Assuming 100mph average speed these equate to 2,500 or 5,000
mile oil changes.
The misconception is that: 'aircraft engines are highly stressed so oil needs changing more often'.
Not true a 5 litre aircraft engine is often rated at about 140 BHP (5 litre car engine 300BHP) the same aircraft/helicopter engine full throttle RPM is 2,450(car engine 6,000 to 8,000).
Conclusion = Honest John knows best, change your oil at 5,000 miles (7,000 miles tops).
Hi
I had a battery a year ago which decided to leak at two years old, spilling its acid into the battery tray and down the inner wing.
Anyhow, I cleaned it off and painted over, but the rust has come back. When I had the wheel-arch liners off I noticed the area had rusted through and appeared 'wet'. I assumed this was acid. I'm worried that if I don't get rid of it, the rust will spread and/or keep reappearing.
Any suggestions on how to neutralise this stuff?
Thanks
Mike Farrow Read more
Make a solution of bicarb and water and scrub the areas with a light brush.This should neutralise the acid.
GM is removing the Daewoo branding from the UK, new models will be called Chevrolets (like the rest of Europe). Read more
and a daewoo dealer recently told daewoo nubira shares the same
platform as the vectra - i luaghed but he was insistent.
any truth?
Did he mean that as a compliment??!
In all cars I have owned so far, the window seals acted as a "squeegy" when you wind down the window. So, if it was covered in raindrops and you wound it down and up again, the water was either removed or smeared out. The same applies to my 2001 Matiz and the rear windows of my 2004 Matiz.
However, the front windows of the new Matiz are electric and can lower completely inside the door and come up again with the water intact all over. Is this normal for electric windows? Everthing else on the car is immaculately put together so I am reluctant to decide it is a fault.
Daewoo told me to ask my dealer; the dealer said it is ok and that water is meant to go inside the door and out through the drain holes at the bottom. It sounds rather dubious to me. Any comments?
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Thanks - you are right. But the dealer is wrong in that he said that there was meant to be a gap, and that when I was washing the car the water would go in. Actually, when window is FULLY closed there is no gap, and it is watertight. As the first 1mm of downwards travel happens, the pane is pulled in about 2mm and the gap appears. Presumably this is to reduce friction for the electric motors, as the manual windows don't do this. It is very difficult to test, since you need a hand inside the car on the window control and your eyes on the outside of the car window - but as the window is wound back into place its last action is to pop out slightly and you can see the seal squashing against the glass. Dealer was obviously not aware of this. Should have known better than to doubt the build quality of this car which is 100% perfect - full marks to Daewoo!
Sorry, posts crossed.
The 156 has a very flexible seating position. I'm 5'6 and can get comfy, whilst a friend with a similar model is 6'3" and can also get along fine.
Certainly the car is very comfortable (avoid 17" wheels as they make the ride jittery). If you are doing up to 40,000 per year then I presume it will be mostly motorway, in which case the bane of the 156* shouldn't be a problem.
(*If used enthusiastically on the backroads you can get through suspension bushes in as little as 20,000 miles)