July 2004

daveyK_UK

noticed more and more - most manufactures are moving towards thin door window frames.
not only is this worse for security but alos increases potential wind noise in the cabin.

plus today being with a new golf, it didnt feel as well built or as strong as the old one. nor did it look as strong.
same with the new megane and scenic - looks very cheap and feels fragile.

anybody else got th same grip?
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Civic8

>>but bending the door frame down is noiseless

I think you mean bending the frame away from car.
Only answer really is for them to get caught.as for frame to be so strong.post before said it all.and agree with what RF said.
--
Was mech1

flatfour

Since i had my Saab 2.5 years ago i have moaned about the gearchange to my dealer, i've also moaned on here several times. The dealer rebuilt the box twice, plus so say did numerous adjustments, they told me they had also changed the clutch. Now at 93000 i'm still having problems, took it to an Hulins in Gloucester an independant, they said the clutch neede replacing hence the feel of the gearbox, I told them it had been changed by the main dealer at 58000, they were still sure it was the clutch. So they took it out, the pressure plate was very rusty, the bearing was gummed up with dirt and the whole thing was in a worse condition than the basket case i have in my garage, they also notices a ball joint on the track arm was nearly gone, really sloppy, i'd been complaining about a wobble to the main agent and they told me i needed a new drive shaft. ulins took the drive shafts out showed me there was no wear, no play when put back into position. Result. purfect gear changes, no steering wobble. Thankyou Hulins, address on directories. Read more

steve

I need to remove n/s headlamp complete assy from 1999V A6 saloon. Two bolts on top but this does not free it - how do i get it out?
PS AUDI dealer unwilling to answer question - told me to look on website where I can register to buy the workshop manual (I think that is what it is)
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orack

Third screw is down the hole in the wing chanel,same star drive but you need a long screwdriver

garyweal

I am in the process of buying a Mondeo from Showrooms4cars,i got a good deal but was just wondering if anyone else had used this company and could tell me if they were reputable,thanks Read more

Dogbreath2

Gary let me know how you get on. I would be interested to hear your experience. Are you not worried about the depreciation on the Ford? Wouldn't a year old Accourd tourer be a safer bet?

the conductor

hi have a pug 406 2.0 coupe w reg and idles badly.
have been told by pug dealer that it need £600 worth of cam followers changing to correct bad idle?
anyone else had this ?
rich Read more

BobC

Is the the idling rough or the idle speed variable (idle revs sometimes higher / lower than normal or hunting up and down)? If the latter, it could be caused by a worn out idle stepper motor. It is usually only held in place by two screws and can easily be removed to check its condition. The cone and mechanism wear, preventing the ECU from controlling the idle correctly.

digitdemon

Hope anyone can help.

My sisters got a Renualt Scenic 1.6 1998 and has recently been having problems starting it intermittenly. I was with her this morning and the problem was worse than ever, couldn't start for about 5 minutes. I lifted bonnet to have a look and listen and nothing much was happening apart from it turning over fine, I thought it might either be no spark or no fuel getting through.  After a few more attempts we gave it one more go. On this occasion there was what sounded like a squirt of fuel, or similar sound just prior tot the engine turning over, and bamm it started!

Can anyone tell me if this sounds electrical or a dodgy fuel pump etc. etc.

All help greatly appreciated.

Cheers. Read more

Peter D

Try Eurocarparts.co.uk

Question Wankel oil type
Sprice

i remember reading once that rotary engines should only use mineral oil, not synthetic. Is this correct, and if so, why?! Read more

Sprice

Ok thanks

BazzaBear {P}

Yesterday, as I was driving home, for a bit of a change I was in the left of two lanes joining a roundabout, and the person in the right hand lane cut across me(usually happens when I'm, in the inside lane), had I not been hanging back in the general expectation of something daft happening I would have a lovely dent now.
This has got me to thinking:
The reason I wasn't in a crash is because I was driving defensively, keeping extra space between me and other vehicles in case one of them did something idiotic.
Now I pretty much always drive like this, because I have to. If I didn't I reckon I'd be in at least one crash (albeit minor ones) a week. people cut corners, cross white lines, wander from lane to lane, all sorts.

Now there are lots of other people out there who also don't have crashes every week, so does that mean that we all drive defensively? Do you all find yourself looking out for the next p****** trying to insert his car into yours?
I am by no means the perfect driver, but the unthinking idiocy that you see going on around you all the time is quite breathtaking when you stop to think about it.
As a gut reaction to it, I've always thought to myself that 'most' of the people on the road shouldn't be there, they're dangerous, but following my new defensive driving theory I suppose it makes sense to think that there are a small minority of these 'bad drivers' (but obviously you tend to notice them a lot more than the safe ones). So this type of traffic prangs come about either when two of them meet, so they're not being protected from themselves by a defensive driver, or a defensive driver makes an honest mistake, slips, blinks at the wrong time, whatever.

Sorry if this isn't very cohesive, I'm basically just thinking aloud here, but I thought it'd be interesting to hear the backrooms views on the matter. Read more

NowWheels

bazzabear, you're right -- I entirely misread it. Sorry arthurdent!

Doug.p

Hi guys. any1 know wot the mod is for gettin rid of the top end speed limiter on the prelude imports???
Any ideas how much n where to go get it done ????
Cheers Read more

Doug.p

ok nice 1 fanx....

greg

Hi

I need new front discs and pads all round on my 98 306 xsi (2.0 16v). I would like my braking performance to be better so what would anyone suggest I get? I drive normally - that is to say no track days, no particularly frequent late braking - just normal road use.

Disc-wise I will go for the same plain ventilated design I have now, but what make?

I have considered EBC greenstuff and Mintex 1144 pads which appear to be for 'fast road' use. I have read that these may not feel any different from standard pads until they have some heat in them, so is there any point in me spending the extra on them? I shan't be doing any frequent 80 - 0 stops.

I have also considered standard black EBC pads. I wonder if these are the same as OEM pads, or will they offer any improvement?

Finally, as my pads and front discs are on their way out, will new standard ones (once bedded in) feel better anyway?

Thanks in advance..

Greg Read more

Cyd

Maybe there's some variability from disc to disc. However all pads also wear out discs too, so I suggest this is a price worth paying for the improved braking.

I had Mintex 1144 on my Rover prior to the Greenstuffs. Both worked fine from cold, neither were harsh on the discs. However the Greenstuffs give a more progressive feel and better pull up overall. The Greenstuffs are also more resistant to fade when hot. Having spoken to EBC, they recommend Red Stuff for my car due to its weight - these are kinder to the disc in that they take more of the heat away from the disc surface, thus reducing the risk of warpage (a problem on my motor)

I would think that on a Pug you are less likely to experiance fade than on my Rover, due to the lighter weight car.

Yes, the dust free aspect is a big bonus. I hardly ever have to clean my alloys anymore and when I do it's very easy.