January 2004
One of the things I like about SWMBO's 306 1.8 SR Sedan is the wonderfully direct steering and fluid body control. Quite outstanding for an otherwise pretty ordinary device. (Another thing has been the amazingly low running costs and absolute reliablity, but that's incidental here)
Driving it the other day however, I became convinced that it's become far more road surface sensitive than before.
For example, accelerating hard in third gear to overtake another car, on passing over the crown of the (very familiar to me) road, the Pug positively leapt towards the right hand edge of the road. Also, under braking on rutted roads, it has started to tramline where previously the skinny 165 tyres took no notice.
All four tyre pressures are normal, all four tyres have perfect wear patterns, and no brake is binding.
The only thing I can think of is that nearly ten years from new (though only 22k miles), suspension bushes or joints are wearing.
Other than a very tiny clunk when cresting the 1" ridge in to our garage, the suspension is silent, but does any Pug expert Backroomer have a tip for me to check? (Yes I will use axle stands)
Many thanks as always.
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Afternoon all
The brother's 1990 sierra (1.8 cvh) wouldn't start last night; instead fo turning the engine over, all the starter does is spin. Taken it off today, tested it and seems to work (spins and the toothed gear moves out). Have also tried another good starter motor and still get nothing beyond the starter itself spinning. The solenoid can be heard clicking as it should, have connected another battery to eliminate a power problem and am running out of ideas. The ring gear on the flywheel looks alright, tried turning the engine over by hand to get onto a different bit of the flywheel, and am still left with the impression that the motor is not engaging with the ring gear. Erm, don't know why though. Ideas, better yet solutions accepted gratefully.
Thanks all Read more
Poor engine earth, or battery earth?
Following Blue's problems and an impending no-fault claim on my behalf, I was wondering why repairers seem able to charge 2 different rates - one for private repairs and one for the insurance companies. Why do the insurance companies not raise a finger to stop this happening. Afterall the cost gets pushed onto their customers in the form of higher premiums.
I cannot see any justification in charging higher prices and why no one seems to question this practice. Perhaps someone could enlighten me? Read more
It is certainly common knowledge that when one asks a repairer for a quote, the first question is 'is it an insurance job?'. But even when it is (as it was for me last July) there may still be room for flexibility. I drove the damaged car to the repair shop for an estimate, which included new wing and screen, and 2 front doors which had suffered slight damage to leading edges. I told him I was happy for the old ones to be filled and painted as they still closed perfectly. This was done - but I don't know whether the original estimate was the one accepted by the ins.co. If it was I guess the repairer may have profited somewhat, but as he did me a few small fixes at the same time, I was happy!
Has any body done independent tests that agree that Optimax goes further per gallon?
(That does not say 'has anybody done tests'!) Read more
I think we've been around this one quite recently.
and many other times!!
I think the answer is 'no'.
>>
google search for:
millers oil optimax test
will bring up pdf file. don't know if thats what you want.
If fact if you
go to their website there is not much technical stuff on
Optimax at all (there is various 'marketing spiel' about it 'flowing
more smoothly' and 'burning more quickly'). I did e-mail the
Shell technical dept. for more detailed technical info but they have
yet to respond......
as are many others. their expert who really seems to be just a public relations guru.
he/she only answers bland questions from non-tech people.
any challenging stuff goes unaswered for months if ever.
imo use optimax if your car requires superunleaded but not because of the marketing hype.
mine does.
i fill up superunleaded at sainsbury's or or shell or texaco as they are cheaper.
bpultimate is most expensive in my neck of woods.
tesco et al don't sem do super.
One of the features of my recently acquired '88 Nova is dim dip headlights. What are the legal restrictions on the use of dim dip and do backroomers think that it should be used in today's traffic conditions? Read more
Thanks for all the replies, esp Peter D's, very informative!
On coming to halt my Honda Civic (1995 1.6 LS) has been applying the ABS (i.e. brake pedal reverberating hard). At all other times the braking is A1. The local garage diagnosed a leaking master brake cylinder, but a new one has made no difference. The ABS light is now permanently on. Any ideas what this might be?
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SnowyHonda
The 'HTH' at the end of my message meant 'hope that helps' - its not my initials!
Glad to help out anyway - keep the cash in your pocket rather than give it to the Honda dealer!
About a year ago I was servicing our old Fiesta, and decided in my wisdom to buy a 25 litre drum of oil, and another of anti-freeze, thinking i was being economic, as they were pretty good value compared to buying 5 litres of each. Thing is, a year later they're still both about 2/3 full! I'm planning to service my new car in the next week or two, but am a bit concerned whether the fluids will have degraded in any way? Any ideas? Read more
Good thinking, DL. I can't even put it in SWMBO's Clio - that doesn't use oil either!
Hello
I'm considering buying a used XK8, either convertible or coupe, with a budget of around £25,000. Does anyone have any advice, "do's or dont's", or generally want to add to my database of knowledge on the topic. Comments from existing owners particularly welcome.
Kind regards
KD
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I've write locked this thread to avoid repetition, as you have already previously asked this question yesterday - which can be found here:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=19060
--
Dynamic Dave
Back Room Moderator
mailto:dave_moderator@honestjohn.co.uk
My 3 year old TDdi which has covered 74K miles has started continually squeaking from under the bonnet, audible from the drivers seat. It started only doing this when the engine was cold, the outside temperature was cold and or wet - going when the engine reached temperature. It now seems to do it continually - loudest when first starting. I've checked all the belts could it be the water pump? If so could it suddenly give up? Read more
Mine will also do a small squeak when turning the engine over during starting in the cold and wet - I thought it might be an engine or exhast mounting I shall have to check at the next service.
An old escort I had once had a gradually worsening squeak from cold or wet I eventually traced it to a loose bolt in the union clamp between the mid and front sections of the exhaust - it's probably worth going round and making sure that everythings tight.
My daughter has a 1992 1.4RT with single point fuel injection. It has done 150,000 miles and will be replaced in 2 months. She now lives away from home so all descriptions are verbal. She says that the car is juddering as it is driven and almost stalls when slowing down. The AA patrolman has driven the car and said that engine is OK but he thought that the engine mounts were broken, he then rocked the engine and said they were OK. He was now stumped and thought it may be the clutch.
My thoughts are; could it be the injector? for some time the idle has been uneven, which I believe is a sympton of a dirty injector. I understand that the proper way to clean is by ultrasonics but could a good squirt with carb cleaner improve the situation?
Does anyone know of a good garage in the Bournmouth/Weymouth areas that could help? also have you an idea of cost, as she does not want to throw money at it, whilst waiting for her new car.
Thanks in advance of your help. Read more
Thanks for your prompt reply. No, he did not mention leads, which could be likely as they have not been replaced since she bought the car about 70,000 miles ago. The clutch was replaced just prior to her purchase. I am relieved that the replies are pointing to ignition, relatively cheap and easy to replace, unlike a clutch!
Browse
Okay, to close the loop, and thereby thank those who tried to help:
Yesterday I had the Pug looked at by a very thorough Peugeot specialist. The brief was to try and establish why the car had gone from having wonderfully lithe and fluid handling, to having a floaty state of road camber and power application nervousness, as well as to give it a pre-MOT once over (or once 'under', actually!) whilst up in the air.
What he found was embarrassing!
I never trust garage tyre pressure gauges, and instead use an expensive rotary gauge from my motor racing days. It appears, however, that it's actually seen better days... Whereas I thought that the car had been running at 33 psi, it had in fact been running at 25 psi. Absolutely nothing else was wrong, and all suspension bushes, bolts, bearings, or whatever are in full rude health!
With properly inflated tyres, the car is now back to its pin-sharp, but nice and supple, former self. No floating, no wallowing, no vagueness, no road camber over-sensitivity, no power over-sensitivity. All for the want of 8 psi! I wish the solution to every motoring problem was so inexpensive!
BTW, the minor clonk that occasionally happens on moving off from rest, especially before and after using reverse gear, has been traced to very slight driveshaft wear. Not enough to worry about yet.