October 2003
I've got a loan of a 130 hp diesel Passat in place of my 100 hp one. The difference in performance is astonishing with, to me, a violent shove in the back from 2 - 3000 revs.
Not wanting to upgrade my car, but what makes such a difference to an outwardly similar engine? Read more
I've just taken delivery of a new Toyota Avensis T3-x Diesel as my new company car. So far (2 days) I'm very pleased with it (changed from a VW Passat TDI Sport - 115bhp), but am looking for advice on the following:
1. What is the best way to run the car in? Do I need to run it in? Looking to get good mpg and reasonable performance in the long run.
2. The fuel guage looks to be a bit eratic - doesn't move for ages, then drops very quickly. The VW guage was always rock steady and very reliable.
3. Is there a way to reset the 'average mpg' on the computer? So far I can only work out that it resets itself when I refuel the car.
So far I've covered 300 miles in the car and although it doesn't perform like my old VW, it is a nice drive with great build quality.
Regards,
John Read more
The fuel guage on the Yaris I have on loan at the moment is ridiculous. The car has a fuel computer with a range feature too. The fuel guage looks like a series of LED's and reads full until the range is down to about 90 miles before it drops!! Mad.
For running in the diesel see Honest John's FAQ's for some sensible advice.
Andy
Hi I have recently bought a 1995 Golf III VR6 highline, I am very happy with it except its little starting problem.
The car starts first time every time on a cold start, but if you were to take the revs to about 4rpm the engine dies. If you re-start the engine it will then only fire on a few cylinders, the car shakes and complains! This happens when the car is driven or just idle. If you continue to drive car it disappears after about 3 mins and problem only reoccurs after the car has sat for about 4 hours. I can replicate this problem every time!
I have had VW and other specialists run diag but cannot find a problem. I have replaced fuel filter HT leads and spark plugs. I am not quiet sure what else to check as I do not want to pay VW £70 an hour to test all the electrics!
Can anyone give me some pointers??
Read more
I'm a one-trick pony on problems like this, but before you try anything more expensive, spend a few quid on a bottle of VW's own fuel additive (part number G 001 700 03) and see if that helps you as much as it has me in the past. I run a VR6 Highline and have never suffered from the problem you describe.
I am looking to see if anyone knows what sort of price a 2001 Y plate Landcruiser Colorado GX Auto should get direct at auction.
The Vehicle is white with 158 000 miles on the clock.
Looking at Parker's guide it suggests about £14k for a retail with retail mileage , but given the fact of the higher than standard mileage and the extra holes and poor paintwork likely. Is a fair estimate about 50% of the poor retail price.
A quick response would be appreciated as the vehicle in question is going through leominster car auctions tommorrow night. Read more
I would guess,subject to condition etc,that around £8,000 would buy it,intresting to know though.
Not seen too much TV lately due to being busy and the idiot box being monopolised by various Fame Academy addicts. (Is that programme tedious or what?)
However considering the adverse comments earlier (last series?) where South Yorks Met Police did not cover themselves in glory I thought this was generally a better effort. Well done SYMP, especially seeing as more hands free comms in place, albeit installation a bit dodgy in places, but credit where it's due chaps.
Beat car in the ditch! Bet that cost a few cuppas and sticky buns in the canteen.
As for those dozy women with kiddie in pushchair intending to walk in the dark on a pedestrian barred road from Sheffield to Doncaster!
Accident inv'n on the Manor. "Justice with Courage" in action Read more
Buzbee
I know what you're up against. Seen yesterday morning on the way to work: 1 woman in elderly Renault estate car (8 seater, not an Espace)carrying 5 children to school plus one pre-school toddler. Not a single one, adult or child, belted up.
I depair.
Terry
Hi all, car is a 2.oL 16v omega auto box. 89K on clock.
When I slow down I get a mechanical clunk sound. It's either when changing from 3rd to 2nd, or from 2nd to 1st during braking. Access is dismal underneath, even so I wouldn't know what to check 1st. Anyone any ideas? Hope I don't need a new gearbox!
Cheers,
Pete
Read more
Happyvaux,
Slightly off topic. Your other thread about tappet noise. I have the same problem with a leaking exhaust manifold gasket and broken stud.
You mentioned that you found someone local to repair. Can you say who and where. Main dealer is way to expensive to repair.
Tx!
David
My Toyota Supra (3.0i auto) recently died and being temporarily short of funds I picked up a Nissan Silvia (1.8 turbo auto) to tide me over.
Lovely car as it happens and two members of my family have already demanded first refusal when I come to sell it but when I swopped over the insurance they told me that the Nissan was Group 30! I didn't even know group 30 existed! The Supra was Group 16. Anyway the cost to transfer was not excessive and the alternative was canceling the policy and taking out a new one (very expensive) so the deed was done.
Today I had some spare time so I looked up the insurance groups and Esure rates both cars the same (16). So why does my insurer (Admiral) rate them differently? Do all insurers have standard ratings or do they create their own? If so why are Esure and Admiral so wildly different? Is it because Admiral have insured a bunch of nutters who owned these cars and Esure have insured a bunch of angels who owned these cars?
Curious. If anyone knows I would be grateful.
For me I expect that come renewal time I won't be renewing with Admiral (if I still own the car), OR (I suspect) that when I tell them that someone else quotes a much lower price the rating/premium will suddenly drop.
As a final note, I always insured with Admiral because their prices for a Supra where generally half of everyone elses. Curiouser still. Read more
Thanks DVD appreciate that.
Just proves that Admiral don't like these cars. Curious.
When I resolve my clutch problems I want to increase the torque on my 2.3 SE Turbo in order to improve it\'s towing ability.
Do I have any options other than \'chipping\' it ?
Which companies provide the best solutions ?
Ta !
--
Bob
Life\'s too important to take seriously !
Read more
On my old Saab 900 turbo I could wind open the wastegate nut with a 17mm spanner. There wasn't much difference as I accelerated in forst gear, floored it in second and it started to wheelspin at about 35mph.
I wound it straight back in. Cheap, but not very controlled.
Browse
.jpg)
Both CR and PD engines use electronically controlled staged injection in order to reduce engine noise and minimise emissions. The difference is in the way the fuel is pressurised. A CR engine uses a common pipe that feeds all the injectors (the common rail!), and is pressurised to extremely high pressure (like 1600 bar) by a pump driven by the cam belt. On a PD engine the high pressure (not sure of the figure, but I'd expect similar to CR) is generated at the injector by extra cams on the cam shaft (hence the the need for such high-spec oils in these engines, as this cam generates phenomenal shear forces).
RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....