October 2003
I've been a long-time reader of the forum and really enjoy it. But this is my first post and, as my mechanical knowledge is rubbish, apologies in advance for the idiot questions!
My Golf Mk IV has been running really well since I bought it 3 years ago and there's only 28,000 miles on it. I have decided that I'm going to keep it for at least another 2 years - it would seem almost like a crime to give the car to someone else.
I have looked after it well, changing the oil every 6K as rcommended by HJ, and will be dropping it in for a service this week. Before I go in I would like to know if there is anything I should ask to be looked at specifically:
- Brakes: The brakes are making a rubbing noise recently. Are the pads up for a change? Or the discs?
- Are there any other major shocks I should expect - e.g. timing belt change.
Thanks for reading,
DF Read more
Hi
I have an 2001 Almera
Last night somebody pointed out to me there is a difference of about an inch in the gap between wheel and wheel arch, between the left and right wheels. The left side gap is noticeably smaller
I had the wheels aligned the day before, are the shocks gone on that side, or is it something to do with the alignment
Thanks
J Read more
I'm sorry but I don't know the steering or suspension set-up on your car so can't answer your questions in any detail. However broken or worn suspension mountings do often cause steering vibrations, and I wouldn't be surprised if a broken spring could do likewise.
I think you need someone who knows his way around cars to take a look at it fairly soon as this is one of those things that is very hard to diagnose unseen. A broken mounting or spring (if this IS the cause, and it may well not be) shouldn't be horrendously expensive to put right.
By the way, thanks for not jumping on me re: my pedanticism!
I was giving my Nissan QX an oil and filter change today. Its an all-alloy V6 with 4 chain-driven cams. Very nicely laid out and dead easy to work on.
There is one strange peculiarity though. On the front slam-panel there is a warning sticker which states "Never refill engine oil with oil level indicator removed". By 'oil level indicator' they mean dipstick. This warning in repeated in the owners manual.
I have been working on cars, both personally and 'professionally' since the early 1970's and have never come across this before. Why shouldn't the oil be filled with the dipstck removed? It is just and ordinary dipstick and pokes down into the sump in the normal way.
Can anyone suggest an explanation - its important enough for them to fit a warning sticker about it? What happens if I *do* refill with the dipstick removed? Read more
.........Often purely down to the poor design of the filler neck!
When trying to put a value on used cars, where does one start?
Having tried Parkers, and What Car there is a massive difference between the two, which tends to be more realistic?
Of course there is Glasses guide but I always assumed that was a traders pricing tool.
As always any thoughts/advice appreciated.
Regards
Steve Read more
Your car is worth what someone will pay for it. To find out what someone is likely to pay for it, see what others are selling similar cars for by looking in Autotrader in your area. If prices seem to be fairly consistent for a particular model, that's the going rate. If prices seem to vary widely, it means people are having trouble shifting them, and only the cheapest ones are selling.
HELP!!!! My 2 litre non turbo 98 legacy has developed an \'intermittent\' problem. It simply dies at any revs, any temperature, any time. The \'check engine light comes on, the engine stops. It will restart after several attempts, run for 1 mile or 50, and stop again. We\'ve checked for spark, fuel and replaced the \'top dead centre pickup\' (whatever that is!) cleaned everything with no success. It was suggested I check the fuel pump relay, but where is it?
ANY suggestions would be welcome,it\'s getting dodgy on busy Mways!
Thanks
Read more
On the front bumper, the plate that covers the towing eye has come off somewhere down the A12. The thing has never fitted properly since it was towed and now has been lost does anyone know if it is possible to get a spare from anywhere as a scrapyard wants to sell the whole bumper! Read more
There are about 4 versions of this flap, so make sure you get the right one! They are available from the dealer as a spare, pre-primed or black, or for a used one, try allvox
www.allvox.co.uk/
Hi all,
I currently drive a '99 'S' Focus 1.8 petrol which I've had since Jan 2001 and which has on the whole been reliable and nice to own.
I am thinking of downsizing to a brand new Renault Clio 1.6 16V Dynamique+ 3dr, and have seen the Clio on offer as low as £8499. The reason for me downsizing is basically that I rarely carry back seat passengers and I want something more nippy and manouverable. :-)
I would stick with Ford but I don't like the new Fiesta.
I will of course be test driving a Clio but I would welcome feedback from current new shape Clio owners or anyone with a constructive opinion of my proposed change.
Thanks in advance.
GC
Read more
>>I'd say....go for it! - at that price it's practically a disposable<<
Disposable at £8.5K!!?? I wish I was that rich.
Read HJ's thoughts on Renault, and then stick with Ford.
hi every1
i have a vreg mondeo with a tyre size of 185/65/14 but the spare is 195/60/15 for some unknown reason.i have noticed with the mk2 mondeo that the norm tyre size is 195/60/15.i have a new set of this size tyre and wanderd if i can safely replace the 185/65/14 with the bigger tyre to them wheels.
thanx Read more
And vice versa.
I have noticed that Mercedes use CDI, what is this i know that TDI is turbo Diesel Injection but what is CDI
Well look at that Read more
With bikes, CDI used to be Capacitor (or was it Capacitive?) Discharge Ignition.
... but that's probably irrelavant in this context, I throw it in just to muddy the water.
I bought my wife an Audi A4 1.8 saloon 1995 (non turbo) earlier this year. It is a very nice car but has one annoying fault that is getting worse and I cannot understand it. It starts well from cold but when warm may start and run for a few seconds and then cut out. When it gets hot it is worse and it may take several attempts and several minutes before it stays running. It always starts but initially cuts out after a few seconds. When the engine has run for a minute or so without cutting out it will keep going until turned off again. The only other odd thing is that when changing gear after lifting the foot off the accelerator the revs rise slightly before dropping. Any suggestions gratefully received. Read more
Thank you Enginekiller, The car has continued with the fault and was given to my daughter over two years ago, she just puts up with it as the cost of sorting it is likely to be prohibitive, also her driving ability and lack of maintenance is such that it may not be long before it is no longer driveable, it was, however, a very good car and very pleasant to drive. Have moved on to A6 V6 tdi problems now. Morris 1000's were so easy. Regards, Michael
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Hi DF
A couple of points to raise in reply to your "idiot questions" (lol.
I assume it is over 3 years old and out of warranty ....if not spend nothing except servicing until then.
We have an X reg 1.6 Golf I will detail the work carried out since its 30,000 mile service (March 2003).
A couple of weeks past its 30,000 mile service the timing belt went and the car required a new head. Fortunately this was all carried out under warranty otherwise it would have been a 4 figure bill. I would advise you get this done before 40,000 miles if not sooner. Honest John recommends this in all his columns regardless of what the manufacturer says! And replace tensioners etc at the same time.
40,000 mile service (August 2003)
The garage wanted to:
Replace a dented catalytic converter at a cost of £800.
Replace 3 tyres @ £66/each.
New rear discs and pads all round.
I refused the cat and tyres.
Since then replaced the tyres at a cost of £35/each
The MOT was due Oct 24 I have done it early in anticipation of having to buy a new cat. It sailed through without a problem.
Getting back to the service the bill was £400 for a 40k service and rear discs plus pads all round.
The car will never go back to a main dealer now that it is out of warranty they are an absolute ripoff.
But my other half is expecting and I will still be having the car serviced regularly as we need a reliable car.
PS Does anyone else have problems with Golf's bottoming out (the cat's problem) and we also have one at work that is on its 3rd sump!!!