October 2003
You may recall previous threads about motorcycles and scooters in London parking on the pavement and covering their numberplates so a ticket can not be issued.
It appears the latest round in this war is that the ticket is being issued on the VIN number.
So presumably that will have to covered as well now... Read more
If anyone knows the following I would be grateful:
1. Prior to which dates can a car have only seatbelts in the front? and prior to which dates can you have no seatbelts at all?
2. From what date did the paint on cars compulsorily change to water based?
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It's also true that the mercury amalgam used is nicely inert in your mouth and does no harm.
I had this job done on my Discovery 2 years and 12K miles ago, and now it needs doing again for the MOT. Have I been ripped off? Be interested in your thoughts, thanks. Read more
Perhaps the rubber boot got damaged when it was fitted by a ham-fisted techy on bonus?
.......Just thinkin' aloud!
Hi everyone,any ideas on the location/details of above club in Dorset area.I live in the Poole area and have searched high and low for some like minded people or dare I say is anyone intrested in arranging something. Loads of clubs up North and Sussex way but appears to be none down.
Failing that,does anyone know of a local club that caters for all types of vehicle.
Hope you can help. Read more
RE '96 Omega 2.5 V6 petrol, manual.
I think I may have got my numbers transposed when making a note of where the 6 plug leads go on the DIS module.
Anyone out there confirm where they actually go? (from the viewpoint of lifting bonnet, standing and looking in to engine bay, with DIS unit at right rear of engine)
If there are 2 rows of 3 sockets, the top row by the windscreen if you see what I mean, and the 2nd row nearer the engine, is the order for them as below?
WINDSCREEN
row 1: (LH) 5:3:1 (RH)
row 2: (LH) 6:4:2 (RH)
ENGINE
Cheers
KM Read more
Just for the record, this is the correct order below
WINDSCREEN
row 1: (LH) 5:3:1 (RH)-this row is def correct!
row 2: (LH) 2:6:4 (RH)
ENGINE
I had no's 4&6 wrong way around!
I have a 92J Nissan Micra 1.0 (K10 series) with 130,000 miles on the clock and it's in a bad way. I'm currantly doing a mechanics Diploma at college and im wanting to try out my skills on this car. But i have seen that there is an asbestos warning in the bonnet and i don't want to go anywhere near it until i know where the asbesos is on the car. I have rang Nissan and they couldn't tell me where the asbestos is. I understand it could be one of three places perhaps. The clutch, brakes pads or the bulkhead. Could you please tell me where the asbestos is so i can crack on with sorting this car out? Any ideas? Thanks.
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I would think it highly unlikely that the car has original (asbestos-base) pads at 130k ! Get a can of brake cleaner to wash the brake dust off onto an old cloth with (I know a 'Pound Shop' what you can get a can for....£1 ! - otherwise try local factors). So long as you don't blow the dust around too much you'll be OK. My dad used to blow it off with an airline so most of the workshop was covered in a layer of the stuff.
A member of the Triumph 2000 Register has reported that his car has been suffering intermittent misfiring and multiple condenser failures, in one instance needing RAC recovery.
Replacing the coil, points and king lead failed to cure the problem and it was eventually found that the engine had been fitted with a 4-cyl rotor arm instead of the correct 6-cyl one and this was causing excess arcing which was destroying other ignition components.
The incorrect 4-cyl rotor arm had been bought from Halfords where the parts list is said to wrongly show it as correct for the 6-cyl Triumph. Apparently they no longer sell the correct 6-cyl rotor arm. I expect this problem also applies to any other six cylinder car with Lucas ignition. Read more
Most distributors have at most 15 deg. of mechanical advance and 10 deg. of vacuum.The mechanical advance is roughly proportional to rpm.The vacuum varies between 0 & 12 ins. Hg.The only time when you will get large quantities of advance(caused by maximum mechanical and vacuum advance) is on the overun at high engine rpm. when the spark is not critical;normal running will be comfortably within the range of the rotor arm.Modern engines with minute combustion chambers do not need large amounts of advance;the flame travel in the chamber is almost instantaneous.
Has anyone else noticed how bright the dipped headlights on new BMWs are , I've been dazzled on several occasions, and personally think they're dangerous. Anyone know why , or what they're using now ? Read more
Students eh? Too much time etc etc
Good on him - looks the part too!
I have a late 1994 Audi 80 1.9 TdI.
I suspect there may be a problem with the turbo. Under acceleration in 1st and 2nd, it will rev freely to about 5000 rpm (redlined at 5200), of course like any turbo delivering the max power at about 2500-3000.
However in 3rd and 4th the power stops at 4100 - just suddenly as if there is some kind of regulator or cut out. Actually quite nasty as the first time it happened I was blatting up a hill on a motorway passing some slower vehicles and suddenly, no more power! The guy behind me must have thought 'what a wally'!It keeps going but there is no more acceleration. No doubt someone will say I should have changed up before hand, but there is still, in my opinion a problem.
However as this is my first Turbo diesel (in thirty years of motoring) I am a bit wet behind the ears on this particular topic.
I've found some contributions elesehere in the forum about sitcking turbos etc, but as mine seems to work perfectly well other than the symptoms above, I think this is an unrelated problem.
I'd be really grateful for any help here!
Thanks Read more
I'd have a look at the EGR valve, myself.
Often, the cheapest way to disable it is to make two steel 'gaskets' in order to isolate the valve. I have done this twice on 80 TDI's with startling results.
The AMM on the 80 TDi was/is a reliable unit, not like the Bosch ones fitted to later 110 engines. I have the Pierburg AMM on my A4, thankfully - these don't give trouble.
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
Normally if I need to replace fixed brake lines I get one made up (in copper) at the local motor factors. Last time I looked though I saw cupro-nickel pipe for the same purpose. What's the difference? I thought the addition of nickel would be to prevent corrosion, but copper doesn't, so I'm not sure I see the reason for a copper-nickel mix. But it is slightly more expensive, so it must be better. Question is, why?
Thanks in advance for the answer. Read more
The 'copper' pipes you are buying are almost certainly not pure copper anyway, I think they are all an alloy including nickel.
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Why can't I cover my car numberplate up and park it on the pavement? i.e. Why does this just work for bikes?
Phil