October 2003
A friend said they would like their next car to have 'remote hatchback opening' (i.e. from the key fob). Does anyone know where we will find a listing of cars that offer this option?
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Someone told me the new BMW Series 5 and 7 climate control system is causing problems.
It is controlled by the Microsoft CE for Automotive operating system. When it fails, the only way to get it to work again is to turn the engine off and restart the vehicle.
Is this true? Read more
Aprilla:
Totally agree with your comments on CC. My last car (BMW 5 series) had it. Too fiddly by 1/2 to operate & no fresh air if you switched it off.
My current car has AC with large rotary controls & push buttons in the centre. SIMPLE!
I had the misfortune of someone in attempting to avoid an undertaking moped swerve and plant the corner of their car into my bumper. Fortunately neither of us were going that fast and it was only slight contact. There wasn't too much damage to my 6 month old car but a new bumper was required and the bonnet had a crease that had to be ironed out. The car was duly taken to a suitable bodyshop and I went off on hols knowing I'd be collecting my car when I got back.
So I collected it and my car had clearly been outside for a while it was quite dirty. The paintshop manager mentioned something about the difficulty about getting panels to match and some difficulty at getting the bumper mounts straightened out which distracted me from my inspection of the car. My cursory squint at the car was too brief and I was much too close to look at it. To be honest, I didn't really have much of clue what I was looking for.
He then said, he'd hose the car down for me to get the muck off. It looked ok covered in water so I drove it to work and thought nothing of it. I've been commuting into London the last couple of days and I've left the car in the garage. I got back early yesterday and thought about washing it.
Oh dear. Whilst I was washing it, the panel fit was terrible, the bumper is recessed about 5mm to far in leaving the front wings and bonnet tips sticking out. So I carried on and chammied it down.
The end result made my heart sink, the paint finish was actually quite bad, I could see where they hadn't really blended in the new paint to the existing paint, the bonnet blending was really bad that I could see where the new paint and old paint ended and the bumper is a different colour, also no attempt was made to even blend in the wings. Then I noticed the blank for the towing eye in the bumper, it was the original blank and the colour difference was quite pronounced, they hadn't bothered to respray it.
So I rang the insurance company, they've offshored their call centre, wonderful. I can almost hear the 'if this happens then this happens' kind of logic happening. I got quite short shrift but the insurance company said they will sent a engineer out to have a look at the car, if they agree with my point of view then they will pay to get the work rectified. I don't want it to go back to their approved garage I want my dealer bodyshop to take on the work.
At least I would hope for some attempt to get the repair finished to a decent standard. At least get the bumper fitted correctly and the new paint blended in.
Have I missed the boat here and should I have rejected it at the garage? I've read the long running Polo saga and it fills me with dread, anyone had similar experience with this kind of thing? Read more
Brief update and I thought some of this might be useful.........
The engineer showed up today and I ran though the bits and pieces, he agreed with everyone. He was surprised they sprayed it with water before I accepted the work.
He admitted the fit of the bumper was a shocker, the bonnet wasn't flush to the wings and the colour was wrong. He then went off to get the job sheet from the paintshop office.
I was dreading the next bit but this was the most surprising bit.
The job sheet showed work not done, a wing was replaced apparently but no wing was damaged, other bits and pieces showed up that weren't done, even the £10 towing eye blank was down as replaced and it wasn't.
The paintshop manager suitably chastised and knowing the insurance company agent scented blood. He ran off checked the colour on their ICI database, there are two variants for Moonstone Green, a flat green and one with extra 'blue'.
It was clear that mine was darker; the one with extra blue tint. The engineer knew his onions and said that even with pearlescent paint (which is hard to match) a better match than that is possible.
So the upshot is, it's booked for two weeks time, they are allocating plenty of time to it and they also might get ICI down there to do a custom tint as well if the stock paint doesn't give a good match. It seems that paint colour sets after a few days which might explain being unable to spot it first time.
So a result, the insurance company engineer let me go with the car and stayed behind, clearly to have a few words.
If this gives no joy, he's aware of the new SMC (MGR main dealer) bodyshop in the area (I told him) it probably will end up there if this is no good.
I'm a part-time professional driver (people) and often have to drive a Ford Transit minibus (M-reg) which is difficult to get into first gear. An hour in slow-moving traffic leads to an extremely painful left arm. Is it a foregone conclusion that a solution to this problem is difficult and expensive?
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A new clutch and a ratchet & pawl (auto adjuster) will have the Transit back to its former glory, I'm sure.
Once drove a Transit minibus to Blackpool (Lang way!) and that suffered the same problem.
We just came back from a week's holiday based in SE Ireland ,which I can recommend. Good roads and cheaper petrol plus of course the familiar Irish attributes!
We had an excellent self-catering cottage near Kilkenny ..thatched roof, tho modern inside, with very pleasant owners ( Mr and Mrs delaney) who live next door ...about 1.5 hours from Dublin or Cork .Try Emyvale Cottage 003537722335 Read more
Agreed, lovely part of the world. Good driving area once you're an hour or so outside Dublin.
Just don't tell everyone!
Andy
Thinking about getting a Mercedes C-class estate found a 98 c200 manual for £4500 trouble is it has done 190K miles.
Does anyone have experience of running up big miles with one or should I find one with less mileage on it. I understand that it has FSH
Thanks
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I meant a plus point at the appropriate price. High mileage cars are thousands of pounds cheaper than low mileage ones of the same age, and have usually led a healthier lifestyle.
I was given a peugeot 405 diesel, which needed a couple of things doing for the MOT. This has been done and it now passed - but there is something wrong with the position of the gearlever. The lever itself is far too forward - and with 2nd, 4th or reverse selected - the lever is at the normal position for neutral. When 1st, 3rd or 5th is selected the lever is nearly touching the plastic where the radio is!
There was a problem in that a bodged fix had been done where the bellcrank bolt attaches to the steering rack - which needed a replacement of the rack (And the fact that the rack was leaking anyway) and correct parts fitted. When I came to use the car after it passed its MOT - it jumped out of 5th gear whenever you took your foot off the accelerator. My current thought (owing to the position of the gearlever) is that the selector rod from the gear lever to the linkage is one from another car - fitted as part of the bodged repair - which I will try and get another one from a breakers. The other suggestion I had was that it was a worn 5th gear cog in the gearbox which was causing it - as I have read somewhere that the 5 speed box on the 405D is a retrofitted 4 speed box - and the 5th gear cog is easy to replace. Failing that I could get a 'box from a breakers. The car is probably due for a new clutch soon as the pedal seems very high - so this might be the best solution.
Has anyone else had this sort of problem - and any suggestions on how to fix it?
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Jumping out of fifth is so likely to be down to this linkage problem. Either a linkage positioning error or stiffness in a pivot will do this.
As you know the lever is out of position attack this first, you need to get under another 405 and compare. This will make it easy to see what's up with yours.
As DL says omeone who looks at this vehicle type frequently will tell you in minutes on the ramp.
M.M
Maybe this should be in technical, but the first para shouldn't:
I went into a store called, I think, Fast and Furious in Hitchin yesterday, looking for simple chrome tailpipe tips to adorn my revived Capri. They didn't have them, but of course had all sorts of totally OTT and irrelevant nonsense stuff. And, boy, wasn't the brief encounter an experience of the deep joy variety -- "Wotchyawan mate?" . . . grunt . . . multiple grunts . . . "Nah, sorry mate". The palatial premises had at least half a dozen staff talking to each other. So here is the retail manifestation of the MaxPower culture -- yuk.
Anyway, speaking of the tailpipe tips, does anyone know where some 43mm jobs might be obtained? I can find 41mm, I can find 45mm, but 43mm, no. I've tried bulking out the tailpipe with aluminium tape, but it ain't good enough.
Perhaps I should be asking this on the MaxPower site . . . Read more
Glad you managed to accomplish the chrome task.
For future "problems", why don't you join a Ford owners club or a specific Capri club where you can share info with other like minded people who will steer you in the right direction whether mechanical or for parts. Especially when you find it hard to get things off the shelf to fit properly. These people will know.
There seems to be loads of companies offering performance chips or tuning boxes for Diesel cars, which suggest to me that there must be quite a few diesel cars out there with these chips or tuning boxes installed.
If I were wanting to buy a diesel car is there an easy way to spot that it has had one of these devices installed?
The tuning boxes can easily (so I am told) be taken off so how would I as a buyer figure out if a car has been subject to use with one of these power enhancement mods?
I wouldn't want to buy a car that has had one of these mods as it has undoubtably been put under greater strain than a non modded car.
I realise that these devices utilise the safety margin these engines have but I would still prefer an unmolested example.
The value of a car that has had one of these devices is surely less than an unmolested example but unless there is an easy way to spot that it has been deinstalled the buyer will be none the wiser and thus paying over the odds. If it has a tuning box still installed you would? be able to spot and thus offer less for it.
With more and more of these mods being sold, is buying a diesel becoming more fraught with uncertainty?
Thoughts appreciated. Read more
Very dodgy PG. The OE manufacturer can plant all sorts of ways of checking if the chip is non-standard if they wished to with dealer diagnostic kit. Which manufacturers have or not is another matter. Detection could lead to big trouble as described above not to mention what would his employers view be.
Dismissal?
Hi guys
i have a 94 2.5 6v omega and was wondering what the normal running temp should be, mine is running a bit hot....
Thanks all
Graham Read more
My `96 2.5 usually runs at 95, however the needle has "wandered" all the way up to the top and gone way past the red band. This is an instrument fault though because if it was a true reading i think steam would be very much evident-there isn`t any though. A tap on the panel cover seems to reset the needle back to 95. Another tap will set it off wandering again. I`m a bit reluctant to investigate this problem as it seems to be the gauge rather than the sender and will not be easy to get at.


Thanks for all the information, I've passed it on.