September 2003
Would really appreciate some help for my 1999 Audi A6 1.8T:
I had the car serviced by a main dealer recently, three days later a strange noise developed & I took it back to the dealer who diagnosed the noise comming from a bearing on the shaft of the water pump. The noise seems to be coming from one of the belts and can be heard when revving the engine over 1k revs (like a drill type noise, but not obvious at idle). I took it to a local independent for a second opinion who says it is not the waterpump or any belt driven item, but needs to have it back to check other things.
A further development after all this is that the temp gauge, which had previously never moved from 90 degrees C once warm, now starts to rise when the car is warm and driven at over 40mph (getting to over 110 degrees C). However when the car is stopped and idling the needle moves back to 90 and will stay at 90 until the car gets to over 40mph again. This cycle will continue, but the needle always moves back to 90 when the car is brought to a stand still.
There are no signs of any coolant loss, and the belts all seem fine.
Thanks
SteveX
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This is something that has been on my mind for along time now. Which is better a:
BMW 3 series - Mercedes C Class
BMW 5 series - Mercedes E Class
BMW 7 series - Mercedes S Class
BMW X5 - Mercedes M class
There are other sports cars but there are two many to list and im getting bored.
Well look at that Read more
My brother has spotted one for sale outside a 'nice house'. He's hankered after one for a while now. He's thinking as a replacement second car or even as a third car.
He has only visually inspected it and read the details in the window.
Car is H reg, reading 9,000 miles, so no real idea of true mileage (probably irrelevant anyway). New wood, full MOT, servo brakes, good tyres, generally good condition. Some rust on rear door hinges, and signs of touching up below windows.
1. Any ideas re value? (I won't say initially waht it's up at)
2. How realistic is it to run such a car these days, even over fairly low mileages?
3. What should he look out for on this 33 year-old car?
4. Any advice re inspections?
Many thanks
Pat Read more
For £2595 it's got to be a good example.
Just because the owner is asking that price though don't assume that it is a good example and not a plasticised rot box.
Tell your bro to take along a small magnet. He should look aroud the extremities (nost noteably the bottoms) of all the panels to check for filler, especially the wheel arches. Also, gently knocking the car with your knuckle will help to bear this out. Metal will give a more hollow knock than filler, but bear in mind where you're looking, ie an edge of a panel may sound different to the middle anyway.
In addition, take along a couple of sturdy car ramps and drive first the front, then the rear up and have a look inside the wheel arches. My Oxford did suffer from holes in these, though they weren't structural.
Finally, don't forget about its mechanical condition. Does the engine look suspiciously clean etc?
Also, regarding the price. Pricing of classic cars is a real lottery. My Morris Oxford was priced at £850 and with some careful negotoation I settled on £675, a large % drop. If it has been up for sale for a while, you may get a lot more that £200 off.
A mateof mine bought a Stag advertised a £2,500 a few years ago. He paid £1500.
H
I have just bought a 52 plate Fiat Punto and have noticed that after about 30 mins in the car the clutch starts creaking when i press it down and then on the way up again. The car is under warranty but i just wondered if anyone had any ideas as to whether this could be a serious problem. Thank you. Read more
not wanting to put you off the new punto but I also do alot of head gaskets on them, again I love the job involved its an easy one you only get 3 hrs if that do to it. its only the 1200cc "fire engine" that seems to go.
Hello all of you out there this is my first time.
I have a 98 Mondeo 2.0 ghia X, after using the cool setting and air conditioning all summer I now find that I can\'t select warm air, every other aspect of the heater A/C seems to be working, I have all fan speeds and can direct the flow of air to feet face etc. I have removed the control dial which is a variable resistor, which seems to be functioning correctly, I\'ve brought the appropriate haynes manual but can\'t find this control on any of the wiring diagrams in order to trace the fault, what does it control? flap or valve or somthing else? would appreciate any Help!
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Was going to get a couple of quotes but there appears to be a whole multitude of brokers out there - can anyone recommend any of them? Am looking to insure a late 60's/early 70's car on (most likely) a 9k per annum policy if it makes any difference.
Many thanks in advance - Dan Read more
That's right Martin, classic insurers usually ask if you have the use of another car.
I've purchased an April W reg 2000 VW bora 1.9 TDi (red Di) SE. My question is how do I tell the bhp and whether it's a pump diesel or not.
Using internet insurance sites and entering the reg no, they come up with either 90 or 110 bhp. The owners manual shows the engine layout to be a 85 kW model, though this equates to a 115 bhp model!
What's the significance of the red Di on the rear badge?
Any help (other than directing me to my nearest vw dealer) would be much appreciated. Read more
I would also associate the red Di with the 115bhp pd engine.
I have not actually seen a pd engine, but if you remove the engine cover on either the 90 or 110, you will see the standard type injection pump with four high pressure metal pipes going to the four injectors. Each injector can be seen clearly standing proud of the cylinder head.
On the pd I believe you will not see any injectors as such, because the units are inside the head/valve cover. I'm not sure whether there are even four injector pipes, as the injector units may have an common supply like common rail.
Just a few possible pointers to hopefully help your predictiment.
I almost feel embarrassed to admit this but if anyone else has done the same it may save a nasty accident.
I recently took delivery of one of Germany's finest people carriers and because I like to keep the seats clean in the hope of getting a better resale price I fitted it out with removeable seat covers.
Also because it is my second Sharan I didn't look round it too closely or read too much of the manual. However in a moment of boredom I started flicking through the manual and yes, you've guessed it, I had covered the2 airbags in the front seats with seat covers. Needless to say they have now been stripped off.
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Cabsmanuk, It is funny you should mention this issue of seat covers and side airbags as only yesterday I was appraising a late model car with faux-leather seat covers and I had a look to see if the owner had unintentionally covered up the side airbags (he hadn't - there weren't any fitted).
CMark
PS please kindly have a look over on Technical at one of your old threads - "running out of oil". I'd be interested to know how it finally ended.
Just seen an ad for a Discovery V8, 3-door, 1990, 5-speed, 110K.
I\'ve read they can be a bag of nails & nothing but problems. If it\'s got this far, it can\'t be that bad. It also has a gas conversion. Any coments, experiences (good or bad!)would be welcome. I\'ve also read HJ\'s breakdown. All for £3000. Too much, too little? Read more
Correct Aprilia, I think its on the LT77 transmission, that the shaft that goes in the transfer box gear gets more and more play over time until you get a box full of neutrals, IIRC they introduced a oil thrower ring to lubricate the parts.
Electrolytic action...My landrover has galvanised steel body cappings. There is no corrosion and it was made in 1974. I've seen around 10-yr old landrovers (no longer galv) with serious rust!
Early Discos are getting popular amongst some of the off-road fraternity, also early range rovers (especially when bobtailed), as they can be picked up for the same price as a leaf sprung series 2.25 pet/diesel.
James (still bouncing on ye olde hard springs)
Richard Brunstrom the North Wales chief constable notorious for his crusade against speeding motorists is spearheading a new crack down on drivers.
Brunstrom has revealed that his officers are now equipped with 'impairment meters' which will be used to subject drivers to roadside tests lasting up to ten minutes.
The timed tasks,thought to involve push-button responses to a visual image,are understood to be the equivalent of rubbing ones tummy while patting ones head.
Drivers who fail to show quick enough reaction times or the ability to carry out a number of tasks at once face fines or even lifetime bans.
The RAC yesterday condemned the project as a 'fatwah' or death sentence to the elderly motorist. Read more
I think you may find it relates SOLELY to one option being discussed to detect DRUG DRIVING - ie impairment of DRIVING through taking DRUGS... whether 'controlled' ie unlawful or prescription which can have similar effects. A 'Drugometer' has been talked about for a while - one company produced a version they felt was okay but Home Office disagreed, still under development by others. However, an 'impairmentometer' seems altogether fairer to me, bearing in mind that if it was authorised for use in a manner similar to the alcohol breath screening devices (breathalyser!) it would be used only where the manner of driving ( DRIVING!) or some other evidence gave rise to suspecting use of drugs.
If someone is ripped to the, er... 'ears' either on speed (are you there Mr Brunstrom??! Maybe it's THAT sort that 'kills?') or Benylin or Betablockers or Bunion lotion for that matter, personally I'd rather they weren't driving. At least, not on any road I'm likely to be on!
I've had a few BMWs and they always seem to have very limited room in the back. Admittedly I haven't owned one for a few years, but they don't look like that has changed much.