September 2003
hi,i recently got a peugeot 306. it's a 1.4 petrol.the problem is when i put in 2nd gear to go round corners it starts to judder like it's going to stall.also when istart it up it seems to rev itself up thenalmost cut out.anyone know whats wrong? thanks Read more
Hi Folks,
I have a Pug 305 Dturbo with 140k. The engine seems to have a developed a strange sound when started from cold. It's hard to describe the sound but it sounds like a dry bearing (squeal with slight rattle?) and it dissappears once the engine is running for two minutes or more. It is definitely not the altenator belt. There is no smoke from teh engine when this is happening. The engine pulls like a train and is not burning oil.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Martin
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Are you going to drive to the garage?
This has probably been posted a few time here..but here we go again :)
Bought a car from independent garage and at time of sale was told they only had one set of keys (2 black ones only). I thought nothing of it until I read the car manuals when I got home and discovered I need a master red key!
This why the car was for sale for £4,395
In the book is says, "Bring along your red master key when you get your car serviced."
A couple of questions:
1) Is this garage legally repsonsible for supplying the master key? Heard from a friend who has a Honda Accord bought from a LexAuto that they 'coughed up' a master key when it was not sold with one.
Anything I can do?
2) What exactly is the key needed for when it's being serviced? The most they do on a basic service is change the oil?
3) Was told by Honda dealer locally that it will cost approx £120 + VAT for the key, plus fitting??? I must have missed that bit on the phone. Fitting?
A way to get one cheaper that works okay?
Thanks.
Jason Clark Read more
I was in a similar situation when I bought a 1.6 VTi last year, it came with 1 black key!
The supplying dealer was not interested in helping so I sent the key to www.alarmremotes.co.uk who copied it for about £30.
Haven't run into any problems yet without a red key, Honda didn't ask for it during it's major service.
Tim
I really want to buy a vehicle like these ones
-Verso/Belingo/Kangoo but why are they so ugly? Can anyone think of a better looking vehicle that offers the same layout .......or am I being vain? I need a shortish in length car for the city (easy to park) with 5 doors with loading area for local deliveries of bags of food and facility to take passengers - estates are too long? any ideas.......Thank you Read more
The problem with the 1.9 XUD Berlingos is that they don't have a turbo. Same goes for the Partner.
FWIW if you can, I'd probably accept that you're not going to get an HDi for less than £8k, pay the extra £1500 or so, and with it get a newer car that you keep for an extra year or two to pay back the difference. It'll probably do that, being newer and worth more when you do sell, and more economical in the meantime, as well as being a better drive.
(I've never driven a Berlingo but certainly if you compare the 1.9 XUD in the 206 with the 2.0 HDi, I'd take the HDi every time at the sort of price difference we're talking about).
Just a little problem I need to get around.
Stupidly let some air into the cooling system of this car and since then have found that the coolant overheated and the fan would not come on.
I refilled and think I have successfully expelled all the air out of the system, but the fan still shows no sign of cooperating.
Where is the fan thermostat on the car? how can I test the fan and what should I do?
H Read more
Make it a nice concise, close-up pic of the engine, looking down if you can.
Give us a nudge when it is there, we'll hop over and have a look-see for you.
Just flushed the coolant on my mk2 golf 1.3 (1990). It says in the manual the capacity is 6.3 litres however just topped it up and it takes about half that. Have i done it correctly or is the manual wrong?
Ps if i have done it right it means i\'ve bought more antifreeze than i need!
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Go to the local VW dealer and buy a new o-ring for the thermostat housing first - about £1.25 plus VAT.
Use a 10mm 1/4 drive socket with a short extension to unscrew the two housing bolts. Out will spurt a whole load of water/coolant as the engine block drains. The thermostat will probably drop out too.
Dear Sirs,
I have a problem with my Golf III VR6 2.8 climatronic system and I would very much like your help. I had my climatronic on and unfortunately I fell in a deep hole in the middle of the street. My climatronic stopped working immediately and I couldn\'t change anything on it even though I tried all the buttons. After a while it gave my an indication with the letters \"HE\" at the place where it displays the outside temperature.
Does anybody know what this means? Can you help me?
Thank you very much
Dinos Longinos Read more
I'd pull the battery terminals off for 15 - 20 mins and see what happens after. Electronic kit has a mind like that sometimes....it needs rebooting, bit like the wife, really.
Car supermarkets seem an attractive alternative to main dealers for new cars. However, I notice in the small print that as the cars are imports, they are not necessarily to UK specification. Apart from the obvious differences there might be such as radio spec etc what other differences could there be? For example, is rustproofing likely to be to the same standard? Also, what disadvantages are there of buying from a car supermarket - what about warranty work? Read more
With some cars eg Toyota you get the full 3 year warranty and, as with my wife's car, to full UK spec in every detail. It came with 3 keys, 2 remotes, English handbook and in addition to UK spec a fire extinguisher and a luggage net - Wow
The car is registered with Toyota UK and was recalled for a(free)brake modification with other Yaris Versos
The car was registered to Trade Sales(as new) on 06 Sept and a change of owner(to SWMBO) on 08 Sept. I hardly think that being the second name on the V5 will have a huge impact when it is sold by her.
I have just purchased a Vauxhall/Opel Zafira add-on trailer wiring loom that connects to the rear light cluster looms, battery, and 12N socket.
As part of the install there is a \'Flashguard\' relay that plugs into trailer loom at the rear of the car . When testing the indicators, with the trailer plugged in, everything seems OK but I expected to hear a buzzer but there is no audio warning . Is this OK/Legal?
If I pull out a trailer indicater bulb(to simulate failure) all that happens is that the flashing rate doubles on the remaining car indicators. Is this right? Everything is OK with the trailer disconnected.
Supplemental question - I have \'Check control\' (Bulb test) on the Zafira and as part of the rear trailer loom, there is also a check control relay that connects to the loom and a buzzer?
I guess this allows the normal lamp checks to be made, without the trailer affecting the test, but what does the buzzer do?
The Opel installation instructions are pictorial and don\'t explain a thing.
Sorry about the length of this post but I\'m baffled.
Any suggestions gratefully received .
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Do let us know how you get on, OK?
I have a problem with my car.
It is a Toyota camry 1.9 litre turbo diesel 1987 with 100,000 miles
The problem started when the temperature gauge kept fluctuating under high speeds hitting the ?overheating? mark. The garage diagnosed it as a head gasket fault and replaced it.
However, when taking the car for a long journey after one year after having the gasket replaced, the car overheated again.
It happened after covering 2000 miles in two days; When on the German Autobahn coming back toward the UK I was in a queuing traffic jam two hours or so with the car moving at 5 mph the same happened.
The temperature gauge went to the red. I put the heater on in the car and the gauge slowly went back to normal.
My question is what could be causing this. The gasket was replaced last year and I only covered 3,500 miles since then.
Any help would be most appreciated.
Greg
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The heater is just another radiator, and it's fed with the same air as the main radiator - it's also only about 1/10th the size. If the heater was required to bring the engine temp back down, then I would suspect a fault with the forced cooling on the main radiator (be it electric or viscous coupling).
There is a case I guess that the heater is receiving the chilled air from the air con evaporator, and will therefore be much more efficient - but I haven't worked out if that will remove more heat from the system or not - depends on the boundaries I suppose.... No, it will, because the heat removed plus the energy input by the compressor is exhausted throught the air con condenser at the front of the car.
Given the size and efficiency of the radiators on most modern cars, I would have thought the design air temperature would be well above 40°C.
Could be way off beam though....
RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
check the lambada sensor, idle speed valve and for a vacuum leak