August 2003
Hello all,
Ive got a 1995 Ford Mondeo 24v ( Duratec V6 engine) with 130k miles. When the weather is warm I get quite severe pinking from 3000rpm upwards with high load ( uphill or accelerating ), this pinking seems to coincide with the opening of the secondary throttles. I maintain the car myself and it has new spark plugs, HT leads, air filter and fuel filter. Ive tried running higher octane fuel ( Shell Optimax ) and the pinking is still there. Ive checked the Intake Air Temp sensor and it gives a reading of approx 25kOhms at 20degC which seems to be OK. Also checked the EGR by applying a vacuum to the valve at idle, the engine stumbled then stalled so EGR passages are not blocked.
The MAF and Lambda sensors are the originals but passed last MOT at lambda=1.01 so I assume they are in good condition. Ive also run some Redex injector cleaner through but no improvement.
If I remove the Octane Adjust Plug the engine runs fine and doest not pink at all however I dont think this is a good solution.
Any ideas about what could cause this pinking ???? I dont know what else to check and its getting very annoying.
Any help much appreciated, esp Adam from Tune up, my email is danterry1@yahoo.co.uk
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Hello. Charging relay fitted on RH side of dashboard. Does anyone know where it is exactly? Have been told it is above yellow relay but cannot see another one..Apparently if this relay isn't replaced it will damage the new alternator??? Anyone heard of this problem? Read more
I saw a carina today but have two questions.
1. The coolant is black. Is this normal on a petrol 2.0
2. The top of the oil filler cap has some sludgy black deposit. Again, is this normal.
Please help.
Gregory Read more
"Does this point to anything"
Yes!!!, that and everything else you have mentioned point to a car you should avoid.8-) Seriously, there is nothing that you have mentioned to date that makes that car even worth a second look. The price may be low, but I *know* you can find much better cars for that 2,000. They may be older (you haven't mentioned age of Carina) and they may not be Carinas, but they will be in better shape and better able to serve you longer.
To answer the squeaky question, yes that squeak sounds as if it is coming from either the clutch cable (if so equipped)or maybe from the clutch pedal pivot point or throw-out/release bearing. The throw-out bearing could be costly to remedy, but the other two are minor and wouldn't be deal-breakers...if they were on a car that was a good deal...which that Carina isn't.
Hi,
My Focus has developed a "knocking/rattle" on the o/s front end. It is just like a failed shocker, i am told it may well be a "drop rod" problem. I believe these are similar to track rod ends but vertical, and are connected to the anti roll bar. Never heard of drop rods before, is this a new thing ford have brought out, had a few cars in my time, (last one a sierra) but never come across these. Any explanation and cost of replacement would be helpful. Thanks Read more
Thanks for that "link" (no pun intended).
I keep getting a lot of interference (crackling noise etc) from my VW gamma radio. Any ideas and how is the radio removed.
Thanks - Neil F. Read more
I really thought this post was gonna end something like:
"..... The radio should loosen so that it can be pulled out. You can then chuck it away and buy one which works."
Hi. My friend has a Fiat Uno K-Reg. Battery will go flat by the next day even after a full charge. Charged again today. Charger showed fully charged. Disconnected an put a meter across the terminals. The voltage just started dropping off. Within 3 minutes it was down to 7 Volts. Repeated the charge/test routine. The dropping off slowed down but it was still apparent. Battery isn't too old. All cells are OK with DI water. Fitted back to the car and checked the drain in series with the earth terminal (to earth strap). Showing 130 mA. Is that a problem?? Is the battery "duff"? Read more
Light in the boot, or other courtesy light is usually 6 watt: about 500 mA.
The 140 mA quoted is likely to be the alternator - but it's still a relatively low drain:
to take 20 AH out of a battery will take about 6 days, if my calcs are correct, and you'll still start it during the summer if you have a half decent battery (say 45 AH fully charged).
Hi all,
When I start off from \'cold\' in the morning,the first 50 yds it runs ok, then I have a left turn at a junction. For the next 30 yds or so it seems starved of petrol and plays up a bit, after that no bother, goes great. Once had this years ago on an old Ford pop.
Anyone any ideas,or had similar problem?
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Holts "Damp Start" - went through cans of it on my 1982 Ford Capri about 10 years ago. I believe it was essentially the same as WD40 though
Today I decided to give general things on the car a check today as i hadn\'t done in a while. When i was checking tyre pressure i noticed that the tyre i had fitted a few months back is different size to the rest of the tyres. The other 3 are 165/65 R14 whereas the new one is a 175/65 R14. I don\'t really know too much about tyre sizes but i\'m pretty sure the first figure indicates the width of the tyre so i have wider tyre on the front drivers side than the rest. Question is, is this going to do any harm to the car? I.e suspension, diff etc. And should i take the car back the rapid fit place i had it done and have it changed?
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Well, if on a driven wheel the diff will have been doing a bit more work that usual! - but you should be OK.
Ok - I have a 6 yr old Japanese 3dr hatch that I want to change. I do 12-14,000 miles a year mostly a motorway commute - can be a crawl at times - other time 70+ mph. My current car is lacking in toys and refinement. Also - at 70+ mph it's at 3700 rpm which I find quite wearing.
I want something new (not used) that is:
- refined, reliable, well built and well equipped (abs, aircon, heated mirrors, cd player, central locking, electric windows).
It must have a hatch for ease of loading. I had thought of a Toyota Celica as they are very nice but worry that as it 'stands out' it could get vandalised as I have to leave my car out in the open. Also - even after discounts I still think it's quite pricey.
A friend has suggested I get a Seat Ibiza TDI sport instead - a diesel hot hatch apparently. I've never had a diesel so I'm not sure. Also - I'm worried that it's a bit small to be safe.
I had thought of a Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla petrol.
Any other thoughts?
thanks!
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Actually has anybody in the backroom got one of the Seat Ibiza TDI sport models - what's in been like for reliability and what has the dealer been like?
thanks
My sister has just passed her driving test and is looking to buy a car about 3 years old. She fancies a Ford Ka and I would be grateful for any opinions on this choice, eg. economy, easy to drive, reliability and insurance group.
Thanks for any comments. Read more
I had a 1998/S Ka from new, and it had the spark plugs rust in the cylinder head at 60,000 miles. It cost 200 quid to get them bored out at a back-street garage. God knows how much it would have been at a Ford main dealer.
The new Zetec engine I believe has a aluminium cylinder head so this shouldn't be a problem.
Other than that, and the throttle idle sensor going at 63k, I never had any problems with mine. It was a great little car.
mike
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Hi Dan,
According to my information (CAPS) the ATS spec is as follows.
20 degrees C. 37K ohms - 39K ohms
40 degrees C. 15K ohms - 17K ohms
60 degrees C. 7K ohms - 8K ohms
80 degrees C. 3K ohms - 4K ohms
Suggest you really need to check through temp range.
Suggest you also check compressions, although I suspect the chances of a carbon build-up are slight where the car is well exercised !
Regards, Adam
Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble.