Its a little known fact that sound deadening stops sound getting out as well! Its not the amount of road noise, its the frequency. By countering this with a sub inside the car there will be much clearer bass even at lower volumes as subs play the frequencys that normal speakers cant and which some part of the road noise is made up of. The set up above isnt a very loud one in the world of car audio, It is similar to what I have and I certainly dont go round advertising the fact that it CAN go loud. It never gets above half volume. Anyways the people who think they have a loud sytem usually have lots of 6x9 ovals run off a head unit which is a recipie for distortion and plenty of volume but no sound quality at all.

the best uk website for acr audio related matters is www.caraudiodirect.com. It is all explained there in much greater detail than I ever could.

But don't forget, when you come to sell on again, it's still a 'write off'!!

VB

Your HD comment is right on. I must be more gentle with mine or (unlikely) a better rider than than I thought. But then with all that torque available.... Agree about V-twins, would never have anything else. Unless is the '61 Bonneville I once owned. Even the little 750 cc Virago that honey-ko rides is a treat and very light and easy to handle. I have also heard bad reports of the TL1000 but that's never a bike I'd ride anyway.
Take off the plastic and it's so industrial-looking under there.

I have in the past used both coating methods. For the price you are paying they should be power coat and baked which if by far the best solution. Paint and a lacquer coat is Ok but is not as tough and prone to attack when refitting the tyres and post fitting regular cleaning. Shop around a bit to fine a good bead blaster and Power Coat shop. Knock on weights are a no no and a good tyre shop will still balance on the inner and outer, well 70% outer is required to fix a problem balance. There are also outer curved stick on weights if really required. Regards Peter