July 2003
Hi all. A friends 1992 (1.0L) is continually draining the battery. I haven't had a chance to inspect it closely, but there isn't anything obvious like a light on. She has fitted a few new batteries in a short space of time. I took out the battery a week ago,let it fully charge. Refitted and needed to "jump" the car to get it going. Took it for a run and seemed fine. Stopped the car and started again no probs. Tried the next day and totally dead. Not even a "jump" got it going. Stereo "facia" already removed just in case.Anything I should check??? Read more
Mr H and I both have Honda CRV's with remote central locking, mine's 6 years old next month, and his is just gone two years old.
My remote boot release has never been used because in isolation it sets off the alarm. I just carry the other, smaller remote (which is also linked to the immobiliser) and then open the boot as per - no prob's.
Mr H's vehicle though - self locks if you just use the remote and don't either open the door or put the key in the ignition pretty swiftish. Not very helpful in lots of circumstances.
(although his remote boot opening works independently - which is quite good in supermarket car parks)
My question is - should Mr H's car automatically lock itself again, after using the remote? The dealer/service agent says it should - be it's damn inconvenient.
It seems an odd thing to have changed since my car came out - unless there's a good reason for it, that we haven't realised?
Are we being fobbed off or is it right, anyone know?
"Appearances can be Deceptive" Read more
"You have just unlocked your Honda. You now have thirty seconds to open one of the doors. If you should choose not to do so, the doors will automatically lock themselves......"
Andy
Hi
I have a 95 audi 80 1.9 TDi. I was due to part exchange the car on Monday so I went away for the weekend thinking it would be our last drive together. 145K and I have never had any problems with her - FASH etc. Typically, when I was away she decided to rev to 2100rpm and then cough and splutter like she wasn't getting enough fuel (I had to drive from devon to Reading at 55mph!) The car is fine when revved up not under load, but just looses all power after 2100rpm when driving - this happens in all gears. a local garage has had a look and say it's definitely an electronic problem. i am taking her to Audi tomorrow which will no doubt cost me a small fortune. Has anyone had this problem before or any suggestions on what it is and how much it will cost me?
Thanks
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With the 'hindsight' of a poor performing Peugeot 306 DT last week, I think it would be prudent to check the operation of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve on your 80 TDi.....the 306 I looked at last week was slooooow and smoky - disabling the valve (after removing the intercooler and finding it to be choked with soot, confirming my diagnosis) restored the usual spritely performance from the engine.
The EGR valve is on top of the inlet manifold at the top of the engine, easy to see and 'play' with....which is more than can be said about a 406 TD.....
Another 'whats your experience' topic - hurrah!
This one is about what is the most 'cor blimey' motoring moment you've ever seen.
Mine is when is was in my friends Sunny GTI-R. We were in the middle lane of the M27 at about 80mph and there was a Porsche 996 Turbo in the outside lane overtaking us - but quite slowly. all of a sudden a McLaren F1 rushed right up behind it, waited until the Porsche pulled over(not something you see every day), and then the McLaren just absolutely gunned it. bang. it was gone.
U-N-B-E-L-I-E-V-A-B-L-E. i have never, never seen anything move so quick on the road. Absolutely fantastic. Me and my friend just looked at each other. and couldnt say a word.
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...Yes artics are a great non favorite of mine as well!
Whilst travelling from Leicester to Market Harborough 9 years ago I was going up hill and had moved into the overtaking lane provided for those going up hill to overtake a slow van. I was doing 65 or so.
In the distance I saw an artic at a junction on the RHS waiting to turn right. I thought, "He won't be a complete an utter prat now will he?" WRONG!!!!!!!
Unbelievebly, he commenced his right hand turn into the lane I was in about 50 feet in front of me forcing me back into the lane right behind the van I'd meant to overtake!
I couldn't believe the complete and utter stupidiy of this inbocile! He had absolutely no excuse visability was fine, there were no obstructions, remember, I saw him in plenty of time.
Oddly enough I was on my way to the dentist at the time. I remember realising how relaxing it was to be in the chair afterwards, reflecting on my Near Death Experience!
****Signature? - Ideas on a postcard please anyone!****
Hugo
Hello everyone - I've got a problem and I wonder if anyone can help me out with it.
I have a 1994 VW Golf Mk3 1.4CL with a recurring noise from the brakes. The problem is not when I press the brake, more when I don't or (especially) when I go round right hand turns - there is a squeal from the offside front. Not only that, but on rough surfaces, there is a loud clunking noise from the same area. When I press the brake, both noises dissappear. The fluid level is normal and I have no other problems.
I've had it in at my local garage about 8 times in the past few months where they have replaced the slides twice but, each time, the problem has resurfaced soon afterwards. A mate who knows a bit about VAG cars says that it could be misaligned spings in the brake assembly that is causing this to happen.
Can anyone help me before I take a can of petrol and a box of matches to the damn thing? Read more
Right T3, we've got to solve this then. It would be driving me nuts.
Now then, correct me if I'm wrong but you have single thickness discs on the front of your Golf, not the fancy ventilated ones?
You press the brakes and the pads get forced out of the caliper and onto the disc. The noise stops as you have solid contact and no free space.
When you release the brakes, the caliper piston seal retracts and releases the pad, but only pulls back minimally.
If you have any sort of vibration then, it would manifest as a squeal.
I would remove osf roadwheel.
Remove pads.
Smear Copaslip fairly lightly all over the metal backplate of each pad and check that there is a stainless steel plate (anti rattle washer plate) sitting in the hole of the caliper piston.
With the pads out, you are looking at the open end of a letter "U" on it's side. In the top of the "U" should sit the plate I'm on about. Is it there?
Do these and i think peace will now return.
Really you should do both sides of the car.
Having waited four days extra to pick my car up complete with re-con engine I was informed on receipt of car that the gearbox was not operating properly.
Now I was very dubious about this but on starting the vehicle the engine managment light (Orange !) came on and the car was very very sluggish from pull off altho not too bad once built up speed.
My first feeling was that these ******** had stuck in a recon engine with a knackered gearbox because they couldn\'t be bothered to swap them over.
However, on second thoughts this could eplain the power loss which Vauxhall claimed was due to idles speed valve control.
I was told the gearbox being knackered was placing extra stress on the engine and this was why the engine had gone.
I am fuming now having just spent £900 to find that a recon auto gbox is £590. I\'m guessing I coukld get a second hand installed for about £300 but this leaves me having spent £1200 (best case scenario) on engine gbox and £400 on service/repairs since buying the car last Novemeber for £2900 leaving me with an investment of £4500 for a N reg which now has 77k on the clock and full VSH (which quite frankly is worthless as both the main components of the car have been replaced)
I obviously can\'t afford to buy another car is this car was bought basically to last for many years.
I am sorely tempted to sell this car when the engine warranty runs out and buy a Japanese car which would not look as good but will probably be 20 x more reliable and won\'t cost a fortune to maintain.
Have I just been unlucky or is there a particular problem with a 1996 N 2.0 GLS 16v auto Omega?
This was supposed to be the affordable car of my dreams but quite honestly I am sick of the damn thing at the moment. Read more
Cheers, this seems to work a lot better now.
Hello all, especially those of you who have dismantled a 405 1.9TD (XUD) engine. :-)
Strange one this - when the recent spell of warm-ish weather started (approx mid-late June), a small oil leak began to make itself apparent from the timing end of the engine. Initially it was just an occasional drip from the lowest corner of the sump, leading me to think either the sump oil seal (Instant Gasket or equivalent), or the rubber rocker cover gasket had let go. Closer inspection suggested the latter.
The leak got worse, so I consequently replaced the rocker cover gasket, and found only a minor leak from each rear corner of it. Nothing anywhere near what was now dribbling from the sump. I decided at this point (and after perusing this very site), that it might just be the camshaft oil seal. As the timing belt was soaked in oil and needing a change I bought a new belt and both camshaft and crankshaft oil seals. The end of the block seemed pretty dry all over with the timing covers off, but the old belt had definitely been soaked in a mist of oil.
After reassembly, and a change of oil and filter, the leak returned immediately. At this point I decided to run the engine with the timing covers and alternator belt removed, just to see exactly where the source of the leak was. It appears that the source is BEHIND the engine mount, as it bolts to the head/block/crankcase. The whole bottom edge of this "plate" is running with oil, and oil is seen to be running down the plunger for the timing belt tensioner.
The addition of stop-leak in the oil has made no difference, and apart from a split hose (now remedied) I have no loss of coolant. It still pulls like a trooper too. Crankcase pressure DOES seem a little high, but all accessible breathers have been checked and are clear.
The car has never used any oil between changes, and I have always used Mobil 1. I have run the car for the last 4 years (bought with 99k, now on 126k & FSH before then), without it missing a beat.
Does anybody have any suggestions? The Haynes manual for 405 diesels isn't one of their best - I've found more info in the old Pug 309 manual. Is there an oil seal behind the right-hand engine mount that might be the cause? Or could it be the head-gasket?
Sorry for the long post, just wanted to avoid missing anything.
Cheers in advance
Strobo Read more
Why was the head replaced? Usually a gasket change is sufficient!
Whilst stationary I was backed into by a white van. My rear quarter panel has been dented and requires replacement costing approximately £1200. The car in question is an immaculate L-reg Saab 900 SE classic, with a large sentimental attachment.
The driver of the white van initially was very abusive but after calming down a little asked if I would be reasonable enough to settle the claim without going through insurance as he had just made a large claim on his own insurance and is a new driver. I agreed; he gave me his name, address and reg. number, but has since failed to respond to my calls. I have a witness to the event.
I am now concerned about the following:
a. would you advise going through the insurance
b. if the car is written off what would be the implications for me buying it back and repairing it myself
c. how would it affect my future insurance premiums Read more
(a) "Settling the claim without going through insurance" is great if you can trust the other party. Otherwise you are facing a long bitter struggle to get him to pay up. There are many instances of initial agreements being forgotten when the bills arrive.
You already have reasons to distrust him, so put the matter in the hands of your insurance company now.
With help of your witness, you may be lucky enough to get the other party's insurance company (if he's got one) to foot the entire bill. In which case you would not lose your NCB. But if there are any arguments about liability and your insurance company incurs any costs in settling the claim, you will lose your NCB (or part of it, depending on your policy) even if you can prove you are not to blame. "No Claim" not "No Blame".
(b) You could, but would you still be so sentimentally attached if it was no longer in "immaculate" condition?
(c) You will have to declare the incident when getting quotations in the future, whether or not it goes through insurance. If you stick with your present insurer, you shouldn't have any problems, apart from your NCB. If you shop around, it's possible some other insurers might be picky and load the premium.
Ian
Please can I have any advice that anyone with experience of these beasts can throw at me. Running costs, tricks to longevity, problems experienced, joys of driving etc!
I am looking to buy one relatively cheaply in the coming months. It is likely to be a Mk 1 and may even come from a family run franchise dealer I know (in that case with a brief warranty chucked in at this price). Am likely to be paying < £1000. Car is also likely to be a 2.0 petrol manual - I'd like the 2.1 diesel but the petrols around seem more "honest" mileage wise and/or haven't been driven to Mars and back. Now, I have access to a very highly recommended and well priced Citroen specialist who apparently is very familiar with the suspension on these (and all other Citroen cars). Admittedly not close to me (in London) but near my parents in Cheshire but accessible all the same bar some catastrophic failure.
Plan is to get 2 years of usage out of the car minimum - about 15k a year if that. Am capabable of basic servicing but always (for ease) get my oil changed at a fast fit outfit.
Am I being stupid looking at these cars? Is their reputation one of those undeserved "myths"? Said specialist would be quite prepared to give a car the "once over" at a reasonable cost which I'll probably do. Would that be enough to find a good car? What about running costs, tricks to longevity, problems experienced, joys of driving etc?!
Am very concerned about having a ton and a half of unusable iron and hydraulic fluid sat on my drive after 6 months along with a nervous breakdown! Read more
I used www.gsfcarparts.com/ for parts for my XM
I also found that there were common parts from other Citroen/Peugeots. i.e. the heater motor is common between XM, Peugeot 605 and AFAIK 807.
The XM and 605 shared floorpan, engines etc.
On my Dad's brand new Citroen Picasso there is some switchgear that looks the same as on my 1990 XM.
There's an very active XM YahooGroup at autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/XM-L/
BR
Michael
steam.to a summer day out
Sorry to put something here which is clearly not motoring but if I stick it in the "I have a question" thread I don't think it will get the attention it deserves. Moderators - if you could please let this thread run for a short period it would be most appreciated.
There is a plan to organise a BR meet for one Sunday in August(ish) somewhere vaguely near to the centre of London - more details to follow later, watch this space...
HF and I have been thinking about possible venues but the biggest issue is that we need a big and family (i.e. children!) friendly pub, if possible with a beer garden.
I've looked into a few places which have so far turned out not to be suitable and many pubs near to London are catering to the "post-work" lot - definitely no kids.
Does anyone have any good suggestions? Must be close to a tube or train station and easily accessible. Please stick to the subject at hand! Read more
V,
Delicate cough. I don't think you should be posting my legendary drinking exploits on a national forum. Let people turn up and see for themselves!
Mark - let me or Dan know when you *are* in the country and we'll make sure THE DATE falls when you're about. After all we have plenty of days to choose from. Oi and what's wrong with Orpington then eh?
Dan - agree with everything you say and you're doing great in your organisation. I think M's points are worth thinking about, particularly the 'not south London' one.
Being me, I'm not at all sure where is easy to drive to or where isn't. Obviously as has been said it needs to be somewhere both drivable and trainable. As central as possible, of course, sounds best - but would central London be easy for people to drive to? I know I wouldn't do it even if Volvoman had a pint waiting for me at the end of my trip ;)
HF
Browse
you will have to do a drain test, disconnect the earth lead from the battery and get a meter set to the 10 amp setting and bridge the earth lead and earth terminal of battery, take the reading, it should be about .2 to .3 of an amp, open the drivers door and switch on the interior light it should increase slightly, if its higher with nothing on you have a drain somwhere poss. the alternator.