July 2003
On my astra when i am driving the temp stays about 90 and when i drive in town or going uphill the needle moves up to 100 and then settles to 97, is that normal? The needle normally sticks around 3/4 of the way, its a 94 1.4 hi torq 60 bhp engine, can any backchatters give me advice. Read more
I own a 88 Golf GT with 184K on it. I recently borrowed a 88 Audi 90 Quattro for about 3 weeks so I didn't drive my Golf. ;DI went to start it yesterday and it wouldn't turn over. Come to find my battery was completely dead. Tried jumping w/out luck. It will barely turn over and then all electrical (lights, clock, etc.)will die. Like it's taking a huge drain to jump my car. I then have to turn the key to off position and then will be able to make it crank over once.
Any Suggestions? Did my car get jealous? ;)
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I think this point was dealt with above. If you disconnect the broken battery it would probs work fine but leaving the old battry in parallel in the circuit means that the current supplied by the leads takes the line of least resitance into the collapsed battery thus not usefully powering the starter motor
Advice needed on how to tackle the dealer re: this problem. The Brake Fluid warning light came on last week. Opened up the bonnet and the fluid level was below MAX but above the MIN level. About at the MIN-Clutch level actually (about 1 inch about the MIN mark) anyway. I noticed the float thing that detects the level was stuck down so I jiggled it and got it to float up again.
I've just got back from the dealer, where they say that fluid was leaking out of the seal at the bottom, so they've tightened it up - funny that because its just a push-fit- and refilled the fluid level.
The float thing still sticks down if you push it down and you need to pull it to get it to float back up again, and it certainly shows signs of being dirty, which it shouldn't be on a 9 month old car.
In my opinion I think they should have replaced the reservoir, but how do I convice them to do it? And will this fault recur with the level hard up to the MAX level. I guess time will tell, but is there any way to make them change the reservoir?
Help please,
Is it just because its warranty work that they won't change the reservoir or am I being too cynical?
Andy
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thanks for the replys. I'm always in that particular dealer buying parts for my ageing 300 series cars that we still run in the family, so I know the parts people quite well. A quiet word in their left ear seems to suggest that there was a problem with the brake fluid reservoir part order. Either it didn't come in or the wrong part turned up, so they may have just filled it up and sent it away again cos they didn't want to keep the car in?
The guy will hopefully give me more details next week when the techies are in the workshop.
I might give the float pushing down thing a go.
thanks
Andy
I\'ve just bought a N Reg Nissan Primera (yesterday).
Bought it privately, nice people, everything there except that the radio code they noted from the previous owner is not correct. The problem is that the battery has just been replaced and the radio (Blaupunkt Nissan)is crying out for a code I do not have.
Do I have to go to a Nissan dealer or is there a cheaper/quicker/better way?
Thanks
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If it's the factory fitted radio, your dealer should be able to get your code from the maker.I remember Nissan did fit Blaupunkts for a while, then onto Sonys, so you might be lucky.
If it's not, try ringing the previous owner from V5 logbook details. People often write this type of thing down and keep it behind the mantlepiece or somewhere.
If all else fails, look in the Autotrader. You'll see lots of ads for radio decoding, mileage correction, mucky phonecalls etc in one section. Right at the front, or right at the back, depending on where you live.
Good luck mate
No - it's not mine!
In our local Admart (South West) an ad reads thus:
£5000 Reward for information leading to recovery
WJ 51 CRV
New BMW M3 in Phoenix Yellow with Kiwi Leather interior. Stolen from Bridgewater (Somerset) on June 25th 2003. Vehicle now believed to be in Bristol area.
Tel 07860 308872.
Obviously I can't reproduce the picture here but it looks like a 3 door 3 series type body.
If anyone is looking to buy similar, watch out!
With a few of these threads being posted - How about a Stolen Vehicle section in the menu Mark?
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maybe the advertiser was hoping to be offered a M3 for £5k.. "not the one you lost guv but I found it in a ...." :-)
madf
Has anyone experienced problems with their tachos on a Peugeot 306.
Mines is a 93 turbo diesel, and it appears to work intermittently, usually flicks on at higher revs, and cuts off at lower revs.
I have had a look at the hall effect sensor attached next to the flywheel and the wiring to the connector appears fine. I am guessing it's the hall sensor at fault. Giving it a clean has helped somewhat. If anyone has had similar experiences and fixed the problem, I'd be glad to hear from you . Anyone now the rough price of a new hall sensor?
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I had this problem with my '95 DTurbo and I simply replaced the sensor. I got mine from GSF and it was £12.50. (Its listed under Citroen Xantia/ZX speed sensor) Tacho works fine now, no problems at all. It seems to be quite a common problem with the XUD engines.
Ross
Thought I'd share my findings with HJ...
I recently experienced central locking problems on my Peugeot 306 XTDT. When you try and lock the car (either via the remote or via the door key switch), it attempts to lock all doors, but then immediately unlocks all doors. This is a security feature should a door not be closed or locked properly.
As other suggested, this is a fault with either the central locking latch switches or wiring. Trying to find the faulty latch or break in the wire is painstaking and tedious. Typically all these switches are connected in series, so any one single faulty switch will trigger the auto-unlock feature.
After hours of probing around the central locking control unit, I have now been able to identify the closed loop circuit which detects all latches have locked. I have been able to manually bypass the sensors, so the control unit "thinks" that all latches have locked okay. This prevents it from auto-unlocking.
For me, this is acceptable, as all my latches lock okay, and the fault lies within the closed loop sensor circuit. Obviously, now if I leave a door open and lock the car, it still "thinks" its locked okay. For me, this is better than no central locking! Also its not worth me spending a fortune on getting the dealer to change the faulty latches, especially when my car is now 10 years old.
For those interested in my noddy workaround...
Step 1: Locate the central locking unit
On my 306 XTDT 1993 model, the central locking control unit, is behind the rear passenger seat (off-side/driver side). It is NOT under the drivers seat as told by the Haynes manual, that is actually the alarm control unit and engine immobiliser!
Step 2: Remove the unit
The central locking control unit is accessed, by folding the rear-seat and lifting the boots carpet next to the seat edge, where there are three screws. Open these, and pull out the central locking control unit from behind the seat. There is no need to disconnect the electrical connectors.
Step 3: Bypass the sensor circuit
There are two plug connectors, one black and one white, connected to the unit. To bypass the latch sensor circuit, connect a wire between M623(yellow/green wire) and 6293(blue wire), both of these wires come out of the black connector. All this can be done with the connector in situ.
Black connector
M623: yellow/green wire in corner of connector
6293: blue wire in same row as above, one hop away.
By shorting this circuit, it effectively closes the loop circuit, telling the control unit that all latches are locked okay.
Hay Presto, you have now disabled the pesky auto unlock feature! Try it by leaving a door open and locking the car, it will lock, but not auto-unlock. You could use this method to identify which lock is actually at fault, as any lock which opens after locking is the culprit.
Hope it works for you
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Hi!
I have had my 306 for about a year now and just wanted to get the fob on my key to work. Since I had purchased it, as told by the previous owner, just needed changing batteries. I got sum batteries, and tried both remote controls but non of them work - not even the LED's on the keys. Do you think that this is the circuit board gone? I rang Peugeot and they said around about £150 for a new key fob. I thought that price was ridiculous.
Anyway, I went and bought a new reeiver unit with new remotes that is to be used with the current central locing, which by the way is immaculately working when unlocking with the key in the door. I do not know about the alarm, but I think that works too.
I tried to connect the central locking box myself, as I do have some knowledge in electronis, but the cable numbers on the wiring diagram from the Haynes manual does not match the cable numbers in the car. I do not know what to do now. Does anyone have the correct wiring diagram?
Really want this to work, but I dont know what to do. I have been to see some people that fit alarm systems, but they would not do it as it is not purchased from them and they wanted something stupid like £400. I nearly laughed out loud.
Anyway, if anyone has a suggestion, please help me by posting a comment here, or write to me at svetlinski_2@hotmail.co.uk
Thanks for reading!
Emanuil
I've got my 1992 Rover SLI. I bought it 3years old from a leasing company second hand at auctions cost £3500. It had 52000 miles on the clock. The car now has 118,000 miles on the clock that i've done. The majority of my miles now done traveling England to Spain where I know live. She's never gone to the garage. I do the basic yearly service. Now! my baby has developed a cough! and I'm still in spain. I've confidence she would make it back mechanically wise. The engines not leaking water. I just need some help diagnosing what the fault may be.
The symtoms are asthough the car is gasping for oil or air. I can almost feel her choking to beath. Twice she has coughed to a stall. Now it may be another problem but the exhaust has black try carbon more than she's ever had. the Spark plugs are coated around the edge with black dry powdered carbon. although the central part is nicely colour beige, as a good firing spark usually is. THe car runs a dream until I get this stuttering. Thats why I think the engine is ok ie moving mechanics are as normal.
Last year I had a Drive belt change, first Ever. long over due could this be the root cause of my problems? Maybe a timing error could cause these symtoms. When shes idling sometimes The Engine management, ( I beleive) is trying to conpensate and the revs go up to 2000 for a second or so, but slowly reduces. The power loss is in all gears, and only this week power lost so much she stalled again, there was some black/greyish smoke comming out the back, then she cut out. I started her up again, and the revs picked up to constant idling and she was spat out the blak smoke and ran perfectly again! It's quite interemittent, Funnily always fine first think in the morning. Spain is quuit hot so maybe the heat affects so thermal bi-metalic strip detector or something! Air filter is new, spark plugs only 6 months from new. Look good and normal spark witdh but now there getting to much fuel I suppose!. The exhaust no is nicely coated in jet black soot! around the outside edges
What do you think guys. I just want to try some test you suggest to try find out if I can narrow the fault before the first visit to this garage. or have an idea what the solution could be, options are always nice. Luckilly theres a Rover Dealer 20 miles away. they don't have a diagnostic tools but can order once from there sister garage temorarily, so the mechanic say. He's gonna do that next week, unfortunatly My spainsh is not to good, so i'm looking to get informed with your help before going over there.
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Well, The car diagnosed no problems on the Rover Diagnostic COmputer. The cap and spindle got changed. and still the same problem. Then changed the sensor for the coolant. Suprisingly still the same problem.
So the fuel filter was changed and cleaned the feed pipes and resevoir and hey voila! the car is breathing properly again!
I can't say what part got blocked or clogged exactly.
It would be interesting to know, but I couldn't go to the garage and ask myself, I had to get my girlfriend to collect it. And she admits she couldn't understand the answer she would have been given!
Thanks guys for your help. Those parts are now replaced with new. thats cost very little. So thats a comfort to know I shouldn't have to worry about them for another 7 years or so ;). And the car feel great to drive, I'm sure the cap and spindle have a big part to play on that improvement. thanks again for your solid advice!
hello all, has anyone had a snapped balance shaft belt which has got under the cam belt and caused it to jump a few teeth on a 1991 shogun 2.5 td. can i expect bent valves or is it a safe engine ? Read more
According to Autodata the 2.5 Shotgun engine is not safe if belt breaks however if the belt has only jumped two or three teeth you may be lucky. Fit new belts and hold your breath!
If it had failed and it were mine I wouldn't bother repairing the engine because of the danger of subsequent engine failure from unseen damage elsewhere in the engine, but would source a known guaranteed unit from the jap engine importers and fit that (with new belts, water pump, guides and tensioners).
Andrew.
Simplicate and add lightness!
I hope to purchase a new Citroen Picasso in the near future and am tempted by some of the prices offered by one or two of the internet dealers (e.g. Drive the Deal) for UK sourced cars. What has been the experience of other readers and who would you recommend? Read more
I bought my Passat through Drivethedeal.com (I have no connection other than as a customer). They secured the extra discount [plus a bit more] from the same dealer chain that the sales rep flatly denied existed (the extra two grand off at the end of last year) and I only paid them the first £500 deposit (on credit card) - thereafter all payments were secured through the main dealer and the car was delivered on time and in order.
My preference is always to negotiate myself [it's the best part of the transaction to take the dealer to the edge and then try to push him off it as you play brinkmanship] and get a car for better than the best deal I can find on the net, in the magazines or wherever. On this occasion, even using another VW dealer could not get me within £300 of drivethedeal.com's price - as such i know not to look a gift horse in the mouth.
In my experience, they were professional, courteous and did exactly what they said on the tin [apologies if any IP counsel are hawking]. I am in the market for a new TT 150 convertible for the G/F for Christmas and I will certainly be checking with drivethedeal.com in that hunt.
So far as I can see, the downsides [potential] are no part-ex [but the selling is again the best part of parting with a set of wheels] and you have to sort your own finance [if you need it] - that is easy enough provided you go into a dealership forearmed and ask then to match it [remember to get them to drop the document fees - they will do it when pushed].
I have also bought a Honda in the last twelve months and managed to get an extra £500 out of a supposedly minimally discountable model (a Civic Vision 5dr petrol for under £10500 last Sept.) plus by selling the old Civic private secured an extra £750 over trade part ex.
My next attempt will be getting a 1999V Boxster 2.7 manual in the right spec from a Porsche dealer for a mate at the right price - now that will be a challenge.
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Sajid, if you look at the gauge markings you will see that it doesnt even start until 70 deg +
Andrew
Simplicate and add lightness!