May 2003
I am a little confused as to which oil to use in my Ford Escort 1.3 Endura (1997).
Handbook with car says 5/30 ford spec oil as does Haynes Manual, however Halfords application sheet gives oil as 10/40.
As this is basically an old design engine I would of thought 10/40 or 15/40 would be the oil to use.
Can anyone shed any light on this Read more
When the colour of engine oil changes from clear to brown does that mean it\'s absorbed as much muck as possible?
The reason I ask is that I change my oil & filter regularly - every 5k to be specific. I rarely use the car for short-distance
My oil changes to brown within a matter of weeks of the change!
Any ideas why this is the case?? Read more
Just a thought... Try an engine oil flush. If the engine has been run for excessive time between oil changes, there can be excessive soot and muck retained by the engine - it won't all come out when the hot oil runs out of the sump plug hole. I had this on my s/h Corolla. Oil went very dark with 1000 miles. Used engine flush (Wynns, I think) and now the oil stays a sort of new, gold colour for 4000 miles.
Hi all,
I picked up a new car a couple of weeks ago and it\'s first job was to take me to the airport for a two week holiday the very next day.
When i returned to the long stay car park yesterday the car was dead as a dodo with a totally flat battery!
The car is a polo - no alarm - and the VW assistance bloke who came out when i got the car home said that it was normal for a battery to run down over 2 weeks, although the manual with the car says it should be ok for 4 weeks.
What do other BR-ers think - and what remedy would you suggest? Is it possible that the thing wasn\'t fully charged when new, or is it likely to be a duff battery in the first place?
Thanks,
CF Read more
Amin,
Although it was indeed the next day that i left it at the airport, I had actually put 200 miles on it on friday night / saturday morning, which I would have thought should have charged it up?
Hello to you all, I hope you can help me......
Does anyone have an OMEGA 2.5 TURBO DIESEL AUTOMATIC and if so can you tell me if the problem Im having occurs with your car, the reason I ask is one person tells me its right, and another tells me its wrong... Ahhhhhhhhhh !
THE PROBLEM - when driving at all various speeds the car handles a treat until you take your foot off of the accelerator, then the rev counter immediatley drops back down to idle speed (around 700 rpm) and there appears to be no engine braking at all, Down hills especially with foot covering brake pedal it feels like car is in "n" position and coasting.
(there is no pulling back from the engine, like clutch is depressed)
When travelling on a flat road at about 50 mph I took my foot off the accelerator and down went the needle to 700 rpm then replace foot and needle returns to previous position with no apprent loss of power ????
Any idea's please....
ALSO PASTED IN DISCUSSION
Read more
ALSO PASTED IN DISCUSSION
There is no need to post to both Forums as most people read both anyway. If anyone wishes to reply to Scooby's question, it's here:- www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=2&t=12...2
This thread is write locked.
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Dynamic Dave
Back Room Moderator
mailto:dave_moderator@honestjohn.co.uk
Read in yesterdays Sunday Times about traffic police monthly targets. Each officer has to achieve a set number of tickets for
No seat belts, speeding, number plate offences, etc etc. There was a target number for each offence. Unamed officers were said to be a tad angry about it. It was Thames Valley from memory.
So watch out on the M4 at the end of the month! Read more
The speed restrictions on the A1174 from Beverley to Hull and then along the A1079 from Dunswell into Hull were brought about due to the dispropotionate ammount of injury accidents on that stretch of road, plain and simple. Not only the Police but to a greater extent the local council has a duty by engineering and Police enforcement to try and reduce accidents. Casualty reduction is o performance indicator for the Police. Those accidents have reduced substantially although I do not know the figures. So the objective has been achieved.
On a personal basis though I have to agree that the limits on sections are frustratingly low.
Fullchat
I'm going to look at and test drive an Subaru Impreza Hatchback this evening. M Reg, 1.8, 4WD, 98K. Asking price £2400 (which seems a bit high according to Parker's.) A local private sale.
It looks very nice, no dings or scratches, and clean interior. Nice colour too - pale green metallic.
Are there any Impreza owners out there who could give me some pointers/questions to ask the seller?
I'll be looking for FSH and evidence of cambelt renewal etc., I've checked HJ's car by car breakdown - are there any other special points I should be looking for?
Thanks in anticipation,
P. Read more
Strange choice of car if you don't need the 4WD. Use lots of fuel (relatively speaking) due the 4wd and need more servicing than most cars. Probably less "exciting" to drive that the Civic.
Have a look at the FAQs on www.scoobynet.co.uk and www.sidc.co.uk
for more info.
If you like to buy and run older cars, I'm thinking in the region of, L(93/94), M(94/95) and N(95/96) with something around 100K miles for around £1000, and you would like the following qualities
1). A workhorse.
2). Reasonably good styling.
3). Reliable and good to run for another 100K.
In my opinion, and I am pleased to be corrected, there are a few cars that stand out from the rest of the pack. Ones that come to mind are Cavalier, Mondeo, Astra, Escort, Rover 200/400. (I'm sure there are others)
My questions are:-
1). Taking into account the problems with cars like the Vectra , you know its true Dave:-). In 8 - 10 years, what cars would you recommend and have stood the test of time?
2). Do you think that the new technology like the common Rail diesel engines will 'go the distance'?
Remember, these must be cars that you will use and put another 100K on the clock, and not to restore as classics. Read more
I'd like to nominate my Xantia 1.9TD :) 152k...
Does anyone have any experience of the CVT transmission used in Nissan Primera Mk3 cars (99 - 02)?
I've read the car-by-car breakdown and nothing's flagged up there apart from it being slow setting off.
What's it like to drive, and what's its reputation for reliability? (I don't think we're talking about the same thing as the old Micra CVT).
I currently drive a conventional auto but with a big engine (Ford Scorpio) - I previously had an auto in a Mondeo 2.0 and hated it.
As far as the Primera itself goes, I'm very familiar with it; it's just the gearbox I'm interested in.
Cheers Read more
To continue about NS1 [the ATF Nissan say must be used] :
...
OK then the new Fez that I'm getting won't have an alarm fitted, but does have the standard Thatcham Cat 2 immobiliser.
What would Backroomers recommend as an alarm system, preferably a Thatcham Cat 2 - 1 upgrade?
I have a Laserline system on my current Fez but wouldn't have another as it has been too unreliable.
I've been offered a Meta Thatcham system from a respected local dealer for £190, anyone any advice on these systems? I've only ever really heard of Clifford and Toad as big names...
Does anyone know of websites that have reviews of different alarm systems.
Over to you lot :)
Blue Read more
Not the one I've got, but if you're into gadgets !!!!
www.autopageusa.com/autopageusars750.htm
How about "Discrete temperature sensor that communicates in-car temperature via LCD remote" - very posey.
I think this is the one I got:- (for bikes)
www.cyclesecurity.com/stealguard_frameset.htm
When I replace my Xantia (For no reason other than I fancy a bit more kit really), I'd like to replace it with a facelift model. A 98R/S 1.9TD SX would do me perfectly.
What can I expect one of these to go for at auction do you think? I find the price guides way out at Xantia prices, so thought I'd ask some people who know what they are doing.
Mileage is of no concern to me - my current one is 152k and running fine, but I do want one that's in reasonable condition externally so I can spend all weekend polishing it and not think 'Don't know why I bothered, bit of a state really' ;)
Any ideas?
Ta. Read more
As a matter of interest, I traded in my 9 year old (L Reg) Sx 1.8 petrol Xantia for the new C5 last May (105,000 miles on clock) and got £1350 for it, as well as the full cashback deals on the C5. I reckon I got a pretty good deal. Of course I was trading in for a much more expensive car (C5 2.2 Exclusive) and that was 'going back to Citroen'. What a non Cit dealer might have offered is another matter!
Graeme
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I,ve been using 10W/40 Magnatec for the last 5 Years. I haven,t burnt a drop or had problems (kiss of death, that comment ). I do change my oil every 3000miles though. I know everyone says you can do much higher mileages than this but the oil always looks dirty when I change it, so as far as I am concerned it must be contaminated. My car is a 97 Escort fitted with an Endura - E engine. My current mileage is 65,000. When I glanced at the hand book I assumed that 5W-30 was for hydraulic tappets. I just took the other figures without properly reading it.