May 2003
Volkswagen Transporter 2000
1982
The car is in first class order and the engine has only done 81,000 miles in 21 years.
When starting it after some 5 months rest, the engine runs evenly when idling, but has no power whatsoever when driven.
It will start off normal but as soon one accelerates it, it looses power and would not drive faster than 40m/h, showing an uneven run with slight backfiring with foot off the pedal.
Ignition is ok, new spark plugs has been fitted, HT leads tested, carburetor cleaned, idling adjusted.
Any ideas?
Thanks Peter
petervm@lineone.co.uk Read more
Today, you may have noticed, is Sunday.
This is an important day of the week for our local council, as it is the only day they can get out onto the roads, and pick up the rubbish, dead dogs, change blown lightbulbs on streetlamps etc.
However, today it is also persisting down with rain here, and we have an satanic black-overcast at about 200 feet, as well as patchy ground mist. Visibility is down to about 50 yards in places.
Hence we have absolute chaos on the [quiet] roads as, looming out of the mist, there is either a dead dog wagon or a 'cherry picker' stopped to do this essential work. No vehicle lights, a crew of disgruntled workers wearing minimal reflective materials and no bollards/warning lamps.
I also wonder about the logic of changing lamps on such a wet day - they turn on ALL the lamps, so the workers can see which are blown, then hoist the poor man up on the cherry picker, in the howling wind, where he has to wrestle with a lamp, and 'as any fule kno' water and electricity don't mix too well ...
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At least the excuse from the local council. "Can't do it in the rain - Health and Safety you know". Effective policy in writing off at least 50% of the working week.
Hello there, I'm a first time poster - but was recommended this site by a friend who says there's a lot of decent people here - I'd really appreciate any help on an insurance matter. I've got a lot of things happening at the moment, so I'm after the easiest solution.
Details are below, I'm after any advice on the following (I know I'm asking a lot - I'm a new driver and have not had any incidents before, any small snippets of advice are welcomed)
1. We're both keen to avoid the insurance companies, I haven't built up any no claims bonus yet and don't want to be penalised by a claim, even though I'm entirely innocent.
2. Ideally I'd like to be reimbursed for my loss when selling in 18 months time and do a fix-up job myself for now.
3. If I go through my own or the other party's insurance - what's the risk of them writing off my car if the damage is too expensive? I don't want the hassle of looking for a new one, and couldn't replace it with one as good.
4. Will a garage make a reasonable job, or can I fix the damage cheaply myself? (I'm reasonably handy).
5. Any pitfalls for handling this type of incident? (obviously I get the money up front - do i ask for cash? garage account paid up front? What if the cost is more than the estimate?)
All the best,
Glen
Details: J reg Honda Civic Saloon, good condition for age, low rust. Insured for 750 pounds, comprehensive, 0 no claims bonus (new driver), no protected discount.
Bump:
My car was hit while unattended in a car park. A witness saw the incident, and it appears the person drove into it at 45 degrees from the rear. It must have been at quite a speed as my car was pushed forward at least half a metre - and I found it against the front kerb (nestled in a small hedge...) The culprit left contact details, which checked out.
Legal:
I informed the police and received a call number (not a crime number). When I visited the station they confirmed that we should sort it out between ourselves and/or insurance companies. I rang my insurance's legal advice line, who advised me to go through my own insurance for minimum hassle, which will ultimately claim from the other party. However, this is in their financial interest, as when pressed they said my future NCD was at some risk because their policy is "no claim, not no blame" - their words.
The culprit is keen to pay for my damages, and I've said I will get an estimate on Tuesday and take it from there.
Damage:
The plastic bumper is compacted over about 400mm, but not cracked. The metal has been pushed in sufficiently to see from inside the boot, but I'm not sure if the floorpan has been bent, or just the bumber pegs have pushed it in slightly. The boot is slightly bent (less than 5mm) but will still close fine (it brushes a bit on the rubber seals though). Other than that, there's no damage to the paintwork and the car is driveable (although, it's embarassing to me - it looks like I've reversed into a bollard). Read more
If there are any protruding or sharp projections on the car then it will most likely fail.<<
It will fail and before you get to the Testing Station Plod will have sheeted you for using a vehicle, the parts etc were in such condition as likely to cause danager.
DVD
This question is probably "how long is a piece of string" but I'll give it a go anyway.
I have a 2.1 diesel Renault Trafic van which was converted to a Camper Van from new. It is 1992 and done 48,000 miles.
I have been told the van is under powered for a 2.1 diesel. I can get 60mph out of it but I presumed this was because it was a heavy vehicle. Other Camper Van owners, with the same model and conversion, claim to get 75mph out of theirs.
Where do I start diagnostics ??? The van has just had a full service and timing belt changed but I still only get 55 - 60mph out of it. Also, at start up, there is a lot of white smoke coming out of the exhaust which clears after a few mins. Oil level is okay and so is the coolant level. The engine is also quite erratic at start up but once warm, is okay. Someone suggested that I should change all of the glow plugs as one maybe faulty - would this make any difference.
I seems to "drink" quite a bit of diesel as well but maybe this is because I am recently doing a lot of short stop/start journeys in it.
Thank for any help. Excellent forum by the way - much more useful than my local garage. Read more
The question to ask here is - has it always been that way? If the answer is no - then start looking for the reason. As mentioned, dont take everyone elses assertions of top speed as gospel, it could be "mine is bigger than yours" syndrome
I notice on several forums, persons looking for help with problems with the Tipo's digital display, fading out, only partially working, going off when a door is opened, etc, etc.
Recently a contributor mentioned a heatsink mod which cured the fault, the component being available through Maplin Electronics. There was also mention of an extra earth wire ( or perhaps more than one ) being added.
Does anyone remember these or can anyone offer any confirmation please ?
Thank you, petel@clara.co.uk Read more
I've always hankered after a large, 6 cylinder car. Until now I've always been scared off by insurance costs. However, now that I'm getting old and past it I've found that I can get very cheap insurance on this sort of car...so I'm gonna go for it.
I'm pretty poor so I'm only looking to spend around £1000 to £1500 max, but I don't do a huge amount of miles per annum..less than 8000 a year.
I'd like something with lots of toys, like air con and stuff, and I've started looking at Vauxhall Omegas, cos I like the styling and I've heard they are a nice drive. I've seen lots of nice looking examples in my price range...for instance, I saw a nice N reg 2.5 CD model with 100K miles for £1200...but it sold before I got a chance to look at it.
Anybody know if the Omega is a bad idea?...and if so can anyone suggest an alternative?
Thanks...Gubba. Read more
Cool!!...is the Ford 2.5 V6 a pretty robust engine then if its been serviced regular?...also, am I right in thinking that there is no timing belt to worry about on this engine?...(chain driven??)
I bought it mainly because I thought to myself if it blows up in a few months then it isn't really the end of the world having only paid £700 for it.
There is a strange feeling that runs down the back of the spine when I blip the throttle of the V6 that I just didnt get with any of my previous 4 cylinder cars...the growl it makes is sort of primordial...I'm sure I'm much more of a "real man" now I drive a V6! ;-)
It is reported in the Daily Mail that a pilot scheme in Merseyside, North Wales & Scotland is underway to slap prohibition notices on any vehicle with heavy tints on front side windows or windscreen. Scheme is to be rolled out natiomwide within months.
It is long overdue.
It is suggested that the trigger was a case in Feb where a biker was killed and the car driver allegedly did not see the bike due to tinted windows.
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Sorry, I was wrong about the windscreen - should be minimum 75% light trasmission and max 25% tint - see below
The below summary is from the Department for Transport website, but there is a disclaimer stating the their interpretation should not necessarily be classed as law.
Regulations 31 & 32 of the Road Vehicles (Construction & Use) Regulations 1986 (as amended).
LIGHT TRANSMISSION OF GLAZING - Summary of requirements
Motor vehicles first used between 1/6/1978 and 31/3/1985 must have windows which allow at least 70% of light to pass through. Motor vehicles first used on or after 1/4/1985 must have windscreens which allow at least 75% of light to pass through - all other windows must admit at least 70% of light.
These requirements do not apply to:
any part of the windscreen outside the ?vision reference zone? (as defined in C&U# Regulation 32(13));
windows through which the driver is unable, at any time, to see the road;
windows in ambulances which are behind the driver?s seat;
windows in buses, goods vehicles, locomotives or motor tractors which are behind the driver?s seat (except those which face the rear - as defined by C&U# Regulation 32(12) - or which form all or part of an exterior door); and
windows in cars which are fitted behind the driver?s seat and which bear an ?e? mark indicating type approval to the European glazing Directive 92/22/EC.
Tinted film
C&U# Regulation 32 does not specifically prohibit any window from having a tinted film applied, but a window with a tinted film which takes light transmittance levels below those specified above could be interpreted as contravening the Regulation.
If a vehicle's windows were excessively tinted by the use of stick-on film or a spray, there may be a contravention of C&U# Regulation 30. This requires that all glass or other materials fitted must be maintained in such a condition that it does not obscure the vision of the driver. Again, it does not specifically prohibit those windows from having a tinted film applied, but doing so could be interpreted as contravening the Regulation.
Filled up today at a BP station in Lincolnshire with unleaded @ 72.9p/litre. Thought it was a mistake at first (!) - has this happened throughout the UK, and, if so, what has triggered it? Read more
Thanks Rich and teabelly
I had (briefly) thought of additives, but I generally only put £10 worth of petrol at a time. The small mileage I do does not warrant big fill ups and I have better things to do with my money than have it sloshing round a petrol tank!!!!
I think that you and me should get together, teabelly, and thrash out a few designs! I'd happily buy a product that you could just throw in the tank and forget about!
Cheers
Rob
Recently been looking around at used Merc C Class. Spotted a nice example - 99V C180 Elegance 5 spd tip auto with low miles. Imagine my surprise when making further enquiries to discover it had no air con. I'm amazed they were turning these cars out at 25k new in 1999 without a/c. Worse still, they want 12k for one now! Apparently a/c was always an option on the old shape C180 Read more
I got the sport beacause it had nicer wheels ( not AMG but nice )the interior was nicer with carbon fiber trim, sports front seats ( very comfy), lovely ivory coloured dials that all lit up orange and it sat a little lower so had an overall sportier appearance. The only problem with it was the ride was a little bit too hard for our roads. It is not as comfortable as the elegance because of the suspension but it handled very well.
I see the car most weekends as my freind has it and it still looks a stunning motor. In fact it looks so good I can't work out why I got a new car and sold it.
I'm off to have a little cry now.
VAG's new Euro IV 2.0 TDi engine is appearing in the A3 and the VW Touran.
Does anyone know if/when it is expected in the Sharan, I can have one on the company car scheme and the tax saving is significant
Thanks Read more
No hard information but the A3 and Touran are both based on the same platform as the Golf V.
The Sharan, on the other hand, has been around since 95 and although it doesn't feel particularly dated, it is likely to be replaced with a car based on the T5 platform that has already produced the Cravelle and will produce the Microbus. Alternatively it could share a platform with the next Passat due within 2 years.
Knowing VW's tendency to introduce a new diesel engine and let it trickle down through the range, I would be surprised if that engine ever made it into the Sharan before it's replaced, which is likely to be in two years or so. This is all speculation and if anyone has any hard information I will bow to them, but my money is on the current 130bhp diesel engine remaining the top option for as long as it's in production.
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VW Van engine problems
Thank you for your suggestions and help.
You were absolutely right, it had to do with fuel starvation.
I suddenly remembered that the car had a chassis treatment in October last year and the symptoms appeared soon after that.
Somehow some dirt may have gone into the pipelines, or the air intake may have been blocked.
I found a reliable small garage that was prepared to look at such an old car (Volkswagen UK refused to do anything) and we have changed fuel pipes, inline fuel filter (virtually blocked) , checked the pump, (fine) float valve, (clean) and finally cleaned the carburettors. The car is ok now.
Many thanks again!
Regards
Peter