February 2003

scruffythedog118

I'm considering buying a car with an irish registration mark, from a garage in Essex - can anyone advise me,

1. How can I be sure that it actually is a 1996 model on a P plate as being advertised ?

2. can I drive round with this irish reg. mark or do I need to re-register the car with dvla to continue use in GB ?

3. If I want to re-register the car as a P reg, how do I do this and how much does it cost ?

4. will this be classed as an imported car (for insurance and other reasons)

Many thanks
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T Lucas

With the NI reg doc you/dealer can register the car with DVLA,you can keep the NI reg No or you can have an age related DVLA No.I do this regularly(for a friend that buys NI reg cars from Blackbushe,we put a DVLA No on and i keep the NI reg No)There are no charges other than Road Tax to register the car with DVLA.

fred_bloggs2

Someone I know passed their driving test years ago (like 20+) and got their full license. 10+ years ago they submitted their license for a change of address but they now realise that the license never came back.
Talking to the DVLA, the DVLA now says that there was never a full license issued and that they'll have to re-do the test, apply for a license etc. etc.
The DVLA says it's not possible that the full license was ever issued.

Does anyone know whether or not insurance companies run your license details when you're insured? Seems to me it'd be a pretty sizeable loophole if you can be insured without actually being licensed..?

Any idea of another way to try to work out what the license details were?

Clearly there's been a muckup in the system but without independant verification that a license was in place, it seems likely the DVLA can just deny its existance until the cows come home..
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malteser

Compared with Trafico in Spain, the DVLA are models of efficiency!

It routinely takes three months minimum for a replacement paper driving licence with at least FIVE for a plastic photo type. The silly thing is that if they cannot issue the real thing in a month they send a temporary one, as a small typed & stamped card, which says they still have your old licence, to you. (Is this recognised in the UK for car hire and by Plod - is it heck as like).
DUH!
Surely it takes just the same in person hours & postage to send a temporary licence as to produce & send the proper one?

Roger. (Costa del Sol, España)

Toad, of Toad Hall.

Anyone give me the name & number of a dealer that will give me the code for the R660 radio on my 416 from the chassis number *by phone*?

Anyone tell me how to program in into the R660?

Thanks in advance!
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads. Read more

Toad, of Toad Hall.

These radio\'s are a piece of **** to remove with the
right tools.


But slightly harder with four large paperclips...
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
hopy

Can anyone help with a problem I'm having with my 99(V) 1.6 Zafira? What has happened on a few occasions is the engine suddenly lost power after a long journey involving over 1 1/2 hours of motorway/dual carriageway driving. I believe it is caused by fuel starvation as there are no warning lights or signs of overheating. When I pull over the engine then dies. To get going again all it takes is a twist of the filler cap to let air in and then everythings fine!
I think it is normal to have a vacuum build up but believe there too much of a vacuum in this case.
The car was serviced last month but the Vauxhall dealer failed to sort the problem - all they suggested was to replaced the fuel filter which didn't cure the problem.
Has anyone heard of this problem before, or know if there are any vents in the fuel sysytem I can check? Although this is an annoying fault, I am concerned that it could happen whilst overtaking or in the outside lane of a busy motorway as the loss of power comes without warning; the only way to prevent this is to drive with the filler cap slightly loose!
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chilemad

I had the exact same problem. Initially I was told by an official dealership that the problem was down to a faulty EGR valve that was choking the engine; I replaced the EGR valve but the problem was still there. The fault was so awkward! No indication or warning was given when the fault appeared, the car seemed to go into a 'safe' mode and lost power gradually. The car would not restart until, i presumed, the car had cooled down.

A seperate dealership plugged my Zafira into a diagnostice setup and saw immediately that the ECU was faulty. I was quoted nearly £1000 for a replacement but found one on Ebay for £350, programmed with two key chips and the ignition transponder. I had to provide a few details online as to which spec. my Zafira was. I then had to pay my local garage to install the ECU which cost £100....

mal

Just wondering if todays cars are still made with steel brake pipes fitted.

Lives depend so much on the brakes you would think they would be
made of a material that does not rust, in fact I think there should be legislation to enforce this.

In my "bangernomics" days my local garage always used Kunifer pipes which is a material used in the marine/ofshore oil industry and is very resistant to salt attack.
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Big John

Or Er indoors 19 year old polo, owned from new but recentley sold, all the metal brake pipes were original as they had been greased every year by myself. It should also be noted that they can also eventually rust internally it#f the brake fluid is not changed regularly.

I dont think there is anything you can do about the longevity of flexible brake hoses though?

156v6

Me again with the 1995 306 D Turbo.

I have a smokey problem on startup.

When starting from cold, there is no smoke for the first minute or so, then suddenly clouds of the stuff (greyish) come out till it's heated up. Once its heated up, the smoke stops completely again and it runs well.

My first thought was the glow plugs, so I've just finished replacing them (a real pain in the butt), and the problem is still there.

Any suggestions anyone as to where to look next??

Thanks,

Phil Read more

solara

I replaced my original glow plugs on my 306 at 120,000 miles (9 years old). They werent actually causing me a problem, but I thought it was time. On checking them, all four glow plugs were still okay. Of course mileage isn't a good indicator, as more wear and tear is caused by many short stop and start intervals.

Mark (RLBS)

Thread closed, please see version VII for further discussion.

www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=12753&...f

Speeding (mostly excl cameras) V is now closed and this thread has been started.

For the continued discussions around the subject of speeding, usually excluding cameras which are in another thread.

Older versions will not be deleted, so there is no need to repost any old stuff.


Mark (RLBS)
Moderator at Work

mailto:mark_moderator@honestjohn.co.uk Read more

Mark (RLBS)

Thread now closed. Please see "Speeding (mostly excl cameras) VII" for continued discussion. M.

M.M

Mark perhaps you would be good enough to leave this under its own heading for today before it eventually goes into the \"I have a question\" thread.

I can\'t do that David, but I did restart the \"I have a question\" thread so that this query was at the front. I hope that will suffice. Mark.

Cordless digital phones are doing my head in. Has anyone any good experiences with a particular brand/type?

When they first came out we had a BT one made by Siemens, it had a superb range, excellent sound...it just did the job. That got broken after it fell from the roof of my car (?) and since we\'ve tried units from BT, Phillips and NTL. None of them have been nearly as good as that first one and two so unreliable as to be useless.

The 4 month old twin-set we have at present has just failed due to reception difficulties on one handset and failure of the main \"answer\" button on the other. The makers helpline seemed to hint that they know of faults with this model so no way am I accepting a same type replacement.

I am so reluctant to go out and buy another without some advice.

Panasonic do one I can get on offer at the moment, might they be any better?

Comments much appreciated.

MM Read more

Mark (RLBS)

pulling the volumes together.

steveb

Hi,

Just thought I'd share my experiences today.

Decided through reading the posts that a 20k service/oil interval on my 2.2 Vectra was too long given the risk to the cam chain failing so decided to go for an interim change today.

Hopped to Halfords this am to source fully synthetic c£26 and filter £7 - Total £34. However was only charged c£25k - don't know whether there was a promotion on today or just a mischarge ...?

Getting home found out that the new filter which was basically the same size and shape, had different plastic mouldings top and bottom - it is the new type 'cartridge' filter for the new all alloy engine in the Vectra. Didn't want to risk it however so was forced to get along to the local Vauxhall dealer for a "real" filter - this was £4 .... what are Halfords up to ? It was definitely the correct filter from the datasheet.

To cut a long story short, what should have been a <20 minute job turned into a 2 1/2 hour nightmare after "losing" the sump nut in the oil drain can ...

Steve

PS Respect to the crew and families of Columbia. Read more

Dan J

Thanks for the response John - Interesting comments re A3 and B3, I had obviously misunderstood what these meant. Still most odd that Vauxhall have changed their minds as regarding oil for the same engine fitted to newer Vectras!

The oil Vauxhall refer to is simply rebranded xxxx oil (prob Texaco or Mobil) but what was being stipulated wasn't to use their own oil, it just had to meet the new GM standards. The document states that the diesels would go up to 50000km between changes - unbelievable!

My original Vectra was bought 8 months old with 13k on the clock and I had requested that on buying the car the oil would be changed along with the Network Q service. My own fault for not checking but the garage failed to do this and it wasn't until 18k when that this was undertaken. You should have seen the state of the oil - black water with the occasional thick bit in it. What a car would be like 100k down the road after that kind of abuse I can only imagine.

wickedbuffy

Can anybody help? I have just removed the rear disc pads on my Seat. I cannot force back the piston because the handbrake must have some sort of ratchet adjustment mechanism which moves the piston closer to the disc as the pads wear. How do I reset this rathet so that I can fully retract the piston and fit new pads? I've donw loads of front pads before but never back ones.
Thanks. Read more

Andrew Moorey (Tune-Up)

Spot on Laurie. I usually drop the handbrake cables off the levers to make sure that the handbrake mechanism is fully off. Spray WD40 onto the rubber piston boot to let the piston rotate without snagging.Once the new pads are in (make sure that they are not tight in the carrier, if not, file the paint off until they are an easy fit) and the caliper refitted start the engine (for the servo) and press out the pads to contact the discs, then refit the handbrake cables, you should find that the cables slip in relatively easily and the levers on the calipers should stay in the fully off position. If the levers dont return fully the brakes wont work properly.
Good luck
Andrew





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