February 2003
Been looking at a Clio to replace my wife's 205 diesel - seen a nice one, P/96, 63k, four door 1.9 RT, with PAS and lecky windows. It's a local dealer, so there's a lot of boxes ticked. Now the screen price is 3250, he won't entertain any offer below 3000. It's been on the forecourt for several months now, would I be daft to give him the three grand he's after?
I'm keeping the little Pug,so there's no trade-in to consider, just a cash sale. I've been looking around for a while, and this car is the one that most suits what we're looking for. I'd really like to buy it, and at 2750 I'd be happy to hand over the dosh. Grateful for any advice please.
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I have a problem with my heater fan. It only works on the highest setting (3). Settings 1 and 2 don't work. Is this likely to be 1) the fan motor 2) the switch 3) the resistor net work for settings 1 and 2. ...and where is the resistor network for the fan motor located?
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It is highly probably the resistor/connections at the resistor which is mounted on the left hand side of the fan unit. Regards Peter
Took the astra in yesterday to get a leak in the exhaust fixed.
the thing blows when cold, but quietens down when warm, so I assume a hairline crack.
By the time I get to exhaust shop, it's all quiet, as the car has heated up.
Up on the lift, the bloke looks underneath, holds hosepipe near ear, and near exhaust...
Car is running, and heats up to the degree that the fan kicks in ...
Bloke can't hear anything, so lowers car, opens bonnet, starts delving around with hosepipe...
leans forward, reaches hand down to steady himself... brrrrrrrrrr as it hits the rapidly-spinning fan ...
makes a mess of three fingers, blood all over the engine compartment ....
this despite the large DANGER/GEVAAR/INGOZI sticker on the cowling above the fan ... (in case people speak other languages)
to cut a long story short, another bloke took over, while moron #1 was dashed to hospital... And I got the crack welded for the price of two beers.
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When I was an apprentice at the local bus company (100`s of years ago), we got a breakdown call-out saying that a bus had lost its fan belt. When we got there it was surrounded with police and an ambulance. The bus driver had attempted to replace the belt(s)with the engine running and lost his hand.
I am having a problem with SWMBO's zx volcane. The MOT test in n Ireland is now very thorough and is computer controlled. Breaking on all wheels must be even. The volcane has failed the mot twice because one rear wheel brakes more than the other it now has a 60% imbalance. New discs and pads fitted all round. I am also going to replace the rear offending caliper and also replace one of the pressure regulating valves.
has anyone any tips on how to get the rear brakes right and also how to test the success of any work done without taking it for yet another mot. Read more
Did the work on the zx last night, firstly replaced the regulator valve then bled the system. Thought that there was too much resistance to the bleed so put on a replacement caliper (from 01 xsara) it bled much easier. On testing the brakes using a crowbar with the car jacked up there still seems to be some imbalance. I will do a complete bleed of the system before the next mot. I'm not sure what else can be done. Thinking anotther way there may be too much brake force going to the other rear wheel??
Rear n/s tyre on Laguna 2 estate had to replaced at 35k - outer third of tyre was bald! O/s tyre also wearing on outer edge, though not so badly. Car is run mostly on motorways, unladen; anyone else experienced such wear? (Dealers say the back suspension is not adjustable; Passat/Audi80 rear tyres lasted for ever...) Read more
Is this a record - a thread reactivating after almost 4 years?
Sorry, as I posted, I exchanged my Laguna within our company car scheme a couple of thousand miles after the rear tyres were replaced with Michelins and it ended up with someone from a different office so I do not know if the Michelins lasted any longer...
Can anyone confirm whether it is possible to retrofit a 3rd 3-point belt to the rear seat of a mk4 Golf? I've had a variety of opinions from VW dealers and specialists (VW kit + 1/2 hour to fit, £150 parts + fitting, £60 parts but impossible to fit, factory-fit option only)! Thanks! Read more
Thanks! They quoted £105.15 fitted, for a static 3 point belt (inertia cannot be retro-fitted)
To link alongside Mark's thread on tv car programmes - what are you views on the best car magazines out there - current and previous.
My money's on CAR magazine at the moment, closely followed by Autocar.
Steve Read more
As cars are less and less 'user maintainable', private owners of new cars have less and less incentive to look under the bonnet, owners of company cars even less so.
If you are selling a magazine about new cars, manufacturers will invite you to product launches, loan you cars, send you promo material, whatever, to keep their latest car in your mind and your readers eye.
If you are selling a magazine that has more relevance to those of us in the real world, manufacturers won't be interested (your readers dont buy new cars, and probably don't have their cars serviced at dealers), you won't have the support, you won't have the advertising revenue.
In the current commercial environment, it is more profitable for a publisher/TV company to have a 'cozy' relationship with manufacturers. That said, you say that Top Gear is in a position to cover more 'real world' motoring issues. But it doesnt.
I have to grow old - but I don't have to grow up
Whats the most underrated car? Regular readers will know my thoughts about the Xsara.
Ben Read more
NSU Ro80, especially if you follow the logic that the Japanese perfected an idea someone else pioneered.
Style and technology ahead of its time.
In the same vein, the Jensen Interceptor FF.
Not forgetting, of course, the Morris Oxford...Farina styling, loads of space, and rolling acres of bonnet concealing a throbbing 1622cc engine. What could be better?
When driving around in the recent snowy conditions , my 2002 model Passat traction control light was on continuously as I was really struggling up some hills (even with new front tyres).The engine would not go beyond 2000 rpm and I could not get any acceleration up hills. I felt I was going slower and slower which was a bit alarming with the hill getting steeper all the time.
The system packed in eventually -presumably it timed out to avoid overheating whichever brake was working.
I tried switching the system off to see the effect , little difference except the car weaved a little bit.
I abandoned the car eventually as the roads got so slippery I could not keep the car stationary on hills.
Anyone else feel ABS , DSC, traction control etc. are a waste of time , on standard tyres anyway? Read more
I wouldn't drive without ABS, never driven with traction control, but some cars are better on snow and ice than others.
I have never had any problems in French cars, 2 × 405, Saxo, Xsara.
Which engine do you have? Some may be better than others.
Ben
Can anyone please help me with a problem with an elderly Vectra. The car is a 96P 2.0SRi. The problem is uneven running at small throttle openings or on the over run when the vehicle is warm. The car idles perfectly well and runs quite smoothly from cold and when warm runs fine given a reasonably large amount of throttle. The problem feels like a hesitation and lumpiness as though there is uneveness in fuel supply or an intermittent inlet manifold leak. Reading my Vectra and fuel injection manuals, I suspect either the fuel tank breather system (FSCV) or Exhaust Gas Recirc (EGR)systems both of which apparently only operate when the engine is warm. Last weekend I disconnected the FSCV solenoid with no effect. I assumed the solenoid was energise to open, however, I am not sure whether it may be the other way round. Can someone please advise. Also I would like to render the EGR valve inoperable to see if it is the culprit. I understand is vacuum operated. can someone tell me which sense it operates in and whether I can disable it by pulling off one of the vacuum hoses. Alternatively am I barking up the wrong tree altogether and is there a well known Vectra fault with the symptoms I have described? My car also occasionally exhibits the Vectra cutting out syndrome at idle but this is quite infrequent and typically happens every six months or so.
Any Ideas gratefully received - many thanks
Superannuated Rocker Read more
Thanks very much for the reply. I\'ve tended to discount the throttle position sensor as the problem does not exist when the engine is cold. I know the mixture will presumably be richer then which may mask the problem but there is no obvious point on the throttle position where the difficulty occurs. Also the problem is obvious on a closed throttle on the over run yet the engine idles ok with the same throttle position. The only fault codes I have are from the weekend when I disconnected the CFSV solenoid. I note your point about the O2 sensor but at present it is not illuminating the MIL light. I wonder if my plugs suggest a weak mixture, I\'ll look at the weekend.
Thank You again
SR
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Yeah, we knew about the auction route but wifey did not want to schlep around loads of places to get what she wanted. Her brief was 4 doors and power steering, I wanted the diesel engine and space dictated the size of car. As she is paying for it I'm not too bothered!