January 2003
Anyone
I have recently noticed my 306 (98 S) is taking a lot of effort to put in gear, any gear. Particular force required to get to 2nd (from either 1 or 3) and all areuncomfortably ropey.
Have tried pushing the clutch pedal right into the floor which sometimes helps, and occasionally if I get the stick movement just so, a smoothish change happens. Previously all was very smooth. Any advice that wo't end up in a 300 quid bill gratefully received.
Cheers
Phil
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My 1997 (P) 1.3 (old style rotary engine) Fiesta has a loud tapping noise coming from the engine.
I had the tappets adjusted which fixed the problem for about a week, but is has now come back with a vengance. I was told that the adjusting 'screw' for the tappets was very loose.
Could it besomething else? Does anyone know of a way to fix it?
Help.... Feels like my engine is about to tap its way out of the bonnet!!!
Cheers,
Rob Smith.
Dredged up from the distant past this one, so the subject line was edited to bring it into line with current classification policy. Read more
I have a mk1 fiesta with a 1.1 valencia in it, it was virtually silent apart from a clattering noise coming from the timing chain end which i naturally thought was the timing chain, anyway, i recently changed my head gasket, whilst it was off i took the rocker shaft apart and cleaned it,it tells you to do this in the manual too so thats what i did, i kept everything in the order it came off, put it all back together and did the valve clearances, once i put it back together it was as tappety as hell, the clearances did need adjusting too so i assume the gaps are now tighter than they were so why is it this tappety, funnily enough the clattering noise has gone,so i am thinking maybe the first rocker clearance was so bit it was clattering rather than tapping.
Hi, i'm new to the site so am not sure if this should have been posted in the technical queries page but here goes...
I am considering swapping my rear cluster lights on my civic to some aftermarket lexus style lights. I know there are certain things that MOT testers will fail you on (ie red indicators etc.)but wanted to make sure what all the specific tests are. The clusters i know have fog lights and orange bulb indicators behind a clear lens. Is there any other requirements they have to have? I know the clusters are not 'E' marked. Is this a big problem?
Any advice would be great. Read more
I can safely say i won't be purchasing washer jet lights!
The reason i was going to swap is i really like the look of some of the lexus style lights that you can get. I don't think though i am prepared to get some that will fail an MOT though, hence i wanted to find out what requirements were needed to pass an MOT. I am reluctant to believe a lot of the adverts i see saying they are "Legal" when some are clearly not. The fact that these products are for sale and people buy them also confuses me, so i wanted to know how people claim to pass their MOTs while having them fitted.
I've just bought a 1998 'S' plate diesel (non turbo) 306.
Currently I'm doing about 450 miles per week... approx 360 of those are a weekly commute from Sussex to Lincolnshire.
My old 405 1.9 diesel (non turbo) estate with 120K miles on it easily returned 50 mpg on the same trip/conditions... the 306 is doing a max of 44...
Car is going back to the non-franchised dealer next week.. I've not that much experience with diesels - anything that I should be aware of? I've changed the air filter... as far as i can see theres no 'mixture' adjustment or similar. Other than the MPG problem there seems to be a bit of smoke/haze on acceleration - you only really notice it at night when caught by other cars headlights, so may not really be a prob.
For info the 306 is showing 20,000 miles on the clock... was an ex-lease/hire car so don't have fully stamped book..
Thanks
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I have a '98 306 DTurbo. I get very similar mpg (calculated after refill) however I drive it.
When I drive fast and accelerate really hard I get about 39/40mpg.
When I take it easy I get about 42mpg. I have had 44mpg maximum when driving like a teetotal, born again, tree-hugging, buddhist, trapist grandad.
Oh, and I see a haze in car headlights at night when accelerating up to 3rd gear. It then seems to disappear.
Hi, I've got a problem with a 1994 Mondeo 1.8 Auto.
The heater blower works OK but the control that is supposed to direct the airflow has a completely random effect. Also, very little air actually emerges. I've changed the pollen filter but no better. I've had a look at the control that is supposed to direct the air and it's got lots of little vacuum pipes coming out the back. According to the trusty Haynes the control is supplied with a vacuum from the engine, via an accumulator, to work the flaps on the air distribution unit. But it doesn't say any more. Can anyone tell me if they've had a similar problem, where the vacuum take off for the air distribution unit is? (inlet manifold?), where the vacuum accumulator is?, or ANY helpful info. This cold weather is really making driving hazardous!
Thanks
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If anyone knows what the hell the blue gunk is / was, please let me know !!
The green/blue gunk has come out of the AC/recirculated air/fan speed switch. It is a small moulded piece that provides a seal for a slider that goes over it to change between fresh and recirculated air....
One of the wheels on my 99T 306 has begun to lose about 1 psi/day. I can't detect any loss at the valve, and I can't find any foreign bodies in the tread. I had a 205CTi ten years ago which used to lose pressure due to corrosion at the beads - is this still a common problem? Read more
I had exactly the same a month ago.Tyres loosing pressure and definately no punctures.I traced mine on 2 wheels to where balancing weights had been clipped on and i guess there'd been a chemical reaction between the alloy and the weight.Took the wheels in for refurb at 30 pounds each and no problems since.Tyre fitters should never use clip on weights on alloys -always insist on stick on weights
regards
Derek
on my 1995 peugeot 306 when I press the rear heated window switch, the light comes on when the switch is pressed and when you release the switch the light gos off and the switch pops back out.
I have replaced the switch with some new one's and they just do the same.
Does anyone know how the rear heated window switch is supposed to work on a 1995 peugeot 306? Read more
im having the same prob in 1999 306 deisel,only my orange relay burnt out,smoking n plastic melting.managed to prize it out.HELP WOT DO I DO NOW ? .
My daughter's L reg. Pug 106 has started to leak a small amount of water from the heater into the driver's footwell. Not much more than an occasional drip but shows on the rubber mat.
How difficult/expensive is it likely to be to change the heater matrix, assuming this is the problem?
(Or is Radweld the answer?).
She's had the car for about 4 years and my son had it for a couple of years before that, so we know its history and its reliability is otherwise excellent. It's a 1.36 litre diesel.
Brian
Still learning (I hope) Read more
For around a fiver, Radweld's got to be the cheaper option to try first. If it fixes the leak - great. If not then you've only lost a fiver before trying the next option.
One of the hydraulic struts for my 92 cavalier hatchback must have seized, and when I shut the hatch, it sheared the bolt / balljoint which screws into the body. So a replacement one can't be fitted, and I can't find a way of getting to the reverse side of it to put a nut on.
Is my only option to have it welded ?
Thanks. Read more
I have a 92 1.8 cavalier, which has started revving highly when idle. A quick toot on the gas and it goes back to normal as though the auto-choke is stuck on. The bloke who serviced it recently was uninterested.
Any advice ?
Thanks. Read more
If I can add my sixpen'orth to my esteemed colleagues diatribe check that the choke housing is getting its 12v feed from the wire coming up between 2 & 3 inlet tracts and, more importantly, the choke housing is earthed. We routinely fit an extra earth wire from one of the thermal unit screws to the carb body to make doubly sure. The idea is that the electric heater gets the choke off quicky and the water heater keeps the choke at a suitable setting commensurate with the heat of the engine as it cools down (ie stops it coming straight back on when you stop the engine).
HTH
Andrew
Happiness is a T70 at full chat!
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Yes Dave, its the same gearbox.