January 2003
I had my car broken into a couple of days ago. There was nothing stolen, just a broken window to replace. My present employment situation leaves me time rich but cash poor so I have tried fitting the new glass myself without success.
My car is a mark 4 Ford Escort, five door and it's the front passenger side that got smashed. With the help of my Haynes manual I have removed the trim and the old aluminium mounting frame but I cant fit the new window and mounting frame onto the rollers. The glass payne restricts the degree of orientation available to fit the frame on to the rollers. I can refit the old mounting frame onto the rollers the glass no problem so I know what is required.
Does anyone have any experience with this model? Is there a set height I should have the rollers at or is there a particular knack to this operation?
All I get from the Haynes manual is the usual refrain of "Refitting is the reversal of removal." It does say that the rollers should be at the bottom but I've tried this without success.
Thanks in anticipation.
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can u help me? my starter motor has packed up. i have been quoted £80 for a new one . my car is a 1.9 turbo diesel and i need to know if it is relatively easy to fit it myself.
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Pigtails - I agree, that is cheap. The best I can do is £100, from Euro. Not a lot of point in going for the price you've been quoted if it's used though.
As for is it easy to fit - it's not known for being an easy job. When mine was done (on a different car, admittedly) it was an hour's labour and it was difficult to get to.
My advice is - spend £15 on a Haynes, if you don't fancy it then, get a mobile mechanic out. I can recommend one in London if you like.
What is the cheapest way of running a 1yr old car with relatively high depreciation and looking to change in 2 or 3 years when the warranty is out? Say for example, a Citroen C5 diesel.
I have looked and Personal Contract Hire and Personal Contract Purchase are similar prices to other cars that size, eg Laguna, Mondeo etc.
Been quoted a minimum guaranteed future value / final payment of just under £3k in 3 yrs on a 02 car at £11k now. (£300/mth 36mths £550 deposit) Read more
The 1.8 is a dog compared to the 2.0 HDI 110.
Hi All. I have purchased a '94 Toyota Carina 1.6 with 100K on the clock. It has been meticulously serviced and looked after.
When I viewed the car, I didn't notice a slight whine on acceleration or when the steering is in full lock. This has led me to believe the steering pump is dodgy as it doesn't sound like alternator trouble.
I would be grateful if anyone could tell if this is something I could ignore or if it may be something more serious ?!
If I have to replace it, what sort of cost am I looking at ? Read more
In the handbook for my wife's car it warns that leaving the steering on full lock for more than a few seconds can cause damage to the pump.
I have just dropped off my '97 306 Tubo Diesel at the dealer for an MOT....
Just received a phone call to say it will not start.....(first time in 6 years!)
There seems to be a key pad code fault. the code I gave them does not work (even though it's the one Ib have used for six years). My question is, how long do you have to leave the car locked for before the immobiliser de-activates and what is the process?
The added complication I have is a clifford alarm system that may stop this from happening.
Any help appreciated before the dealer pulls my car to bits for no reason! Read more
That is a massive coincidence to have it "failing" just when they had it if you keyed it in OK for the run down there. I'd go down and try the code myself.
Perhaps your Clifford alarm foiled them??
Had a guy once put his car in for a new battery without telling me there was an extra hidden alarm fitted...and he didn't give me the fob!
I was well chuffed after fitting the battery and working with rag stuffed in my ears for 20 mins wondering what the hell was setting the thing off... until a phone call to him produced the comment..."I've got the alarm fob here at home, didn't think you'd need it!"
MM
Is there a site that states the number sold of a particular model for any given year.
As used car buyer, it would be useful to know if the motor you are looking for is too rare to be common.
One model I thought of is an Almera SLX 1.6 auto or diesel 2.0 GX auto.
Anyone?
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There is some interesting stuff there but you may have ajob on your hands to get the sort of thing you want.
Interesting, Peugeot pre-registered 250 cars in December, out of 448 pre-registrations in the whole of the UK. Cheap(er) 406 anyone?
Does anyone know of, or could tell me where to find, the correct tyre pressure for a Vauxhall Astra Merit 1.7 diesel, on a J plate?
Thanks in advance
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My Astra LS 1.7D, J reg 1992, 27 front and 24 rear.
HF
Is it anyone who know what keeps up
the windows on doors. My problem is
that the window at drivers door will
go slowly down a couple of milli-
meters, the window will then be a
little noise. I dont if the problem is
the glider or the mechanic.
Roland
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Roland,
I moved your query to Technical Matters, you'll get a more likely answer there.
Mark.
Hi folks, I cant work out how to add to the Pierburg carb discussion so I'll start here and hope someones reading.
Just bought Scirocco 1.6 GT 88 on an E, cost peanuts as it cuts out after 10 mins or less, coughs, splutters and dies only to restart promptly. Classic symptoms of carb icing as experienced on numerous similarly equipped VWs in the past (Mk1 Scirroco GLS, Mk1 Passat, Audi coupe gt5 carb etc etc)I plan first to try and eliminate this by just taping up the intake for cold air. But to add to the fun I find that the little green vacuum hose that feeds the green sphere has collapsed, what's this for? and, more interestingly the filler neck has done the usual rotting out trick..... which may have allowed water ingress from wheelarch.
This has caused me problems before and very similar to carb icing, ie car revs badly, cough and dies, only to restart once float chamber has been refilled by pump. The fuel filters get blocked by water... this can happen on injected cars too. Re someones concern about injected icing, never seen it, consider it unlikely as the wet bits (injectors) are right in the head and kept warm. A warm air tube is therefore not present, only the ducting from the airflow meter/fuel distributor (depends which K jet or digifant)
Question...has anyone else experienced fuel contamination like this and do they reckon it gives the same symptoms as icing? (before I take out the tank sender and manually drain the fuel system).
GTi's wise Where's the oil pressure relief valve on a Mk2 Digifant golf? I keep getting buzzer and lights have replaced big ends, oil and filter but not mains which thump a bit whrn warm (I know, I know, it's a bodge but the cars pretty much kippered and I don't want to go mad on it)
Incidentally, I'm not going mad on the pierburg either, I've got a twin choke weber sat in the shed waiting for its chance!
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Anyone ever tried to do mains in situ? can you move
the crank down far enough to get the upper shells out?
I've done it, but only on engines which have separate crankshaft thrust washers. If the thrust washers are integrated into one of the bearing shells, you'll really struggle. I found that by loosening all the bearing caps slightly, I could then remove one cap at a time, rotate the upper shell round the crank until it dropped out, smother the new one in oil and then carefully rotate it into position. But you need perfect cleanliness which is hard to achieve when you're crawling around underneath an old Golf.
Given your oil pressure readings, I reckon that if the problem is shot bearings the crank will be scored, and the new mains will last about ten minutes. I wonder whether your engine has the same problem as an Audi 80 I once owned - black gunge in the sump due to lack of regular oil changes, which is floating around and gradually blocking the oil strainer in the sump. These are pretty tough engines, and if you drop the sump and clean it out thoroughly with paraffin, you might find your oil pressure returns. But I don't know for sure. The diagnosis on my Audi was posthumous, after the engine put a rod through the side of the block.
Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com
Can anyone recommend a good site for monitoring motorway traffic, ie. accidents, roadworks etc?
Cheers, Ed. Read more
Cheers SteveS.
I also found this one buypower.vauxhall.co.uk/trafficnet/ after a bit of effort with google.
Browse
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Thanks for the advice. I had in the mean time taken it to a glass fitter who did it for me. I had removed all the trim and didn't have it hand so he didn't have too much to do, showed me what to do in future and only wanted a fiver for his trouble which I thought was very nice as he was doing himself out of some possible future jobs. I think he saw the car and took pity.
I previously tried having a go at removing the rollers as it was mentioned in the manual but the the illustrations didn't look the same on at least two points so I wasn't sure that the design hadn't changed. The rollers didn't seem to want to come off and I didn't have the confidence to persevere for fear of breaking something. Still, I have definately learned a skill this week. Thanks again.