August 2002
I have a 97 P reg 1.8LX petrol mondeo (Mk 2 shape).
I have a problem with the electrics, which causes the following faults
The digial clock does not work
The interior light does not work
When I push to button to open the boot, there is a loud clicking sound from the lock, and the clock & light flash.
Any ideas ?
Much oblidged
Tony in Enfield Read more
I have a friend who is not on the Internet.
I have been extolling the virtues of this site and have said that I will put his problem to you assembled techies for suggested solutions.
His car is a 1996 P Reg. Vectra 1.8 manual hatchback.
He has a problem with the engine intermittently cutting out on tick over.
He is a pretty practical sort of bloke but he cannot sus out what action should be taken next in diagnosing the cause.
If anyone cares to post a list of appropriate questions for me to pass on to him that may help to eliminate or elicit possible causes or cures I would be grateful. I can then get back to you with his responses.
Much obliged, as me old mum used to say.
Rita
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Is it just me or does there seem to be rather a lot more VW problems in the technical section. More so than cheaper brands. Having seen what has happened to Mercedes (through this forum). I wonder why?
Edited subject line to bring it up to date and include drop down menus Read more
A customer of mine has a 98 Golf GTi with just 73k on the clock.
Anything that could fail does. Electrically the car is a nightmare. She has a VW
specialist work on it for her and they have a good rep even they cannot
understand it.
rust in hard to reach places the list just goes on and on.
Has the car been owned from new Stu? Has it ever been HPId?
Apart from the car by car breakdown info- does anyone have any additional info on them - in terms of reliability, potential classic status. How much would a good T bar cost ? Read more
Tomo
Thanks for your advice.
It took me some weeks to get to view the car. (Am writing from India). It belonged to a coffee planter who owns 50 + cars.
The car drove beautifully but.....I took your advice on looking for tinworm and there were signs showing at the floorpan, wing, door junction. There were little bubbles appearing and the trim was ...well tired!
The buyer wanted around 3500 pounds, I offered 1700 pounds for it figuring that it would need a lot of bodywork. My offer was met by a lot of profanity and "I have 50 cars, what do you know" speeches plus how dare you insult me by saying the car has rust!!
Enough said - me thinks a lot of car collectors with 10 + cars are not very good car keepers
Regds
Ajit
Can anyone offer any ideas as to what may be causing the following on my 1996 306dt :
Sometimes, after idling at traffic lights for a few minutes, the car emits a huge cloud of blue smoke on acceleration. If I saw this on any other car I'd be the first to think the engine was burning oil.
However, the oil level only drops by a couple of millimetres on the dipstick between 6000 mile services. I have driven the car 153000 miles and have never missed a service. Oil used is GTD Magnatec. The problem seems to be worse in warm, humid weather.
Recently, the turbo whistle has got louder. Could the turbo be on its way out, as there appears to be a slight film of oil inside the intercooler ?
Any advice offered would be very much appreciated because its going for the mot in a few weeks !
Thanks in advance.
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Thanks for the reply David. At tickover, the exhaust smells of diesel, and there is no smoke whatsoever. The smoke only appears on acceleration. I suppose I'll have to get someone to drive into it and have a good sniff. Still, I suppose 153000 is not too bad for a turbo !!
Thanks again.
When using the air con or not I have a smell emitting from the air system, sometimes the windscreen steams up. My local garage has advised me that the cost for this is around £100.00, this indicates to me that this is a relatively small job and possible within my capability?
I have read articles on this web site and advice given has not sorted the problem out, and by the way it is the best web site to date that I have found for car related problems.
I work in a technical office full of anoraks of which I am one and have passed this web site address to all (so be warned we all have problems and answers).
Questions: -
a. how to remove this smell (I understand that bacteria is the problem).
b. where to obtain a solution to remove this bacteria.
c. how to apply and where to apply.
d. a diagram of the internal air distribution system.
e. instructions!!
Many thanks
Martin
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Many thanks Andy,
I have tried max heat for 1 hour on both re circ and new air this cured the fault for about four days.
I am currently trying a product called Airco Fresh I saturated all air input apertures checked for seepage to the passengers foot well placed a paper towel to check (seepage found) no blocked drain?
Martin
I have an imported Golf 1.6 16v, which is dreadfully unrefined. Engine noise and boom into the cabin at 3000 rpm and above is awefull. I have noticed on other 1.6 Golfs that there is sound insulation under the bonnet and on the bulkhead. This is not fitted to mine and because the car is imported, UK dealers don't seem to care less, suggesting that sound insulation is a factory option which is specified as standard on UK models.
Is sound insulation fitted to all UK Golf 1.6 16v's or am I being fobbed off by the dealers? Also, does anyone else with a 1.6 16v suffer from pinking under load - something which again I have been fobbed off by dealers on.
Kind regards,
Matt. Read more
My wife has one of these in SE guise and the refinement is as it should be,resonably quiet at all normal (legalish) speeds. It was imported just over a year ago from Sweden and has had hardly any problem, central locking went funny after about 10 months- fixed under warranty. Definitly no pinking, underbonnet insulation- I think so, I'm at work right now with my own car, but will check in the next few days when I'm off work
I have 1996 Golf VR6 that I bought about a year ago. It has 117K miles on the clock. The previous owner bought the vehicle new, it has a lowered 'sports' suspension (I don't know if it was supplied like this from the dealer or whether this was after-market) which produces a very harsh ride. This, in itself, is not a problem to me. However, when driving on a bumpy road particularly one with a series of undulations the car has an alarming tendency to 'bounce' through the undulations which seriously affects one's ability to keep control.
Could someone tell me whether this is simply a product of the lowered suspension or if it is a case of needing to have the dampers replaced or if the whole setup needs changing (I hope not). It is difficult to test the dampers by leaning on one corner of the car as the suspension is very hard and has very little travel in order to see if it bounces.
Does anyone have any experience of different types of dampers and springs on this particular vehicle as I have never driven one of these cars with standard suspension. I have been told that cornering is not good with the standard setup.
Thanks Read more
IIRC - CAR magazine were distinctly unimpressed by the handling and damping of their long-term test car (one of the first V6's), however, when they drove another one shortly before it was replaced by the MkIV, they found its handling to have been much improved...
I have a 1.4 polo recently when accelerating in second gear up hills I have noticed a fluttering/vibration noise between about 2000 and 3000 revs, also seem to have lost some power. does not happen in other gears, any ideas?
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Does the problem clear after 3000 rpm or do you usually drive below that engine speed? Will the engine rev freely to the rev limiter or does it struggle to get past 4000? Could be partially blocked catalytic converter or as I have seen, the tailbox is falling apart internally and the fibreglass wadding is blocking the exhaust.
The 2.2DTR Zafira, advertised by "Showroom4cars" on Honestjohn's website is not available in right-hand drive as Opel aren't making any in RHD because it isn't physically possible. Are Internet bargains real? Read more
Browse
This happened twice to a friend of mine who owns a Vectra 2.0GLS. The first time is was fixed under warranty when new and the the second time cost £200 to fix. Each case it involved the replacement of an engine management chip. Common fault with Vectra's.