August 2002
Does anyone know how to obtain a workshop manual for the 2.5 TDi BMW engined omega. I have contacted Haynes who say they only produce one for the petrol version and they are not planning on producing one for the diesel.
I want to change the timing belt (1996 model with 78K on the clock). What is the recomended replacement interval?
I have changed several timing belts on different makes of front wheel drive petrol engined cars in the past. Is the omega fairly easy to do without a manual and does the belt self tension? Read more
Had occasion to purchase a new radiator today from manufacturer here in West Country who gave me a leaflet on this subject which I must confess I had never heard of as a cause for failing radiators. My scanner is on the blink so cannot reproduce the whole A4 sheet which details the simple test procedure for checking the coolant for an electrical charge but basically with a voltmeter on the range 0 -12v. with sensitivity of at least one-tenth of a volt with one test lead to battery ground and the other in the coolant (not touching any metal or the filler neck) Any voltage reading will indicate the presence of current through the coolant. A reading below 0.05volts is acceptable.
Heres the first paragraph which covers the problem.
Electrolysis is a highly destructive reaction casused by the passage of electrical current through coolant which destroys its corrosion prevention properties. A menace that attacks radiators and heaters and can destroy an entire engine within 12,000miles. Electrolysis occurs when electrical current flows through engine coolant in search of ground. It is most commonly caused when an electrical component or accessory somewhere in the vehicle loses ground usually from a broken or loose wire. When electrical devices lose their normal electrical path to the chassis or battery ground the current seeks out any other failure route. In most cases of radiator or heater failure loose or missing grounds can be traced to electrical cooling fans or relays. Another cause is bad ground wire from the engine to chassis.
We live & learn
Phil I Read more
Electrolytic corrosion where two disimilar metals are in contact and then get wet (ie salt water from the road or from the contects of the radiator) is as old as the metal fabrication technique itself.
The radiator may be especially at risk but how many older 'classic' cars have well known rust problems due to the contact of disimilar metals...aluminium/steel.
In fact steel ships use this effect by bolting on blocks of zinc which acts as a sacrificial anode and literally rusts away leaving the steel hull untouched.
regards
Ian L.
I've often seen this mentioned in Car mags. What exactly is meant by Terminal Speed ?
Ta !
Jack Regan Read more
The speed you are travelling once you have done the 1/4 mile sprint???????
It's hard to find a site with help on car maintenance that will be all things to all men but have a look at this one. I thought it explained most areas in nice simple terms.
netrep.dk/GB/indexGB.htm
David W Read more
An excellent site, David. Thanks for pointing us to it.
Of course, it means that you probably won't get any more paying customers ... ;-(
SWMBO is insistent that we need a top box to carry excess luggage from Essex down to Devon on holiday in September.
I am reluctant to buy one as apar from the expense I do not want to leave it on the car all year and if I take it off storage is a problem.
Does anyone know of an organisation which hires these things out? Read more
Brian,
It does seem very sensible to have a top box coz in Devon in September you can use it to shelter from the rain!!!
In the recent hot weather my wife noticed that the air conditioning in her Mazda 323 (1998 new shape) was not chilling sufficiently. The car was looked at by a Mazda garage, who re-gassed the system, added a flourescent dye and pointed out that the condenser had sustained a tiny hole (possibly made by a stone entering through the lower front grille at speed), which was now leaking out the refrigerant. I looked at this myself and whilst the leak is very slow and the air conditioning will probably go on working to an acceptable level for the rest of the summer, we would like to get it repaired at some stage.
The garage estimated around £400 (parts and labour) to fix it but I would like to get the opinion of an independent air conditioning specialist. Does anybody know of a good, trustworthy, reasonably-priced outfit in the Woking area of Surrey?
Thanks in advance!
Read more
The answer to your question is given by HJ at
www.honestjohn.co.uk/faq/faq.htm?id=14
He gives details of a specialist in Byfleet.
I have a 1989 1.3 HCS which I serviced a couple of weeks ago. New plugs, oil filter, oil change (magnatec gtx). Did clean the hoses to the air filter which were clogged up which in hindsight (what a wonderful thing) probably caused the problem? Since then it has been chugging when it gets to temperature - loses power from accelerator and idles erratically. Checked all hoses, changed the air filter box (waxstat hot cold diaphram arm was broken) and checked for any blockages. Can't seem to isolate the problem. Though it might be a vacuum problem but at a loss to find out where. Any thoughts? Read more
In addition to my esteemed colleagues advice I would add the possibility that the plug gaps are incorrect and should be 1.0mm which in themselves give 'interesting' idle characteristics. Also a common phenomena is that once the breathers are clear and fresh oil is installed the carb may well need richening up considerably. Ideally with a gas analyser but it can be done by turning the mixture screw anticlockwise a couple of turns and see if there is any improvement. The screw is on the back of the carb base next to a vaccuum hose but may be fitted with a tamperproof device. A tool should be available from your local factors but I strongly recommend that you have the engine emissions rechecked asap anyway.
K93 309 1.4i, 81000 miles
For convienience I have just booked my car in at Halfords (AA). £146 covers the following:
-Engline flush
-Mobil 1 and filter
-Air filter
-Spark plugs
-Coolant change
-Fuel filter
-'Checks on brake fluid boiling temperature, steering, suspension and so on' (what exactly this covers I don't know)
I like using them as they do report back about anything they notice, which is reassuring. Plus, Peugeot have quoted me £250, god knows why.
I've just seen the post about Mobil 1 but it ended up talking about prices, is it worth me saving £20 and getting Magnatec or will Mobil 1 be of benefit considering the car does a lot of mileage (mostly delivering fast food!) and is sometimes driven quite hard? Read more
Dave,
Dizzy is right, a far more basic oil will be fine for your engine. I look after a ZX 1.4 at about 130K and that engine is perfect, despite never having better than a straight 10/40 or 15/40.
More important is a 6K or 6 month change without fail. If it were my own car I'd not even spend £10 per 5lit.
A lot of oils are marketed on images of supreme performance, more crucial is the spec on the side of the can. Broadly similar oils of different makes can be in the same shop at £5.95 and £11.95.
Having said that if it gives you confidence by all means use a better oil. Semi-syn at tops will be OK.
David W
Hi Guys
I have a 1993 Astra 1400 with now 100k on the clock.
Over the last week I have noticed a hot (Almost burning)smell when I park the car after a fast run.Similar to the smell when a new exhaust first gets hot.
I have checked the brakes are not binding, the car has just passed its emissions test with flying colours as part of the MOT
test. There are no visible oil leaks.
I suspect the clutch (I think it is the original) but I cannot detect any slipping in normal driving. At least on the Vauxhall replacing the clutch is easy.
Have any of you guys any suggestions/advice.
Thanks
Andrew Read more
Melting carrier bag on the centre exhaust box, is what it turned out to be, well done on your armchair diagnosis Andrew -Another good post from the TUNE-UP Boys.
Andrew
Hi, Can anyone tell me which diesel ZX's have catalytic convertors fitted?
I am thinking of buying but am wary of cats, didn't think diesels had them fitted, any advice appreciated. Read more
Jon S
Thanks for your info on the alarm setup. Had a look at mine in more detail this weekend, and compared it to one found in the scrapyard. Mine is obviously missing the main horn/siren unit, which was behind the r/h front bumper. It's also missing the key unit to disarm it, which is on the front panel behind the r/h headlight. Rang Citroen - "Where's the rest of it likely to be?" which got the usual "Dunno".
It seems to me that mine had the sensors fitted, but no alarm unit, altho this doesn't explain the sensors pushbutton, which has power running thru it, but doesn't do much. Can't find any evidence of any alarm being fitted, other than the sensors. Oh, to buy a simple car!
Rgds
DomF
Browse
In fact you are right - the engine is driven by a chain, thanks for that, no more worries about cambelt failure!
Check out - speedways.co.uk if anyone wants info on any timing belt stuff -loads on there including pictures of wrecked cylinder heads.