August 2002
I have an Omega MV6 2000 new face lift model, just bought it. The computer complains about two things:
Coolant Level - when its fine, toped up to the level for cold, been like that for two weeks, has NOT gone down any.
Washer Level - this again has been toped up to the full. And works.
What I dont understand is why the dumb computer still thinks that the washer and coolant level's are both low?
What can I do to resolve this - any ideas? Try resetting the computer? Are Vauxhalls renound for this error message in the new models?
Taa.
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A note of caution to anyone importing a car from Europe - check the details!!!
I drove a friend to Harwich on Saturday to collect a new X Type imported from Holland.
New quartz metallic, dove leather interior,CD player,10 way seats with lumbar support,reversing sensor,full size spare wheel,fitted carpets,folding mirrors,inclination alarm,first aid kit,warning triangle,locking wheel nuts,5 speed gearbox.
He thought he had ordered an Automatic!!!
12 miles on the clock and about 45 more when he drives it to his home tomorrow -he intends to sell it and has re-ordered an Auto.
Anyone in a hurry at an import price???
Maybe this should be posted under classified ads - but there is a message here for anyone importing from Europe.
Matt35 Read more
I very much doubt the manual could be converted for under £5k plus, it would probably harm the resale value by far more.
I'll be going DFDS from Harwich to Cruxhaven to pick up the BMW soon. Although I have an invoice confirming the spec is exactly as I requested ie by item, I have told the supplying dealer I want written confirmation the car (which is now in his possession awaiting PDI etc) matches the order invoice ie each item I specified on the car IS on it, before the balance is paid.
As I've said, unfortunately people do not check the documents fully before they sign on the dotted line. However, if the car delivered is NOT to your spec, you should reject the car by contacting the supplying dealer via your agent if appropriate, and ask him what he proposes to do about it.
Hi, I'm tempted by a Seat Toledo 1.9TD. It's cheap, 2 owners but has 170k on the clock. Is this too high? It's got FSH but I'm wondering how long it will last for... Read more
Mr Hall
You are being most unhelpful.
I want a justification to get rid of my Polo Diesel. It is boring boring boring me, but it's still only done 94000 miles.
My trouble is that whilst I don't mind spending money for a justifiable reason, I have a fairly wide miserly streak and the Polo just keeps on doing 75 miles a day without a problem.
At the current rate of 20000 miles/year, I've got about another 15 year's life left in the thing yet, before I reach your Nova-boy mate's mileage.
Could you post something more helpful please? Like how fragile VW diesels are, how forthecoming government regs will outlaw smoky old-tech oil burners...
Thank you for your consideration,
Kind regards
Andy
Recently switched from Supermarket petrol to Shell optimax (filled full tank when on empty) and I get the impression that my fuel consumption has improved. I havent checked the figures but given my average driving style, routes and use of air con I feel that I am getting more miles from a tank in the last journey. Guess I will have to test this out more accurately, but so far I've covered over 300 miles and still have 1/4 tank remaining, whereas before I would be almost empty!
Must be my imagination or just driving style has changed!!!!
However I have noticed the car is quieter and smoother with the new fuel!
Simon
_____________________________________
SVPworld (incorporating PSRworld)
www.svpworld.com Read more
AFAIK Optimax has the highest octane rating of any UK petrol, most "super" unleaded is infact 97ron. So in a very nice :) Gold R32 I would say that a trip to the Shell garage for each fill up will be well worth it. Oh, and get a Shell reward card, cos i reckon you'll be using a lot of the stuff!
Tony
Recently purchased 1.8i 16v 96 ( 2 weeks ) , nice and clean , waiting for the problems to surface , replaced 4 corner spheres (Eurocarparts £12 each ), still sitting a little low at the back , but chanced trip to Inverness from Liverpool, reached Glasgow rear suspension non existent , found local accomodation with intent homeward return , brake failure !!, no initial pressure , panic !! and brakes lock up , returned home on rear of pick up.
Where do I start any techies with ideas ? can I check rear central sphere for Ok ness ? does the suspension relate to braking system??
Mike
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twimo,
Excuse rather brief comment, just back from hols (350 miles yesterday with absolute ease in our Xantia!).
The sphere condition does not affect ride height (just quality), the height corrector does this.
A lowish back end (when running) is usually a fault with this unit or its setting. Total collapse at the back can be a broken link from the height corrector to the suspension.
Easier to replace the central sphere rather than test the pressure.
Yes the rear suspension pressure and rear brake effort are connected.
A brake "zero feel" followed by hard stopping can be a sign of air in the system. Because the system is fully powered it only takes it a split second to "take up" the air bubble (when you think the brakes are failing and push the pedal even harder) then maximum brake effort is recovered and the car stands on its nose. Very unnerving.
Does that help?
David W
Hi
I have an S-reg Renault Clio 1.2 RN which I bought from my grandfather-in-law last year. He bought it from a Renault dealer in Chelmsford, where it was serviced all the time he owned it, so it has a full official Renault service history. It now has just over 34K on the clock.
I recently filled the tank before setting off on a long trip. I did not overfill it, stopping as soon as the pump cut out. The car rested at a slight angle as I finished packing. When I came back out, petrol was literally pouring into the street - although it hadn't been doing so when I parked up only about 1/2 hour before. I called the AA, and the guy said it might be a valve or seal broken. The fuel stopped leaking after about a quarter of the tank had emptied. Since then I have not filled it above half full, and there have been no leaks.
I called Renault to get this fixed. After finding the local Renault dealer, they mentioned something about compensation if the fuel tank had to be replaced. When booking the car in, the dealer mentioned he had seen this before a couple of times and the whole tank had had to be replaced. Obviously the car is out of its warranty, but given its official service history, if the fuel tank does have to be replaced, should I be expected to pay the bill? Surely Renault have some responsibility, especially if it is due to a faulty tank design?
I'm not very mechanically-minded. Any advice much welcomed! Has anyone else had a similar experience? Read more
Situation update:
Was told Renault France said no compensation to be paid due to the car's age (car delivered 28/8/98). Total cost £440.
Unleashed my secret weapon - my wife - who once had the whole of Selfridges wedding list dept hiding from her after they ballsed up our wedding list - but that's another story.
After a couple of calls to Renault customer care in the UK, they agreed to pay 50% of the cost.
Since this first happened, I have heard of 3 other people who had a similar experience with their Clio fuel tanks. As the part number has now changed, I think this should no longer be a problem for recent Clios, but if anyone's thinking of buying one, be warned. Having said that, overall I am happy with the car.
CC
Hi
This link provides advice for americans who will be driving over here. Some quite amusing items.
www.travelfurther.net/dictionaries/driving.htm#spe...d Read more
I had an Intrepid on my first trip - can't help agreeing with you. Had a Mercury Le Sable second time - much better.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what can cause starting problems on my omega 2.5 TD. The diesel specialist has had it for a while and tells me that there is no diesel getting to the injectors. He says he thinks it is an airlock caused by poor joints in the pipes. He's replaced all the pipe connectors from the pump to the injectors and also replaced a pipe at the back from the pump. It still doesn't start very well especially in a morning, I have to crank it over 10 or so times before it fires from cold (3 or 4 when hot). The glow plug light lights up for about 5 or so seconds when the ignition is turned on so they seem to be OK. Anyone any ideas? Read more
Assuming that the engine runs ok once started and that it is easier to start when hot suggests the glow plugs aren't working as they should.
They are easy to check with a meter; the resistance (ohms) should be in the manual. If open cicuit; they are burnt out. You do not need to replace the whole set; just the duff ones. I would buy genuine GM replacements; although expensive they are far better than aftermarket cheapos.
Also check the timer is working by connecting a voltmeter to the plug feed wire and earth and switching on the ignition. Time how long there is a current in the cicuit and compare to the spec. in the manual.
Your specialist should have carried out these basic checks. Why not ask him first ?
Over in technical I started a dicsussion about getting a new car. After a long a laborious process I've decided on a MINI, and probably a Cooper.
I've spoken to four dealers who are all steadfastly refusing to discount the car, sticking to the list price. Their attitude seems to be - we don't discount these cars, and I think you'll find no-one else will. Am I paranoid in thinking this is some form of price rigging?
I'm not expecting to save a shed load of cash on a car with a three month waiting list, but cannot distinguish one dealer from another.
Does anyone have any ideas of how to save some cash here, apart from haggling a good finance rate?
Thanks,
Lee.
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HJ wrote:
>>Actually the price of the MINI is fixed by supply and demand. Because demand exceeds supply dealers can sell the cars with an expensive list of extras for full list price
Fair enough, but in the showrooms I'm just not getting an answer to the question "Why buy from you rather than McBobbins BMW in the next town?"
Perhaps after years of Citroen dealers willing to throw their grannies in with the deal or cut the local competitions' throats, I cannot understand the steadfast attitude. And I've got A Level Business Studies!
Knowing that I'm buying the car, I don't understand why a dealer will let me take my money elsewhere. Surely it's better on his figures than someone elses, even if it does cost a set of mud flaps. Perhaps they do have limited allocations, or can't fit any more money under their beds.
I suspect the gain lies in finance - already a dealer has offered 7% without any pushing, around 1.5% less than the banks(Stuart, IIRC they got about 4% on the programme). Given the cost of interest, I might be better off concentrating on this rather than a free cupholder!
Thanks all,
Lee.
PS - my favourite quote from a Cambridge Economics Graduate friend on the subject: "If garages were any good at lending money, they'd be banks" Funny if I do end up using MINI finance
& Watcher, tried to resist but... yes they are pricey, and the hype might not be to many people's liking but BMW have hit my demographic square on with just about the best car I've ever driven, and for the price of an Astra.
& John, tlc is five years or 50k servicing but the warranty is only 3 - still excellent value given the first service is £87 alone.
Hi all.
Was wondering if anyone could help.
After reading a few car magazines I have come across various cars which have had 'cat by-pass pipes' fitted. These cars have been M registered.
A salesman recently tried to sell me a stainless straight through exhaust. Do these straight through exhausts have CATS.
Cheers
Ross Read more
Ross
A 'straight through' exhaust simply means it uses absorption type silencers, and not baffle type. No reason at all why this can't be used with a cat.
Anything with an M reg must have a cat - no question. It'll never pass on emissions without.
Cat by-pass pipe? Is this a system which can either by-pass the cat or use it for MOT time? Probably not worth the effort, as you really need the ECU reprogrammed to take full advantage of removing the cat. This applies mainly to those cars which were fited with cats before they became a legal requirement.
Regards
John S
Browse
I have taken the lid off the coolant tank - the sensor is in there?