August 2002
I have a 97 P reg 1.8LX petrol mondeo (Mk 2 shape).
I have a problem with the electrics, which causes the following faults
The digial clock does not work
The interior light does not work
When I push to button to open the boot, there is a loud clicking sound from the lock, and the clock & light flash.
Any ideas ?
Much oblidged
Tony in Enfield Read more
I am thinking of biting the bullet and spending more than I normally would on my next car, probably a Ford Focus between 2-3 years old.
Can any present owners comment on the performance of their current model? I am looking for performance over mpg so I have ruled out the 1.4 or 1.8 diesel (yes I know the new diesel is a star but only fitted recently and out of my price range). That leaves the 1.6 1.8 or 2 litre petrol. Thanks in advance for any comments. Read more
Thanks, looks like the 1.8 should fit the bill, I'm suprised it is only group 6 ins, the same as my current 1.4 ZX.
Can anyone point me to a link where I can ascertain the sales figures for cars in Denmark ? Too complicated to explain why I want to know :-) Read more
To give you an idea of the taxes the Danes pay, they have a tax of 105% on the first £4500 and a further 180% above that! VAT is 25%!
This makes an Audi TT Roadster a staggering £60,000 and a basic Ford Ka £10,000!
I am trying to set the CO level on our 1990 1000S Panda but have not been able to get any info on what the levels are supposed to be. The car uses a Weber carb and there is a screw on the nearhand side of the carb body next to the idle adjustment that looks as if its going to be the adjuster. Can anyone supply the info I need on the CO and am I looking at the correct adjustment screw. As is normal with any big Auto company the website is useless for this sort of info, OK if you want to buy a new car on finance, anything else especially older models and they dont want to know!
Thanks in advance.
Bill Read more
Hello Bill.
The mixture screw is the one you mention, horizontal, approached from the drivers side of the car and hidden inside a tubular part of the casting.
As to the CO level, the book ( Fiat book ) says 1.5% plus or minus 0.5% at 750rpm. I have no machine to check this but I find that if you turn the mixture screw fully in ( just to where it touches, dont crunch it down because its a taper seat )and then turn it out by three and a half turns, this should be about right.
Mine is an 89 1000S btw and its the best car I have ever owned. Rgds petel@clara.co.uk
Quote from \"uk.rec.cars.maintenance\":
\"I own a Rover 75 2.0 CDT auto which uses the BMW sourced diesel engine.
According to the handbook the engine oil to be used in this engine should be a 10W-40 or 15W-40 viscosity to ACEA A3 and B3 specifications (I believe that this designates a synthetic or semi-synthetic oil). I have just had the first oil service carried out at my main Rover dealers (my DIY skills have to be put on hold during the 3 yr warranty period!) and the oil they have used is Castrol GTX Magnatec A1 which is a 5W-30 viscosity oil to ACEA A1 and B1 specifications.
Any oil experts out there? Why is a Rover dealer not using the engine oil recommended by the manufacturer? Is ACEA A1/B1 spec oil, better or inferior to ACEA A3/B3 spec oil?
I was given a 1 litre top-up pack of Magnatec after the service. The blurb on the bottle does not make it clear whether Magnatec A1 is synthetic, semi-synthetic, or neither. Does anyone know for sure??\"
Discuss.
--
Parp, Parp!
Note: All Toad posts come with an implied smiley. Read more
oops, ok, thanks!
I am becoming increasingly aware that, when braking, the offside front of my Mondeo is dipping noticeably lower than the nearside. This effect is also noticeable when driving over a speed bump.
I have just had it back from my local Ford Main Dealer after reporting this, but they reckoned they could find nothing wrong so nothing was done. They didn't really give me any sort of proper explanation. So, I have to ask the question, are they all like it?
Could it possibly be that, since most of the time I'm the only person in the car, my own weight is causing this to happen, since, obviously, I am sitting on that side? I also not that the engine is not exactly centrally mounted along the centre axis of the car, by design. Could this cause the effect mentioned?
I don't think this is connected with brakes, which seem fine. However, when braking hard from speed, the car does want to steer to the right, which has to be corrected. I have just fitted two new front tyres and had the tracking done (front wheels only), but this problem (?) was there before.
Would be very grateful for advice and comments from fellow Mondeo owners. Mine is a 2000 Zetec Hatchback 2 Litre. It's done 30K.
Many Thanks
Read more
I had this problem when I bought my Mondeo at 26,000 miles.
When the car was bounced on all 4 corners the car did not bounce. i.e. the shocks seemed fine.
However when the rear struts were removed one of the rears had almost no resistance.
My car was handling like a right pig. The back end used to kick out under heavy braking.
Hope this helps. Let us know if you find the problem.
(Sorry if this has been discussed before but I couldn't find the thread.)
Is the JD Power survey meaningful?
In my opionion there are real problems with the survey:
1) Not model specific. Some cars are known to have duff variants e.g. unreliable auto gearboxes. The ride and handling will vary between variants.
2) Takes into account how much the owner likes the appearance. For goodness sake why did they buy it if they did not like it.
3) No sample size given. A wide spread on a small sample (10 cars) is statistically less significant that a wide spread on a large sample (1000 cars). Similarly a lot of bad results from a car with small sales is much more significant than a lot of bad results from a car with huge sales. (Assuming people with bad experiences are more likely to contribute.)
4) Only a statistical average is given. Is it not better to buy a car that is uniformly average than one that on average is the same but which has a large number of very good ones (50% say), and a large number of very bad ones (50% say).
5) Ride and handling: the results differ markedly from magazine reviews. How come?
6) The nature of the buyers is not considered. The Micra is known to appeal to women, old people and Asians. Doubtless the way these people judge a car is different from the way a typical VW Polo driver would.
I bought my first car (Micra) on the basis of the survey and my second (Ford Ka) on the basis of my preference. My experience (and that of magazine reviewers) is the opposite of JDP. The Ka significantly outclasses the Micra on ride and handling, and on appearance. The inside of the Micra looks downright nasty.
On the plus side, the build quality and quality of service are possibly of value. Read more
The Watcher.
Kind of confirms what I think, that the survey is useless, despite as others have said being very influential. Wonder if the results tally with other user surveys?
Not sure if this should have gone in one of Marks speeding threads but not totally up to date with the Fora yet.
BTW Toad is my fiver safe re your trip to Wales??
What would you have done in the following situation, and would appreciate input from m`learned friends of the legal world.
UK motorway, 3 lane NSL.
Road works, warning signs for 50 limit, count down markers etc followed by the proper speed limit sign, red circle, black 50 white background. (Just so you know not an advisory limit in force)
Get to the end of the physical road works, no more cones, clearly displayed road works end sign, Highways agency sorry sign plus the cones hot line phone number or whatever it is called today. Noteworthy was the complete absence of a National Speed Limit sign.
Everyone lifts speed back up, including me.
No more than a mile down the road, sign road works in 2 miles etc. This time no 50 signs, repeaters, nothing. Get to the end of the second road works, clearly shown is an NSL sign. !!!! Hmmmm!
Without looking at the speed order in force this tends to indicate that the 50 applied all the way from the first road works to the end of the second.
Question 1, what would you have done? Personally I bottled it when I realised there was a second set of works and slowed down to max 50.
Question 2 If there had been enforcement, be it electronic or organic, after the first set of road works would there have been any sensible plea in mitigation available?
Discuss. Read more
Like you DVD I was totally convinced in my belief that it needed the NSL sign, black diagonal on white circular sign, to mark the end of a lower limit, be that a permanent or temporary situation.
IT just goes to show that life gets even more complicated and thanks to Jonathan for pointing out my lack of knowledge of the HC, even though we have two copies of the latest edn in our house and read not so long ago either. (don't ask why two copies, it would lead to an embarrassing explanation followed by a Homer Simspon like DOH!)
Has anybody an opinion on whether to go for a 1.0GS Yaris or a 1.7 (new 65bhp turbo diesel) Corsa Club?
I've lived with a Yaris for a few months and it's OK, but I've got the option of replacing it with either another of the same or the Corsa. The Corsa is allegedly quicker (0-60, presumably even more so in-gear) and more economical (60mpg combined). The Yaris would be a UK car, the Corsa an import.
Any comments would be appreciated. Read more
My Toyota dealer gives me a Yaris when the MR2 is in for a service.
I think the Yaris is a horrid car and that speedo is just in a stupid place. The Yaris gives the impression of being
a, a woman's car or
b, an elderly drivers car.
Probably wont get a bad one but it is a totally uninspiring car. Worst of all is when you see people driving around in a T Sport Yaris with wheel extensions and bodykit!
Truely amazing what some people will buy!
Hi all My friend has just given me his original car stereo out of his honda accord (2000 registered), I know the stereo is a panasonic/matsushita, the only problem is i have neither the qwirring loom or a map of the points, does anyone know of anywhere i can get these? Preferably id just like to know which pin is the live etc..
thanks in advance
Andy Read more
Thanks for the help so far doesnt seem to be the right 1! god damn it..
Oh well im getting closer
Andy (no relation to any1 but my family :o))
Browse
>> I have a problem with the electrics, which causes the
As the clock and interior light are wired permanently, I guess it is a fuse blown. Have you checked?
With regard to them flashing when you prees the boot button, its probably an earth leakage that's causing it due to the fuse being kaput.