July 2002
My Dad has an Oct '97 Ford Mondeo 1.8, and every time he switches the air conditioning on, the car appears to "judder" and runs very unevenly. As soon as it is switched off, it reverts back to running smoothly. It's been checked out by a Ford dealer, who says "surging" is normal when the air conditioning is switched on and off. Does any body have any better suggestions? Read more
Hello,
I have a Mazda Xedos 6 - 2.0 V6 Petrol - 65,000 miles. I have recently noticed that there is black smoke / black liquid coming out of the exhaust. It is apparent at idle and gets worse the harder you rev it. The inside of the exhaust pipe seems to coated with black soot as well.
The car tends to be driven hard (um, thrashed actually) and I noticed a burning smell the other day at about 6000rpm. Has been served regularly though at franchised dealer. No dodgy supermarket petrol used either.
Does anyone have ideas what this is, how it can be cured, and if there is a cheap way to do it?
Thanks, in anticipation. Read more
Markymark & Toad,
I deleted your replies, amongst others. Nothing wrong with them, but I wanted to remove the conversation from Technical Matters.
No offense intended.
Mark.
Hi Everyone
This is my first post, and regards an irritating failure on my wife's 1995 Micra.
I did a 72000 mile service on the car at the weekend, and found that one of the bottom ball joint covers has split. I've had this before (on the other side of the car), when I discovered that replacement covers or ball joints aren't available. The only option was to replace the complete bottom wishbone, which cost about £60 IIRC.
The ball joints are a push fit into the wishbone, and are sufficiently tight that a large bench vice wouldn't shift them. It just seems crazy to spend £60+, just because a rubber boot has split.
Does anyone know a source of replacement rubber boots? I've looked for them (unsuccessfully) in the past.
Thanks
Ian
Read more
I'm not talking the one who supplies performance parts and shiny gimmicks but doesn't supply the old-fashioned thick underseal which can cover-up all sorts of problems.Most areas will have one that supports people trying to maintain their cars on a shoestring-they supply pattern parts from countries you've never heard of,recondition all sorts of bits and there is usually an oily queue at the counter because the bloke behind it is trying to work out from a description what is wrong and find something to fix it.Ask around some of the locals with old cars.
I recently had my car stolen and then recovered within 4 hours of reporting here in Nottingham.
i was not expecting to see it again like most people i thought it would be torched or crashed into a lamp post and written off.
The police arrested 2 people for the theft and have bailed them. Hopefully the finger prints will be found off the steering column cover which was ripped off in stealing the escort. If so can i get any type of compensation from the courts from them?
25 cds were nicked
Over 200 quid worth of damage to the steering column and both front door locks trashed.
Plus use of near on a full tank of fuel and other minor bits.
Forget the small claims court as i wont get anything out of a car thief! thats the whole reason they nicked it in the first place. the police muttered something about criminal compensation something or other if they get conficted?
Any one got experience with this?
bear in mind i won't be claiming on insurance as i am 17 and only had the car 3/4 weeks!Policy excess 200 pound! Read more
Just got information back from Plodaughter.
Current practice in the sticks of North Yorks is that
1. Statement of complaint by IP and stating that compensation is claimed.
2. Form MG 19 Green Compensation Form completed
3. Seperate Victim Personal Statement Scheme - stating how IP feels about crime against him, losses and to be kept up to date on case.(Copy to defence)
DVD
Hey all
Your collective wisdom is needed. My flat-mate has just put a deposit down on a car and now wants some advice on what to look out for on this particular model (wrong way round I know). This is where I am hoping some of you have either long memories or old cars. This being NZ, it is a Honda Accord of the 1980 vintage. I have had a look at it and it seems fine but I was wondering if any of you knew of its weaknesses? It is a automatic with an overdrive mode, a city mode and a normal mode. Not sure what size engine it is but it's in so much better nick that a similar age car in the UK would have. It has no surface rust beneath its original lime green paintwork (urgh) and there is no evidence of any major prangs. It seems to be mechanically fine too, with a new WOF (NZ for MOT). For $700 (about 210 quid they can't go far wrong) and get this for insurance - $500 for 4 young drivers - one of whom is 17! Makes my UK insurance renewal make me cry. (You may remember me asking about that a while back.) So now in the flat it is an Accord and a Skyline. Any other suggestions now I'm looking? But back to the main point - anyone have any gems of wisdom on this car?
Paul C Read more
I have since had a chance to look at the car and it appears to be free from rust in all the places that you have mentioned, and it has had a timing belt change. Only time will tell but as it has been bought to last only a year then it does look good. Thanks to HJ and DM for your comments.
Paul C
I know that this should be in the technical section but as the car is in for a service tomorrow I thought I would get mor replies here!
I am not sure if I have a problem or not and any views would be gratefully received.
My turbo (diesel) seems to sometimes loose bost pressure. It whistles away quite happily and then at about 2500rpm you feel a flat spot and the whistling stops and sounds like there is a release of gases. Sometimes this escape is preceeded by the turbo "whistle" being a bit stuttery. Conversely there sometimes seems to be a power surge at 3500 rpm.
I am just wondering whether it is my non-mechanical mind playing tricks or does someone out there know better Read more
Dan,
Problem sorted. There was a split pipe which I believe was the vacuum one.
Thanks for your advice.
Charlie
Hello
We have a 97 2.0 GLS 16v Omega and for a while now it has a tappety rattle, particularly on tickover.
It has only done 30K and the timing belt was replaced 4K ago, along with the tensioners etc by the main dealer as now recommended by Vauxhall.
The dealer says the rattle is caused by a worn fan belt tensioner. Does anyone have any experience of this, and is it a DIY job to change it.? My Haynes manual acknowledges the car has a belt tensioner but doesn't tell me how to change or remove it!
Many thanks
Simon Read more
I also have an Omega 2.0 16V GLS saloon (99 T) and I noticed the same when compared to my old 8V 2.0 cavalier. Its worse at start up and seems to get better once the engine warms up, I've been told its just the oil taking its time to get around to the top of the cams. As I drive usually with the windows closed, it doesnt bother me as I cant hear it inside the car!
Being anally retentive, I keep a regular check on mpg. The simple spreadsheet tells me mpg on this fill, average since the car was bought and, more usefully, average over the past ten fills. I think the latter gives a good idea of whether consumption is changing imperceptibly.
Figures have been remarkably stable at approx 34mpg except that a recent fill seemed to give only about 26 mpg. I'm satisfied that the record keeping is OK and that my driving pattern didn't change. Now back to normal.
Led me to wonder if there's any way the filling station could have fiddled me. Your thoughts welcome! Read more
Nice to live somewhere where gas stations give you the service you're supposed to get, i.e. pert little gal who calls you sir, cleans your screen, checks your tires, oil, water then asks if she can do anything else for you. Or it could equally well be some pimply youth, but at least you don't have to do anything.
Congratulations on a really good site.
After much soul searching over the last six months I have finally decided on the Yaris D-4D(PAS) to replace my ailing 12 year old Metro.
Some while back the 'Right Car - Wrong Car' programme managed to obtain a GS Yaris (petrol) for a guy at the knock down price of £6k. Some 2k off! (at a car supermarket)
Since then I have been all round the houses looking for a good deal. It occurs to me that these supermarkets are not offering base models of the Yaris and also the D-4D seems to be a bit of a rarity to trace at a comparable knock down price - £7.9k seems to be the cheapest price on offer.
Am I right in thinking that the Autumn might be a better time to get a deal on this model or is the Import route from Denmark a better option?
Read more
What the car supermarkets tend to do is sell in non UK spec cars which makes them look cheaper. Importing cars does still present savings of around 20% on a Yaris 1.5 T Sport to UK standards while your local Toyota dealer will give you around 6% off his high UK price.
That said, the D-4D is harder to source from Europe as Toyota Europe, like all manufacturers, are trying to stifle the import market. There is a similar situation on any Corolla at present.
If importing from Denmark, you'll be looking at around a 6 month wait. Alternatively try Holland and Belgium
I'm off to look at some imported cars at Trade-Sales with a view to purchase on behalf of my daughter. Has anyone had difficulties with warranty work or insurance after such a purchase? Read more
Got my Fiesta Ghia at Trade-sales, have a 1 year warranty on it but have had no difficulty in getting work done.
Also, the only thing that it was missing was the alarm (which I added for £180) and it came with a CD player instead of cassette. I would definately go back again, I saved over £3000! :)
Browse
.jpg)
I think the Ford dealer is correct.
However, just because they all do it doesnt mean that it is ok.