January 2002

John Gardiner




>
> I have the opportunity to work in Sydney for the next 2 to 3 years, an
> opportunity which I am finding hard to resist.
> There is a downside however, I will be hit with a big loss when I sell my
3 year old( 18,000 miled )Ford V6 Cougar, which I have had since new, before
> departing Blighty. Is it worth shipping the car to Oz? If so what problems
> can I expect re insurance, servicing and Oz equivalent of MOT?
> Thank you Read more

THe Growler

Buy a Holden V-8 Mate.

Jonathan

Hi

i have just spend most of this evening helping a friend of mine to source the problem of his airbag light. The light stays on. he has borrowed a diagnostic thingy (little red stick) from the local ford dealership, which revealed that there was not a problem with the abu.

He has sourced it the the module (the little grey metal unit behind the dash, with a green sticker).

He wants to know a) how much is a new one, and b) could he get one from a scrapyard and if so, would a front ender be of no use, as he thinks the module would have served its purpose and be a permanant ON, so the air bag would immediately deploy when the ignition is switched.

Any advise would be appreciated (apart from ask fords for a new one, he will be doing that tomorrow).

Jonathan Read more

David Lacey

Don't, repeat, don't fit secondhand airbag parts.

It's just not worth the risk.

HEXED

GOT A 93 XJS WITH 31,00O MILES ON THE CLOCK.
PROBLEM IS WHEN I SET OFF IN THE MORNING GEARS CHANGE UP 1ST, 2ND, 3RD, OK - THEN IT GOES TO 2ND AND RARELY GOES UP AGAIN, 5 MILES TO WORK, PARK UP.
AFTERNOON START UP DRIVES PERFECT THRU THE GEARS NO PROBLEMS.
ANY IDEAS?
GEARBOX OIL IS CLEAR AS A CLEAR THING, FILTERS PERFECT.
ANY HELP MOST APPRECIATED.
CHEERS
HEXED N SKINT Read more

David Withers

Here are some thoughts to start off with ...

A common cause of delayed or non-existent gear changes is a low fluid level. It is vital, with most boxes, to check the level with the engine running and preferably with the oil at normal operating temperature. With the engine switched off, a lot of the fluid drains into the sump and gives a falsely high reading. When the pump starts working, this draws up fluid into the upper part of the box and the level in the sump drops too low and starves the system.

The fact that the filter is clean does not entirely eliminate the possibility of dirt or swarf in the system stopping a valve from seating. The dirt could already be in the box and have got dislodged, or it could have been introduced via the fluid cooler, in which cases it could have reached the valve block before going through the filter. For example, if the cooler is situated in the radiator and a radiator repair has been carried out, a blob of solder could have found its way into the box and bypassed the filter. The filter would normally act only on the fluid being picked up from the sump.

The fluid being clean is a good sign that it hasn't overheated and that the brake bands haven't disintegrated. A heavily worn brake band can be another cause of poor changes. This shouldn't happen at only 31000 miles though!

The fact that your gearbox works OK when you use it for a journey later in the day baffles me. All I can think of is that it has something to do with the fluid being warmer and dropping in viscosity. I wonder if the problem is simply a sticking valve that works OK once the fluid has been warmed but sticks overnight when the fluid cools? The low mileage might give a clue here as valve sticking sometimes occurs when a vehicle has stood for a few months. This can often be cured by driving the car quite severely for three or four miles with lots of forced changes up and down the box -- might be worth a try.

Hope there is something here to help.

robert

Hi,

I need to identify the relay which operates the headlight washers on my Omega. The owners manual isn't any help - neither is the Haynes manual. The circuit diagram shows the relay (K97) - but not the location.

There are masses of relays and a few fuses in a box next to the battery - but none of the relays or fuses are identified - which leads me to the wider question:

Does anyone have a list or layout of which relays and fuses are located where? I've had a quick look in the archive but can't see anything obvious.

Feedback much appreciated.

Regards .............. Robert Read more

Rob

Are you sure the relay box layout isn't given in the Haynes manual - there's often a labelled picture in the electrical section.

Excuse my scepticism, but if the car's out of warranty, can you really not live without headlamp washers?

Rob

Julian Lindley

A curious thing nostalgia. Music, vehicles, good times or even the opposite sex can set us off on a brief but pleasant trip!

Two particular vehicles often come to mind when I'm in reflective mood:

1
A 3 wheeler wooden van of 40's - 50's vintage. The van had a single wheel at the front located on motorcycle front forks. The forks passed through the vans wooden body, and I assume the controls were of the motorcycle type. This vehicle delivered a crate of beer to my grandparents each week in the early 50's, and I was aways mesmerised by it. I wonder who manufactured it, it was a real character m/c. I have never seen one since.

2
The 3 wheel articulated Scammel lorries that operated in many railway yards during the early 1950's. I recently came accross two trailers for these units in a local farmyard recently. Again lovely characterful machines. Are any still around?

Regards,

Julian Read more

Alyn Beattie

Oops old age does not come by itself :-)

john hill

I own a Audi A4 110 TDI, wghich I purchased new on 1/8/98. To date the catalytic converter has been replaced twice. The present one is now defective and needs replaced, (the car has been serviced by Audi from new and has covered 68,000 miles).

When the last one was fitted by the Audi dealer( Sept 99) I was informed that the part had a 3 year waranty. When thisone began to rattle I contacted the dealer and was told that there was no waranty on this part.

I have contacted Audi stating my disapointment at the life span of this expencive part (£240 + VAT). They informed that this was normal for a catalaytic converter as it was a wearable part.

Please can you confirm if this normal for this part to have such a short life?
If not, what would you think a reasonable time for a catalytic converter. Read more

JohnM

My pool car 98S A4 110TDI's catalyst rattled and failed at approx 62K (just before the car was being replaced). Audi dealer reckoned there was a 50/50
chance that the replacement would not be simple, due to seized studs in the manifold.
However, my own 97R Passat 110 is still ok at 120k (touch wood...!)

FfC

Has anyone actually received any Air Miles since Shell converted to the Plus Points system?

They just cannot seem to get their act together and have been chasing 300 Air Miles for six months jow, what a waste of time. Read more

Flat in Fifth

Ah but, did they *ever* say that one air mile is exactly equivelant to one travelled mile?

If you take the trouble to find out you will find that no they have not. In fact in the early days they were at great pains to ensure that this was clearly understood not to be the case. So being economical with th truth, I think not and so would any other reasonable person.

Also without very much effort I managed to find flights to BK 5924 miles for 6500 air miles, conclusion 1 air mile = 0.911 real miles........

oh so sorry, forgot to mention that you got a free second ticket with that so 1 air mile is actually worth 1.822 real miles.

Which rather proves my point that one *can* readily find flights at rates far far better than you alleged, they do understand the principle of cut price travel for partners and it is *not* a con trick which is totally contrary to your principle allegation. Oh dear Robin's wrong again, you *do* seem to be having a bad week dearie.

So who's point is proved now,.....as some say....... n|nn.....

Go and take a flight somewhere. Ha Ha you know it makes sense.

markymarkn

Guys,

Thanks for the info regarding my astras funny idle (in a past thread). I cant remember who told me to clean the idle control valve (sorry whoever u are), but ive had a go at cleaning it. The problem is I didnt really know what I was doing!

Took it out, but couldnt get the valve inside to open to clean it - which way does it open (pivot/swivel/what?)? Should I be able to open it myself? Should it be open anyway when its off the car?

Any help will be appreciated - vauxhall are willing to charge me £104+vat for a new one! hows about not even nearly... (would the one of a 2 litre fit? they r cheaper)

Thanks, I'll put myself into idle now after yabbing on...

Mark. Read more

markymarkn

andrew,

thanks for advice but isnt it supposed to idle higher when its cold? because it never does, no matter how cold the engine is - I find myself revving it slightly off idle so it doesnt sound so rough!

I'm going to have a play now...

M

archie

Not strictly car related, but does any one remember the bright yellow "Mr Mole" that used to stand in the grounds of the Molegrip factory by the M4 in Newport, Wales. Didn't he spout road safety related messages and seasonal greetings from time to time? When did he disappear? Read more

Brill

Oh well I tried twice, but it seems to be editing out spanish today :o(
"Ale, toma ya".

THe Growler

For those of us who love to have a tilt at the PC-police, pollution stats, use of bandwagons by special interest groups and all that, www.junkscience.com should feed your interest. Read more

THe Growler

That's easy, 'ers....