Guys,
Thanks for the info regarding my astras funny idle (in a past thread). I cant remember who told me to clean the idle control valve (sorry whoever u are), but ive had a go at cleaning it. The problem is I didnt really know what I was doing!
Took it out, but couldnt get the valve inside to open to clean it - which way does it open (pivot/swivel/what?)? Should I be able to open it myself? Should it be open anyway when its off the car?
Any help will be appreciated - vauxhall are willing to charge me £104+vat for a new one! hows about not even nearly... (would the one of a 2 litre fit? they r cheaper)
Thanks, I'll put myself into idle now after yabbing on...
Mark.
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Which exact engine is it in your car Mark? (1.6/1.8 8v/16v etc)
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When I had this problem on my last Cavalier (2.0 16V ECOTEC), my Vauxhall dealer "cleaned" it twice. In both instances, it worked fine for a while before the problem returned. After talking to various Cavalier owners on the CavWeb board, I was reliably informed that it was impossible to clean the valve properly, as there is some part which, once clogged with oil, is impossible to clear. When I mentioned this to aforementioned dealer, he agreed, saying that they'd cleaned t because it was the cheapest option, and replacement was eventually necessay. Also, it is necessary to get an oil separator fitted to the top of the crankcase breather to stop oil getting into the valve.
Andy
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1.8 8v
the idle air control valve is cylindrical with 2 pipes on opposite sides at the top and 2 wires at the bottom
Help!
Mark
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hmmmm
sounds expensive (big surprise) - think i'll just keep cleaning it.
I've read tonight I can connect 12v to the valve to open it up so i can clean it better - can i break it by connecting it the wrong way round?
Would I be able to test to check that the valve is actually getting a voltage to it - I thought by connecting the mulitmeter across the terminals with the valve disconnected. surely it wont do any damage to the engine by running it with the valve disconnected? What kind of voltage/current should I expect to get? (I know this must be connected in series)
thanks,
Mark.
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On the subject of testing these rotary idle valves:
1If you connect a multimeter on low ohms scale across the two terminals you
should get about 8 ohms and zero continuity to the casing of the valve.
2 One wire of the valve connector plug should have battery voltage with engine running,the other wire carries a variable earthing signal from the control unit. (dwell reading)
3If you connect battery voltage (very briefly) to the two terminals it should click open quite audibly.
4You can disconnect the valve and run the engine without causing problems,in my experience. The engine will idle much more slowly and may stall.
5As a mechanical check of the valve, you should be able to move the shutter through one of the air pipes,it should slide easily using a small screwdriver and spring back. If it does not do this it definitely needs replacement.
Hope this makes sense to you.
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cheers david,
I did try moving it with a small screw driver the first time I had it out and it was firmly stuck.
I'll try what you've said tomorrow and see for sure.
Many thanks,
Mark.
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Mark,
It was me that posted the instructions from the CavWeb board on how to clean the valve, but I did admit I hadn't tried it myself yet! Let me know how you get on and whether it makes any difference - that might just be the kick up the backside I need to do the job and stop my Cav from idling like a tractor.
Good luck,
Ian.
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I do have the right part here dont I ?-
Its like a piece of hexagonal metal with two pipes coming out of either side. Fastened on the bottom of this is a cylindrical device (about as big as a c size battery) which has two electrical spade connectors on the bottom of it. The pipes that connect to it are the thinner of the 'pipework' i can see as part of its plumming.
It hangs loose and is held by the two pipes only, between the engine and the throttle housing.
Its just if been down the scrappers and the guy reckons this isnt the part, but then he did insist my engine was a 2 litre as well...
Cheers
Mark.
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On my 1.8 8v, the idle speed valve was a black solenoid with 4 wires going into a plug. Standing facing the engine bay, it appeared on the front right hand side of the throttle head and was secured by 2 of those star headed screws whose name escapes me. On removal it is simply a solenoid with a shaped metal end on it which moves in and out depending on the current sent to it. Not sure whether this is the same on your engine but this is certainly where it is and what it looks like on the 8v Cavalier 1.6 and 1.8 engines.
Any help?
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star headed screws whose name escapes me ....
Torx
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No, this hexagonal device is just to up the idle a bit when under load. I have to date never come across one that did anything much. The auxiliary air valve is just by the throttle linkage, bolted to the cylinder head and is open when cold and closes with an electrical element as it warms up to drop the idle down to 900 rpm which is controlled by the brass screw in the throttle housing. Clean the throttle plate, remove and clean the screw, then warm up the engine, switch everything off electrical and adjust the brass screw to give you 900 (ish) rpm. If it still has an erratic idle it could be an air leak (brake servo/hose) or inlet manifold gasket.
HTH
Andrew.
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andrew,
thanks for advice but isnt it supposed to idle higher when its cold? because it never does, no matter how cold the engine is - I find myself revving it slightly off idle so it doesnt sound so rough!
I'm going to have a play now...
M
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