May 2021
Got a 5 year old BMW X1, with only 17500 on the clock. Warning light related to parking brake comes on at ignition and switching off engine. Fault is apparently a microswitch in the gear lever assembly. My local garage (BMW accredited, NOT the dealer) says it requires a new gear level module as the microswitch can't be replaced independently. BMW price apparently is circa £650. Has anyone come across this before ?
Have found a company in Sheffield that specialises in recovered parts who quote £79 but need to ensure it's complete Read more
Doncaster based OneCall Insurance has been hacked and data allegedly lost.
The hackers claim they have "all customer data such as passwords and bank details"... Read more
How many minutes of running does an average modern car take to replenish the electrical energy taken from the battery to start its petrol engine from cold?
I remember hearing in the past that it took at least 15 minutes, but that was a very long time ago and cars back then didn't have all the electrical accessories and gadgets that they have these days. On the other hand, perhaps alternators and electrical management has improved as well?... Read more
How many minutes of running does an average modern car take to replenish the electrical energy taken from the battery to start its petrol engine from cold?
Hardly any. It can require anything up to 3000watts of power to spin a big cold engine. That's 12volts x 250amps. Most engines should start within two seconds. The power of the alternator obviously varies from car to car. It might be around 100 amps, which at 14 volts translates to a potential power output of 1400 watts, although nothing like this when treating a cold engine gently at low revs. The water-cooled alternator in my 6 litre Audi is rated at 190amps with a power output of 2660 watts. I have no idea how fast the engine must rev to produce this humungous output, or how thick the copper wire must be to carry such an enormous current without melting!
Hi, on my Jetta mk5 (same as mk5 golf) the gears are really stiff to select especially when going through the neutral selection eg 2 to 3, 3 to 4, 4 to 5 etc? I have looked on top of the gearbox and the cable closest to the engine is very squeaky when going through the gears. I did try some WD40 on it but it didn't seem to do anything.
The car is 12 years old but has only done 40k miles, anyone ever come across this before? Read more
Problems with gear selection can be due to a worn clutch (is the biting point high?) If the clutch is hydraulic has it been bled?
Does the gear linkage need adjustment....
Hi all I hope someone can help.
I have a Vectra C 2006 Auto elite 2.2
I started the car up today and went to put the car into drive, but was unable to move the selector out of park.
I then noticed there where no usual lights on the gear selector, the red brake pedal and P not lit up. I had to remove the ashtray and press the override yellow button down with screw driver and move the selector out of park and into drive. D comes up on the Dashboard but no lights on the gear selector. while driving I tried to use semi auto mode but nothing, car dash just displays D. After completing the journey, i put the selector into neutral, put hand brake on and turned engine off and pushed the yellow override button under ashtray and put selector into park. Does anyone know what the problem might be. Is there a fuse that controls the gear selector, or is it something else. The brake lights are coming on when i press the brake. but gear selector seems dead. no power. Read more
Can’t see that being a problem. However you may find the shifter electronic panel is coded to the car , so it may not work out the box .
Hi,
I was after some help if possible.... Read more
Half a centimeter of clear silicone sealant versus maybe a couple of centimetres of fibreglass, seems a pretty fine (aesthetic?) distinction to me. Filler does tend to promote rust but it can be painted, which silicone sealant, AFAIK, cannot. Appearance doesn't bother me but it does most people
Tis, however, true that nearly all my cars have been obviously near end of life when I got them and for all the time I've had them, 8 years in the case of the current one....
So I plugs computer in says injectors ,glow plug and reluctor wheel
I’ve had my injectors checked they fine but no one seems to know what a reluctor wheel is any one know on here ? My car is running fine just the service light I’m worried about Read more
The service soon light means the car needs a service a lot of systems work out how many starts the vehicle has etc which will have an effect on the engine oil so it is important you do the service. The reluctor ring is on the driveshaft first thing is to make sure it is fitted correctly some cars have a seperate ring some are part of the CV Joint also make sure they are clean and the sensor is also clean, be careful with the sensor it is fragile piece and can be broken quite easy. Hope this helps.
Still reservations ! Is there a normal expected mileage range of life for the 6 gear auto transmission of this car ? Or is it simply fortune ? Assuming correct servicing.
Posted my previous query on Hyundai forum when I posted it here. To date 84 views and not even a post. HJ probably the best forum in the world. Read more
I said I want to learn and this forum is a marvellous help. I appreciate your willingness to share your opinionr. When I go to showrooms and have test drives I will be much better prepared. Many thanks again.
Hi there,
... Read more
Ah great thanks that's good to know.
I will ask them to put it back on during the service. Seems reassuring enough that it won't cause too much grief....
Hi,
Took my scenic 1.9 dti for a diagnostic as there is a real loss of power and the ‘preheat’ warning light is on also.
Got told 2 glow plugs are bad and a mass air flow sensor fault is showing.
since then I have changed all glow plugs, removed and cleaned egr valve (which was stuck) and removed and cleaned the air flow sensor (was clean anyhow, used correct non contact spray etc)
However, problem is still there, I read that the fault can clear if you pull the electrics from the maf, which I did, warning light still on.
I think it is a lack of air/fuel consumption. Is my best bet to buy a new maf? I have heard this needs to be genuine part also? Or by pulling the electrics out and the fauls still occurring show that it’s not the maf?
thanks in advance.
Edd Read more
Thanks for replies, I appreciate and agree with all.
I couldn’t test the maf as didn’t have the equipment to hand.
Closing up this thread, I bought a new maf and the fault cleared. Also found a leak before the maf and that the air intake filter was knackered. These were obviously fixed and it drives much better now. Behind the maf was a linkage on the air line which I couldn’t get moving, freed it up though.
Anyone reading this thread with a similar issue, I advise to clean the maf sensor and take out and clean the ecg as (after much research) if this is out of action, also shows this fault.
Thanks all
Edd
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Maybe similar fault to what VW have with a microswitch in their DSG gear lever assembly? VW want you to replace the whole assembly at £00's but you can buy a new switch and mounting bracket from aftermarket very cheap. I doubt BMW make their own microswitches - its probably a standard £3 part inside.