May 2021
Hi - this is my first post and I’m seeking some guidance as not sure which way to go. This is Avery random comparison, but I’m trying to choose between a 3 year old, petrol Kodiaq with 23k miles and a diesel X3 with 43k miles. Not much in it in terms of spec, especially for what I need. Not much in it in terms of price either, X3 maybe £1k cheaper overall by the time you weigh up all the add ons.
Just not sure which is best - the kodiaq is more practical, bigger boot and 7 seats. The X3 maybe has the edge in terms of comfort.
Anyone got a view? I can see the pros and cons of both, Kind of wondering if anyone has ever tried to decide between these two cars before!!! Read more
Evening all,
I have purchased a 2015 C220D SE auto. I just cannot get comfortable driving it! The side bolster on the right hand side of the drivers seat is digging into my thigh and feels mega uncomfortable after a short time. As it is an auto the accelerator is offset to the right, so my thigh is resting on the edge of the bolster all of the time.
I have been to a Mercedes dealer and the A class and CLA are just the same with brand new models.
1) I am a 6 foot tall broad (not fat!) 14 stone man.... Read more
My view is that if you can't get comfortable on a car then best to change the car. This is why an extended test drive is very important. Usually uncomfortable feeling starts to appear after 45-60 minutes of continuous driving.
Mercedes steering/pedal offset is often mentioned as problem for RHD markets. This is another reason why I prefer Japanese cars. Surprisingly Korean cars also work better for me even though they are LHD in base country. Never owned Volvo, but heard their seats are very good.
Is there any typical problem about BMW 320d made in 2018 and 2019? Will 320d GT do much better job than normal 320d? Thank you! Read more
Thank you all for responses!
I’m considering buying my first car, it’s a big purchase for me but I need a runaround now. I’d obviously like something reliable and hopefully something that could be used without hassle for a few years. I’m considering the Fiat 500 Lounge, VW High Up! and Kia Picanto Vr7/Sr7. I’ve been checking MOT’s and some newer Fiats seem to have similar problems which is putting me off but I like the car. I just wondered if anyone could offer any opinions please?
Whatever car I get will be used, I’ve been looking at max 5/6 yrs old and under 30k miles.
I’m looking at doing 4/5000 miles max myself, predominantly city driving although will be on the motorway occasionally. I’d prefer 3 door and to have Bluetooth although that isn’t a deal breaker!
Thank you in advance. Read more
“ Do the VWs not rank as highly anymore? It’s really difficult to know what to look for when you’re a novice!”
While certain VW’s have suffered problems in recent years they’re still generally good cars. I had a Polo for 5yrs and rated it highly despite the occasional fault. There’s little to fear from a well looked after VW UP! Or it’s Skoda and Seat sisters. They’re nice enough all round but they’re not as stable at speed as a Polo for example. I’d happily recommend one but they’re not better made than a Kia, Ford or Hyundai these days. In fact I’d say the wee Fiat 500 was up there with it for quality. I’d love a Fiat 500 Abarth or a VW UP! GTi, both would be a hoot and I can see one taking the role of second car at some point.
Hi. Last Tuesday week I took a punt on a very high mileage (261k) pug partner 1.6 hdi. Vehicle has full service history with receipts for all work done including belts, water pump and clutchand a record of mileage.
On Wednesday I did 700 miles and it didn't miss a beat, on Thursday I did 100 miles, filled up with diesel in Nuneaton and approximately 1 mile later went into limp mode, had a screen message saying "engine fault repair needed"... Read more
Exactly what "pug software" was the garage using?
I have a problem with the Easytronic. It is possible start and drive like normal. After some time I slow down (I want stop the car) and there if F on gearbox display. Sometimes I can restart the car after the incident, sometimes it is not possible and ‘‘F‘‘ don’t disappear. Maybe it is related with rainy weather or cleaning the car with water. Maybe water can damage somethink. Any ideas?
Opel Combo Engine 1.3 cdti
I have this fault codes:
Engine 1 problems exist
1.P1700 Service Vehicle Soon Request From Transmission Control
Module
Not Present
AF 13-II/17/20/22 CAN 10 problems exist
1.U2107-C CAN-Bus No Communication With IPC (Instrument) Or
BCM (Body Control Module)
Not Present
2.84,00,17,22(P1722) Please refer to manual
3.P0725-C CAN-Bus No Communication With ECM (Engine Control
Module)
Not Present
4.U2108 CAN-BUS No Communication With ABS/TC Not Present
5.P1895 Limp home - Limited Performance Or Engine Torque Signal
Range/Performance Or Invalid Data From ECM
Not Present
6.P1120 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 1(and 2)
Range/Performance Or Invalid Data From ECM
Not Present
7.U2105-0 CAN-Bus No Communication With ECM (Engine Control
Module).
Not Present
8.P1703-C Brake Light Switch Signal CAN-Bus Malfunction Not Present
9.P1560 Switched System Voltage (Ignition ON) Circuit Malfunction Not Present
10.84,00,16,07(P1607) Please refer to manual
Easytronic(MTA) 10 problems exist
1.U2107-4 CAN-Bus no Communication with Body Control Module Not Present
2.P1722-0 Gear Selector Serial Data Not Present
3.P0725-4 Engine Speed Signal CAN-Bus Malfunction Not Present
4.U2108-4 CAN-Bus No Communication with ABS (Anti-Lock Brake
System)
Not Present
5.P1895-4 Engine Torque Signal CAN-Bus Malfunction Not Present
6.P1120-4 Accelerator Pedal Position Signal CAN-Bus Malfunction Not Present
7.U2105-4 CAN-Bus no Communication with ECM (Engine Control
Module)
Not Present
8.P1703-4 Brake Light Switch Signal CAN-Bus Malfunction Not Present
9.P1560-6 Switched System Voltage (Ignition ON) Circuit
Malfunction
Not Present
10.P1607-0 Clutch Actuator Position Control Error Not Present
The following systems are OK:
1.ABS8/ESP8 (Anti-lock Braking System/Electronic Stability Program)
2.ABS-5.3/5.4(+TC) (Anti-lock Braking System)
3.PSCM (Power Steering Control Module)
4.BCM (Body Control Module)
5.IC (Instrument Cluster)
6.IMMO (Immobiliser)
7.DIS (Info Display TID,BID,GID,CID) Read more
With range of faults I'd check for a bad earth first. Methodically check all the earthing wires and where they are terminated on the body and powertrain.
I’m often advising people to avoid diesels when they’re shopping for a used car on a tight budget and a work colleague has recently felt the pain after buying one. The car in question is a 2014 Dacia Duster 1.5 DCI and after a couple of months of ownership it has suffered catastrophic engine failure. The engineers report has cited misfuelling, which caused the fuel pump to disintegrate and metal to be ingested by the engine. Now despite this wee car having a full service record and being in good condition the current owner had no way to know that someone had dumped a load of unleaded into the tank at some point then ran it. He’s now left having to borrow money to repair or replace the engine on a car he owes money on. Had he stuck with a simple petrol version he would’ve spent a couple of hundred quid a year extra on fuel but saved a large four figure sum on repairs. Moral of the story, stick with petrol when buying a cheap used car. Read more
“ Was there no warranty?
If the fault occurred after a couple of months would there not be a presumption of a pre-existing fault with comeback against the supplying dealer (or is that not the law in Scotland)?”
The accusation is that he or his wife did it. To be honest I personally believe that’s the case and this hasn’t been months in the making. The warranty company s fighting the claim and the claims limit won’t even look at it.
Hi everyone,
I've been reading a forum quietly for a while but never posted. I am looking for a car for my small family (me, my wife and two dogs). We budgeted £3000 for it, but we could stretch the budget a bit more if the car was worth it. We are not very knowledgeable about cars but we've learned to check for bad rust, MOT history, clutch, etc. We would like to have some degree of reliability (as much as possible for the age with regular checks and maintenance), so we focused on these cars: ... Read more
We will definitely be looking for something bigger long-term too! It just didn’t work during the boom for now and it’s much easier to view cars without pressure- estate/van/suv will be next for us too!
The new worry is catalytic converter in London on the Jazz :)
Hi i would like to ask for advice if someone can help me.
I have this car more then two years and I noticed both fan doesn’t work. I bought usb obd2 cable with software where i ran diagnostic about car, no errors, no lights that something is wrong. In the program manually u can switch on almost anything( control the lights, speed of the fans, the sensors..) everything looks fine but air conditioner’s fan and, temperature fan didn’t turn on. Manually tried to test if they work and they did work and when ii remove one module with four pins the fun start working whole time, if i put it back it’s stopping working... if need more informations and if u have some solutions let me know thanks Read more
Some of these Astra G models have a cooling fan control module located behind the front bumper. Might be worth a look .
Can any body help with error code p1460 crossed the pins on the relay and everything works as it should changed the relay for a brand new one still not working any help would ne appreciate Read more
I would never assume anything. The garage needs to recheck circuit operation. The wot relay is normally closed relay, so power will flow through it with no circuit active . Giving full throttle the relay is opened by the engine ecu and thus no ac pump . Have the fuses been checked?
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