September 2016
After putting up with the dreaded 'check engine' light (MIL) for a while, I paid £24 to have the code read by a local garage. They found the code P0480, which is apparently due to a Low Speed Cooling Fan Relay Circuit Fault.
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Got a Volvo xc90 as a courtesy car, first time out in the dark and it's awesome. Lights follow where you are steering and when you get the headlights on its like daylight... I heard these cars dipped beams adjust automatically to avoid annoying oncoming cars but not sure. Read more
It's popular to get at older drivers, past it, no reactions, re test 'em etc etc. How nice to read that according to research older drivers are mostly ok and generally no more dangerous than any other group, indeed the older drivers are more likely to try to drive carefully. Oldest uk driver apparently is 108. Read more
The appaling standards have only got worse by the constant watering down of standards by the government and employers.
The government have made the LGV & PCV driving tests easier to pass and then in a campaign to improve(laughable at best) road safety they dreamed up the driver CPC ( read money making scheme for all these parasitic 'training' companies).
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Hi there - I really need some advice
The vacuum pump went on my 2001 Tino - the garage had it for eight weeks
They said they'd ordered a genuine Nissan part [because they couldn't find a cheaper alternative] -and that it was special order and non returnable
They said the part cost £600 but when I finally got the car back they charged me £930 as they said they'd had to order a tensioner too - no one told me about this and I didn't authorise this extra work despite ringing and asking to be called back about the status of my car repairs.
So Q1 - how do I tell if it is actually a genuine brand new Nissan part? What part number should it have? Is £600 the right price for this?
I got the car back on Friday - paying the huge £900 bill - and then yesterday the turbo went in spectacular style and now the car is dead and too expensive to repair.
Any chance the two could be linked?. They also tried to charge me for 'oil' but the breakdown guy said there is no way the car has had new oil in it recently so I'm suspicious of everything now?
I now have to buy a new car and try and get my money back - I may be able to do this through our credit card company. If the vacuum really IS new and genuine can I remove it easily enough and sell it? Would I get anything like the £600 for it?
Thanks in advance for your help - I'm clearly a numpty I guess but it's a hard call to make when you can't buy a decent used car for £600 anymore Read more
All I can tell you is vacuum pumps for Nissans on special order are shockingly expensive.
I "almost" ordered one for a Teranno once but luckly asked for a price first,...
Hello my sat nav screen is frozen, the sat nav box is under passenger seat and I ejected the cd and re inserted it but nothing is happening.please help. Read more
The Toyota CD based system is 10 years old, updates coist £100+ and a TomTom/Garmin with free lifetime updates is both cheaper and better.
15th June, hit by national company's van. They admit liability through insurers. A.A take care of everything, smashed front has done in power steering, grill, bonnet etc. they get me home then bodyshop collects car and given huge Merc S class as a courtesy car. Write off they delare a fortnight later but my insurance company takes over ...not a write off, keep Merc 'til you get car back. Middle of August, car comes back on transporter. Front end fixed but whats all the damage on the rear wheel arch and panel? Car goes back. They say car was filthy when the inspector checked the car so the damage must have been there already...I produce photos of car immediately after the incident showing the car perfectly clean if somewhat crumpled. 'Benefit of doubt' awarded to me so they accept someone of theirs has scraped it. Go on holiday and return hire car. Back from holiday. Call from insurers, inspector has found more damage to door frames etc. Given another courtesy car...brand new XC90. Value of my car about £7.5k ...V70 2008. Estimated cost so far. Repairs to mine...ongoing...£5k. Hire of S class for 2 months around £7k, now XC90 on hire for two days and no end in sight....madness! I'm weary of ringing the insurers and body shop and will need a lot of convincing the repairs have left me a safe vehicle. Ambulance chasers trying to get me to complain of whiplash and any other thing I can think of...no says I that's fraud. Any wonder premiums are sky high with this waste of money? Read more
Now I'm a bit concerned, I don't obviously want a bodge job but fear there may faults I won't spot but if the paint dosen't match I'll spot that and reject the repair..I think you can do that? Car needs MOT now so with all the front end damage there was I just hope the steering, air con, lights etc are ok.
the hot air on my old fiesta overheats dramatically if I stop and restart my engine
I can drive 10 or 100 miles and cool air is no problem. If I stop and restart air blows roastingly hot regardless of settings. Even with the blowers off hot air passively fills the car. Problem resolves after engine fully cools.
The engine itself does not obviously seem to overheat. Bonnet normally warm, no white smoke, no warning light (this model does not have a temp gauge)
Coolant does need topping up more than I expect but no obvious leak.
please solve my mystery - what would you try first?
spec: ford fiesta flight 2002 (1995 to Mar 2002 model) 1.3 petrol
Endura E engine (afaik) had it about a year. Full service when I got it. Read more
Sounds like the heater control valve faulty.Very common fault on this age Fiesta.Air for the heating system enters the car via the vents in the body,just below the windscreen,by the wipers.
Had the clutch and DMF replaced a month ago. The car went in on the back of a recovery vehicle because after filling up with fuel and then a short journey, it would not start. Apparently, at the garage, the mechanic got it started after repeated attempts on the starter and diagnosed that perhaps I had let the fuel get too low.
Clutch is ok now but I have had starting problems, which have got so bad that it eventually fired up after a recovery technician tried to power it across a car park on the starter motor power. So fed up with it, I took the vehicle to a garage close to home. I am expecting the problem to be diagnosed as the crank sensor, parts £100 + labour £300. Apparently the sensor is around the back of the engine, parts have to be removed to get to it, an easy job if it is done at the same time as clutch replacement.... Read more
Have I got a claim against any one?
No....
Once my car is warmed it, it idles at only 590rpm and feels pretty rough when I'm sitting in traffic or even manoevring to get into a parking space. When the engine is cool it idles perfectly at between 750-800rpm. Car has about 42K miles on the clock.
I've been back to the garage several times and even Audi France took control of the calculator 'at distance' but have so far been unable to improve things. They apparently had trouble getting into the calculator for some reason.... Read more
I have been out in one of these today, in a friend's car.Idle warm is around 600rpm, with no noticeable excess vibration.Perhaps there is problem with the electronic engine mounts,have these been checked?
please can you help i need a radio code for my car after the battery was changed , i pulled off the plastic and the number said VPP261995 if you can help that would be really great , TIA Read more
Sorry, can't do Keycodes for Ford "V" serial numbers, nobody on this forum can. You will need to go to a Ford main dealer, use one of the online pay services or there are sellers on Ebay who claim they can supply them for a small fee.
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