February 2010
I've just bought a new fiesta 1.1 and as my old car died a sudden death I didn't have much time to be picky about it.
The heater doesn't seem to really get hot, it gets just about warm enough to clear the windscreen but not to actually warm the car up. Thought it might be the age of the car and the fact that I'd only done a couple of local journeys but did a 2 hour round trip in it today and still no improvement. The thermostat on the dash never rises past 1/4, at best.
I have read that checking the water level and checking for leaks is the first port of call, followed by checking that the water pipes actually feel warm, but would any of this affect the temperature of the hot air, or could it be something else as the air is warm, just not hot?
Cheers
Chris Read more
Yes as peter says there is usually 2x choices winter and summer stats go for winter you should notice a very good improvement and don't forget the anti freeze 50/50 mix.
Have the above car and the engine seems to be tight when turning. It wont start. Read more
>>, timing out << Yes valve timing if the belt has slipped a tooth or been played with as in this case it's a non runner.
When you have had the battery off for half hour and then run the engine for 20 - 30 mins at idle -
Is it important to switch off then take it for a run or can it just be taken for a run after idle without switching off?
thanks for any advice Read more
thanks guys.
I guess I'm clearing the problem then it's returning then
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=4&t=81...1
driving me nuts!
Hi
Any advice/views on the following would be gratefully received -
I bought a 57 plate panda at a BCA auction last week - described as one company owner, 11k miles warranted, 2x service stamps. After I bought the car, I checked out the service book (only stamped, no invoices) to find it had been stamped at 7113 miles on the 3/12/09 for the first service and again at 9910 miles on the 1/12/09 for the second service???? Obviously there is a problem with this. I called the company that "serviced" the car, and this turns out to be a body shop (a subsidiary of Direct Line according to info from google) which used the panda as a customer car. The person I spoke to told me that they don't service cars and was not sure why the book had been stamped - they have no paperwork to back up the stamps. Whilst I believe the mileage is correct, this will affect the balance of the fiat warranty and also impact on the resale value.
I am going to contact the auction company on Monday but am really looking for views on what you would expect the outcome should be?
thanks
tim
Read more
I'm with BB,with any multi user fleet you get good cars,bad cars and most are just very average.All depends on what you have to pay and being aware of the previous fleet life if its important to you.
Why do cars seem to have such high reverse gear ratios these days, also first, I can understand first to an extent as they want to avoid a big gap between first and second etc. & MPG - but reverse? Read more
its so reps cant get away from closed deals fast
Hi,
have posted on here a few times regarding issues i am having with my golf 150PD, brief background- the car intermittently judders and throws out smoke @ 3000rpm and at other times it just flies!! I changed the MAF, checked boost pipes and changed 2 of them but to no avail.
Anyway recently whilst on the vagcom it came up with the foillowing fault:
16688- injector 4 intermittent misfire
the mechaic changed the injector with 2 other injectors, both of which made no difference, today he changed over my injector 3 with injector 4 (as we knew that 3 was fully functioning) as well as changing the injector wiring loom, yet it still comes up with the code????
please help???
thanks in advance. Read more
thats what i suggested as someone previously mentioned the ecu harness to me (wire from injectors to ecu), the mechanic agreed but said it was a lengthy job?
my question is would that cause the juddering and heavy smoking, it smokes even when idle??
Hi all
Pleeease help me out :-)
Pulling the bonnet release lever on my car has released the n/s catch but not the o/s.
No amount of coaxing (using two people) will release it.
does anyone know a way of getting to the catch or the cable to get it to release
I hope so.....Thanks Morrelli Read more
hi i had the same problem, you need a 3ft pole and a torch, jack the front of the car up and from underneath the engine and a bit bit of luck you can get on the catch.
there are 2 catches and one releases the other
the fuse for the interior light and headlight sensor has blown again.the first time it went i replaced the fuse and everything worked ok,two weeks later and its blown again this time i tried to replace it but it blown the fuse on contact.could it be a dodgy door contact as the first time i replaced it the door was closed. Read more
Check that fuse if ok check bulbs are they blown?
Short out switch on gearbox do lights come on?
I have a '98 Jeep Cherokee Sport with some engine/electrical problems.
The Jeep was parked for a while so this may attribute to the problem.
I have two scenarios where the Jeep conks out.
1. When idling, if I rev the Jeep and take my leg of the accelerator the Jeep will conk out and the "Engine Check" light starts flashing. Switching on and off the key resets it. This is an intermittent problem and only happens one in 40 or 50 times.
2. More seriously: When driving along at cruise speed the Jeep will just lose power and die (which means a loss of steering as well as other obvious things). This also flashes on the "Engine Check" light. But I have realised, the same as above, if I turn off the key and on again it "resets" the system and the Jeep starts fine again and drives away. This is also intermittent and can happen 4-5 times in 30 minutes or once a week.
For both problems the stop button loses power.
I have taken out and cleaned the mechanical stop button and it is/was fine.
I have unplugged the accelerator near the pedal with no interference.
I have unplugged the temp sensor with no interference.
I have also found (using a volt meter), that when problem number 1 occurs the stop button loses power the minute I take my foot off the accelerator.
I haven't approached the electronic control units yet.
Thanks in advance for your time and opinions. Read more
Great,
I just found that sensor today after reading some of your other posts. Didn't realise the Diesel engines had it.
I should note that there isn't any starting problems, just cutting out.
I'll update later after I check it out that sensor, thanks for the reply.
Browse
Call me mad but I think this gadget if it ever existed would be of benefit to me.
On my last MOT of my Mk3 Golf, it was written on the advisory list the mentioning of my "rag inside my bonnet". According to the tester, it's a fire hazard!