October 2009
Hello
I am after a bit of advice on trading my car up. I currently have a 04 plate Vectra 1.9CDTi (150). I do 80 miles a day on my commute, and the car gives me about 47-48mpg.
While it's served me well, it now has 136k on the clock and is starting to have a few issues. Nothing too major yet, but I don't want to tempt fate and have decided to trade up to something else.
I'm 6' 4" so I need something reasonably roomy, and I don't like Golfs or Focuses. It needs to be at least as economical as mine really.
My question is 2 part. a) What would forum members recommend? and b) what might I expect to get on p/x for my current car? I know the latter is hard without seeing it, but I'm just after a guideline really. Is 2-2.5k realistic? It is the "elite" model with leather trim, climate etc, has brand new MOT and 6 mths tax, and is pretty clean and tidy inside and out. On the downside, the rear brake discs need changed (just done the fronts), the air-con fan is squealing, and the service history can best be described as "partial" (20k, 40k, 55k, 100k, 120k, 135k, not main dealer). It's had timing belt, radiator and EGR valve all replaced this year.
I'm looking to spend around 7k or so cash, plus the trade in. Currently considering Passat 2.0, Civic or Accord 2.2, Alfa 159 1.9 (if I could find one), or another Vectra or mondeo. All diesels obviously. Have I missed something obvious?
Whatever I buy, I'll be looking for around 40k miles, with the idea of selling on after 3 years with less than 100k on the clock. Planning to put a WarrantyWise or similar warranty on for the full 3 years, as sick and tired of getting hit with unexpected bills. My driving is all dual carriageway and country roads.
Your thoughts (very much!) appreciated
Thanks
Joe Read more
Another question to all you much more intelligent than me people...How do you remove the top part of the centre console armrest? I know you can buy the part seperate from Ford but cant seem to see how to remove it. I just fancy getting it trimmed in leather.
As always any help will be gratefully received.
Stevie Read more
Hi,
I have a 1.8t, and one of the steel fuel pipes failed in the engine bay. Long story short it wasn't pretty and even though it sprayed all over the exhaust area it didn't go up.
My garage (which had recently serviced it) repaired it using a piece of rubber fuel hose as a joiner between the (now cut) 2 sections of fuel pipe.
Now I notice it leaks on startup especially, when the fuel pump presurrizes the system.
Even with a pair of hoseclips either end it still leaks. I guess this method is not going to work. Should I get the fuel system pressure checked in case it is too high? I noticed the note of the fuel pump changed about 2 months before this happened.
If I remember right the replacement complete hoses are sold by VW as a pack and you replace all of them. How much work is required to replace all the hose? the tank or fuel pump doesn't have to be disturbed... or?
The hoses are about 250 quid or so I think?
Any advice or guesstimates on what's involved?
Thanks
Martin Read more
Hi lads,
any ideas on the cost of replacing the fuel lines, labour and parts?
Hello All,
I've just renewed our insurance and came across something that is a bit of a suprise to me. The Wife uses the car to drive to and from one place of work. she will however once in a while drive the car to a course or seminar (Possibly twice a year) when i told the insurance company this they replied that i needed Business insurance (At a cost of about an extra 20 pounds). I've paid this as i don't believe there's any point trying to save a few quid on insurance by being economical with the truth and then finding out they won't pay up in the case of an accident.
Having looked at a few other insurance companies they all seem to be doing the same.
How many people out there are aware of this I wonder. I've been driving for 13 years and always been very careful with insurance - yet this is the first i've heard of it.
Is this a new thing or have I just been buying the wrong insurance for the last few years? Read more
I'm an opt-out former company car driver and I've certainly read of cases where the insurance company won't pay out.
Be careful on the place of work thing - some companies specify "usual" or "regular", so if you go anywhere else you could be in difficulty.
I know this is PR, but it's interesting nontheless: tinyurl.com/yhf7xc4
Anyone had one, did you find it useful abroad outside the EU or did your UK do you fine if required to produce? Read more
I agree with AE. Why risk problems for such a small outlay?
I had one for driving Saudi, Brunei and Libya and always obtained mine from Green Flag.
www.greenflag.com/downloads/idp_app_form_green.pdf
The good old PO can supply them but only at selected sites.
www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/overseas/apply-for-a...l
The RAC site says
" Counterfeit/illegal IDPs are available via the internet.
Motorists are reminded to ensure that IDPs are only purchased from officially
delegated organisations, e.g. RAC or AA in the UK."
I am not good at posting links
it was a BBC item
94? offences
Little wonder our motor insurances are getting expensive Read more
What can I say?
Never have been able to pass a gutter without stepping in it.
Has anyone been to one of the presentations that the Bloodhound SSC team are doing around the country. This is the car that aims to crack the 1000mph barrier. Went along last night and was pretty impressed by what I heard. Lots of big numbers including using an 800bhp race engine just to power the pump for the auxiliary rocket motor. Primary propulsion will be from a development version of the Eurofighter Typhoon jet engine.
Aussies and Yanks are going for it as well but my money would be on this Richard Noble fronted team again. Read more
I know Andy Green and he isn't bonkers, he is fearless. There is a difference!
On bad road surfaces there is a rattling from the boot area which I am sure relates to the roof arms/hinges of the roof. No rattles when folded. My dealer tells me this is normal. Another owner I have asked tells me he has no noise. Any ideas please. Read more
There are repair packs of parts available, if you can identify which parts are rattling.
news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/business/8317648.stm
I was watching around the world in 80 days last night with nick hewer 10/10 and saira khan 0/10 and the thing that struck me as i watched them go through countries i cant pronounce was the amount of old /new ladas there were about.
You might knock communism but at least it kept workers in my link above in food and housing Read more
>>Saw an E reg Uno yesterday...
depends on the model:
45's were either 903cc pushrod (badged FORMULA?), or 999cc FIRE in later versions.
55's and later 60's were 1116cc OHC (predecessor to FIRE, of which the 1108cc was used eventually)
70's were 1301cc OHC version of the 1116cc design.
Not sure what the designation of the 1372 turbo was...
The pushrod engine was the noisiest - prone to rattle, you might say, but the others were pretty quiet.
MK1 Puntos are fully galvanised, AFAIK, so they should be rust free unless damaged.
Hi all
Not been on for a while but am just about to buy a Fiesta Zetec Climate 3 dr 1.4 cc 56 plate from a main ford dealer my question is I am looking for a small car cheap on running costs and rd tax , there price is £6,499 one owner and 25,000 miles on the clock. , I have saved 2,000 as the deposit and to keep my payments down to £112 a month , it only comes with 3 months warranty , to buy a warranty it for a year its another £350 but starts now not at the end of the 3 months ,
would it be worth it or are they no good.
could sombody answer asap please. Read more
Car Giant will do you a 1.4 Ghia for £1k less (10k miles more but that's nowt really) or one with 10k less miles for a few hundred less but IMO the best advice has already been given, walk away and check out deals on new small cars. Fiat Panda, Toyota Aygo (or Citroen Peugeot equivalents) - not as fast but great value cars, cheaper to run and tax and 3 years peace of mind motoring for less than £1k more.which you'll get most of back on resale?
Browse
I am into my second year with a 1.9 Octavia (company car) which now has 42k on it. Only 2 services so far and no additional work at all except 2 front tyres at 25k, no faults at all. Only issues which took it off the road were 2 minor accidents and I can't blame the car for them. Averaging around 55mpg with a 60 mile a day commute. Over 60 on a run driven gently.
Had a 2.2 Accord Tourer for four years before that, 125k miles and far from faultless (posts on here somewhere), as Gordon relates at 120k it felt as new (apart from the drivers seat) - the Skoda is far better on reliability so far (touch wood). The Honda averaged 50mpg - nice drive but looking back was it really worth the extra I paid for it?? Looking forward I am more likley to replace the Octavia with another Octavia than a second Honda. And the Octavia boot swallows what we used to put in the Honda when we went to France.