October 2009
about 3 months ago i a brought engine flush and had the oil changed, since then the car does not seem to have the umph it had before, i noticed that the oil level on the dipstick is half way between the minimum and maximum points, any ideas why? Read more
had a look at my friends 306 as the electric windows wernt working, i disconnected the battery and began to search for the problem, i noticed a fuse had blown and a few wires had broken, i put in a new fuse and reconnected the wires and the windows worked fine. i then reconnected the battery and tried to start the car but it wouldnt go and the central locking had stopped working. i looked in my haines manual as i didnt no where to start i followed the instructions and cleaned and sprayed all the connections with wd40. i then took one of the plugs out came to find there was no spark. ive was told the immobiliser had shut and wasnt allowing the ecu to send power and cause a spark becuase the key wasnt being recognised. so i tried the spare but still no joy. just wondered if anyone had any idea as my friend is desperate for the car. many thanks. Read more
I am investigating a problem with fleet of around 160 of these vehicles from 06 to 08 reg typical mileage between 120-200k. The exhaust gas pressure sensors are repeatedly failing due to ingress of condensation. VW are no help but it is a known, common, problem. I have to try and get around this problem and wonder if anyone else may have found a solution ie vapour traps in the sensor pipes?
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How do you knoiw it's a condensation problem? Is the condensation getting into the exhaust side of the snsor, or the atmospheric side?
If it's condensation on the exhaust side of the sensor, can the sensor be isolated from the exhaust gas by a thin diphragm? Such that the pressure fluctutaions can still be sensed, but, no moisture can pass?
I see the recommended oil for my son's Mazda 6 diesel is Dexelia - but is there an equivalent? I dare say it costs one arm and one leg from a main dealer so I'm looking for a better priced equivalent. Any ideas?
Thanks
Robin the Technician Read more
If it had the DPF then I think it is Dexelia only. And Mazda apparently are the only (expensive) source. And with all the problems with DPF equipped Mazda's, using anything else could be false economy! They'd get out of any warranty claim in an instant.
I've used HPI in the past, but I've noticed there are many companies now offering a similar service - and cheaper.
Any recomendations?
Are the cheap ones cheap because they give less information?
Thanks
J Read more
i think jacks should read the sad story of " Bazomis"
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=2&t=79...7
It will make you think twice when you see the chaecks that were carried out. read the small print!
good luck
www.networkworld.com/news/2009/102109-goodbye-stee...l
"Today it's the stuff of video games but Toyota is experimenting with joystick control for a new breed of compact cars and transporters. The world's biggest car maker built the technology into a couple of concept vehicles that were on display Wednesday at the Tokyo Motor Show." Read more
Maybe it could be wireless like the Nintendo Wii and shaped like a steering wheel......................er
And hand it to the Mother-in-law in the back seat and tell her to get on with it!
If you could get the range to about 6 feet, you could drive another Toyota alongside and steer each other's cars....
hi all, where would the code reader link up socket be on this car? cheers Read more
can you use a pin on this elekie&a/c doctor? to read flash codes
I recently purchased a VW Golf Mk5 in early october 2009. I picked it up from a local independent dealer who works from a home office, and offered a car in part exchang. When I picked the car up visited his home office, and I know he's a legitimate dealer. It also came with a 1 year warranty from a major warranty supplier that a lot of car dealers use.
Only 2 weeks ago I had to top up the coolant, this seemed strange as I didn't have to do this on any other car I've ever bought. The next week I looked again and the coolant was on Min again, so I contacted the dealer, and he suggested I take it to a local garage for them to look at. So early this week I took the car to a local reputable garage. They have had a look, and the leak is coming from the head gasket.
I rang the dealer back, and he suggested we use the warranty and that the garage I have taken it to do the work. Which is fine.
However the warranty company will only pay out for part of the repair, and would only authorise the payment of any money on the condition that the garage take the engine apart to check the problem.
Now the car is in bits, and the warranty company won't pay for the full repair including the fluids and the cam belt kit you need to have when you change the head gasket.
What rights do I have legally? I believe under the sale of goods act that I have to give the dealer a chance to effect a repair 3 times before I can reject the car? is that correct? Do I have to pay anything towards a repair? It seems very unfair that I do. I don't have the kind of money they are asking for.
The dealer is trying his best with the warranty company, but what legal rights do I have over the dealer, and the car?
Thanks Read more
Sounds like a pretty decent dealer, in my opinion most wouldn't even return your call (Home traders i mean)
owners handbook only states where the fuses are, notwhich is which! What one is for the cig lighter? And do the wipers and washer pump work off the same fuse? Wipers work but washers dont! Cheers Read more
It's in the fusebox behind the glovebox, it's a yellow 15 as I remember and it's a beggar to get out without the correct tool. Go into your garage and ask them if they can do it as a quick favour.
my rad boils over and spews from the top, it isnt damaged and the cap is on fine. Should i bleed it first before worrying about the water pump? does this happen a lot on this E39 model? it had been driving fine, lots of history and a recent new head, 145k, help! Read more
These engines run a high pressure system and condition of the rad cap is of paramount importance. If its weak it will let the system boil up as yours is doing. First port of call then bleed the system. As you rev the engine you will notice the big hoses can be felt to actually swell slightly with the pressure, if not the pump may have lost its impeller but you will not have much of a heater either.


The button is just above the ignition and has a symbol of three(ish) horizontal lines and a dot....
Tell me, do all the lights come on on the dash display and is there a mad-tick/pulsing noise when you turn the ignition to "II" with the key and absolutely nothing when you try and turn it over.....?
If so can someone who knows what they are doing and can explain things nice and simply and slowly get involved as I think I may have the same problem!