August 2009
Hello peoples, I wonder if there is anyone that could advise me please. I recently purchased a Vauxhall Astravan Dual fuel. I did buy the vehicle with a problem, and that was that it will not tickover on LPG. Runs on petrol ok but misses now and again,It starts first time every time on petrol,when the engine has reached normal operating temperature, I can switch over to LPG and after a splutter and a little hesiatation,it will run-but you know your'e on LPG. My biggest problem is that when I get to a junction or come to a stop, it will cut out completely. It will start on LPG straight away, but every time I stop this happens I have to keep restarting. Also, when I click the roker switch across to operate the gas, the green light flashes, then goes off after 3 clicks from the tank at the back. Is the green light supposed to stay on whils on LPG ?
The van will tick over on LPG allbeit it a little lumpy, and will drive down the motorway but as I say, you know your'e on gas. Also, If I start on gas again when the engine is at full temperature, it will tick over but if I touch the accelerator slightly, it will cut out.
I've read of EGR valves and filters and vaporizers, but are these things likely to go faulty? and where are they locatated in my engine?
Sorry forum members that this is a bit long winded, just that I like the van but I don't want to have to spend zillions on it to get it right.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Edited and changed model as Combo Van is based on the Corsa, not Astra Read more
Hi there
Some of you might remember a few months back that after much palaver we bought a 2005 (05 plate) Focus 1.6 with the 115 bhp engine (roughly 45K).
The only problem (apart from a bit of road noise on some surfaces) is that we seem to averaging a mere 32mpg which is pretty damm poor (we've done 3 brim to brim calculations).
It's SWMBO who drives it. The usual journey is 4.5 miles of single carrigeway A road followed by two miles of town driving. She doesn't use the air con much and is a reasonably steady driver.
It's coming up for a service and obviously we'll make sure that the air filter and plugs are changed and see what happens after that (Tyres pressures are fine). Is there anything else you can think off to ask the garage to investigate as a possible cause of the problem?
Otherwise, nice car despite the annoying habit of not starting if I leave it parked on a (upward) slope if the fuel warning light is on!
As always thanks in advance
Steve Read more
When I was at school it we did sums in pounds, shillings and pence, but then learnt the metric system, so I can convert Imperial to Metric with no problem.
The S.I. 'official' metric units, however, are hardly user friendly or sensible for daily use. For example, dimensions of length,width and height of cars are now given in millimetres - a completely inappropriate unit. ...
This applies to the 8v version not the 16v. Whenever i check my sister's car after a few months the oil level is below minimum. There is no oil stain on the ground or around the engine bay. When starting, running or setting off there is no blue smoke. The oil level warning light comes on as you start the car then goes off quickly. This has been happening for a year now. Naturally i top it up but it takes ages to register on the dipstick. The car has done 60k. The next step is to drive behind her and see if i can detect any blue smoke. Read more
Had a similar occurrence on my old Astra 1.6L SXI (52 reg).
I had the car for seven years and what was odd is that the engine did not burn or leak oil.
But, every now and then the oil would just disappear.
I checked the oil every week and for five or six weeks with the oil level would be ok, then it would be on the minimal marker.
I came to the conclusion that the engine will burn oil if low.
So my work around was to fill the oil level till almost full and guess what it never used oil then from then on.
I suspect the 1.6L engines use oil if below some level but didn't burn a drop of oil if it was kept high (3/4 to nearly high marker).
This was my work around and I can say that in seven years of ownership this work around did help.
Hi Everyone,
You may have read my previous post about my tyre valves blowing up.
This by far is 10x worse and dangerous.
I was travelling down a A road on the way to cambridge on a chore for my mum. The speed i was travelling was approx. 65 MPH and then suddenly i noticed the car speeding up by its self so my instant reaction thought the car mat may be stuck on the gas but it wasnt, i was increasly getting closer to a roundabout (700yrds) and hit 100mph and the revs was stuck on complete max over 6,000 revs so the next thing i done was to switch off the engine and i see a slip road so i dramatically swerved over luckily not hitting any cars or flipping over & finally came to a stop!! (whilst my engine was off)
I waited 2 hours for RAC to arrive & to check my car and he said to me that the oil has been overfilled to past the max (on the dipstick it was near the top of the stick) and that may cause the problem. The car is only 11 months old and was checked my mazda approx 6 months ago and was ticked as the oil level is ok.
What legal rights do i have here? The car at the moment is at mazda dealer and me and my dad have said we dont want the car back, or repaired as this is the second time this car has put our lives at risk. Again, like the tyre valves snnapping on my previous post and this one mazda are damn lucky both situations didnt end up worse.
Mazda dealer have told me to ring head office, but before i do i would appreciate any advice on my rights.
Thank you for reading & any advice will be greatly appreciated. Read more
As a previous Mazda 323TD owner, which was faultless after 7 years and 150k of trouble-free motoring, it is very disappointing to hear about the disasterous Mazda 6 saga. Mazda should be totally ashamed of losing its legendary reputation for reliability but then it's now in the Ford/Peugueot family for diesel technology.
Am I right in guessing that the modern Madza common rail diesels are actually of French origin in which case I woudn't touch them with with a barge pole? 3 neighbours of mine were unfortunate owners of diesel Lagunas, Espaces and Meganes and RAC/AA low-loaders have been regular visitors to our estate over the past 2 years or so to recover them and the cost of repairs quickly negated the so-called mpg fuel economy benefits. Not a good advertisement for Renaults.
Hi.
I got 2005 Ford Focus MK2 1.6 TDCI,93000 miles done.
When the engine is warm and at speeds exceeding 50 miles,sometimes I get light blue smoke coming form the exhaust, but only if I take my foot off the accelerator.Then if I put the accelerator again,the smoke disapears.It is not happening every day.
1.Valve stem oil seals-NO-it is opposite situation.
2.Emission test done-OK.
3.Had it on the computer as well and nothing came up,except some turbo faults.
4.Turbo has been changed at 80 thousand miles.
5.Injectors tested-OK.
6.No warning lights on the dashboard.
{moved across to tech matters}
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StanTheMan78,
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Any help diagnosing this problem with my 55 17k Kia Picanto would be much appreciated!
I was driving home the other day and stopped to get petrol. Upon getting back in the car it wouldn't start. The starter motor initially turned over slowly then there was just a clicking sound.
I managed to get a jump start and drove the couple of miles home with no problem. Upon parking and switching off the engine, I tried to start it again but got the same as previous.
It may or may not be relevant, but a few days before this occurred I thought the windscreen wipers were laboring a little, but decided it must just be in my head. I can't actually remember whether this was stationary or on the move, but the engine was running.
I bought the car in December and as far as I know it's still on the original battery. The car is generally used for short runs but does get used for a couple of hour+ journeys every week.
Is there any way to deduce whether it's the battery or alternator that has failed without getting it to a garage? Or is it perhaps worth getting a new battery anyway and then see if that was the problem?
Thanks in advance.
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PhiL Read more
Hi, Phil, may i know what is the end of the story of your picanto? What cause the corrosion?
Can i have your email address? I am a new car owner of new model picanto bought at 2010. I face similar situation with you. My engine compartment and bonnet is corroded.
Can someone please advise the easiest way to change the front strut top mounts on the Ka.
I think it may be possible to do it as follows:- raise front of car and support on axle stands, remove front wheels, remove strut top nut and top plate from inside bonnet, from inside wheel arch lever down strut then remove rubber top mount and replace. Finally raise strut, fit top plate and nut and lower car.
Also any advice on releasing the very tight top nuts would be appreciated.
Thanks
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I expect after 14 years, the little KA has gone on to have another life!
Yet another member of the EPS Club !
Recently bought a 2nd hand FSI S 1.6 (Jun 06) with 9,000 on the clock (an ex-mobility car) from a local (reputable) dealer in East Sussex. One month into use and apparently not covered by the dealer's 6 month's warranty, the EPS light goes on. Local VW main dealer in Tunbridge Wells (Motorline) most helpful and sympathetic but advise that major costs would be involved to replace the offending unit.
Fortunately, Motorline are willing to submit case to VW for review even though the problem has arisen outside the normal VW warranty and are hopeful of full coverage.
From the other posts on HJ this is clearly an ongoing problem with this brand.
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Isn't it EPC (Electronic Power Control) perhaps. Light on the dashboard lights and the car wont rev.
Have a look at http://volkswagen-polo-highline.blogspot.com/ it may be what you refereing to....
Hi,
Just been to the garage to hear the news that my x reg focus has failed its MOT emissions test by massive margins! The HC rating was a huge 925 missing the pass mark of 200. The mechanic did some investigations and discovered the engine compression was right down at 95,100,95,100 rather than in the 140s I think.
The car is otherwise in good condition and drives fine, I don't do many miles and am not worried about performance at all. The mechanic said it needs a new engine but considering the age of the car would not consider it economic - current engine has done 110,000. I am looking for any fix that could just get it through the MOT emissions test. The mechanic mentioned it may be worth buying some Slick 50 to improve compressions which will help the emissions.
If there is any hope of reducing the emissions from 925 right down to 200 or is the car scrap? Read more
On behalf of anyone who needs this for reference, thanks for the info!
I originally tagged this on to mlc's thread about the Getz but would like to seek views from the i10 owners here so hope it's OK to create fresh thread in order to catch their eye. Hope that's OK with the mods and they'll make necessary alterations if it's not.
In Feb. 08 the BR covered Hyundai servicing costs. The obvious question was raised...... Can I still maintain my 5 yr warranty and have it serviced at an independant garage?
'midlifecrisis', who was asking about servicing, made the following point........"It has to be VAT registered to keep the warranty intact. It's nothing to do with competence".
Which elicited the following............."Where does it say that?"
Taken from the Hyunda website......
"The Routine Maintenance Service Record is THE ONLY PROOF that the vehicle has been correctly serviced and that the warranty is valid. All routine maintenance servicing must be supported by a VAT invoice to provide adequate proof that the vehicle has been maintained correctly to reduce the risk of the manufactures Warranty being invalidated. The Routine Maintenance Service Record within the booklet must still be completed. The invoices must detail the Servicing Garage Name, Address, VAT number, Details of the Service carried out and parts that have been replaced etc."
So in black and white it must be a VAT registered garage - as most already suspected. The problem is, of course, you don't get any manufacturers updates or TSB's implemented and you probably lose any percieved goodwill of the dealer when you go to him with a warranty problem. So you either pay top money for the routine servicing or go elsewhere and risk grief as described.
What have people been paying to service an i10 and is it generally thought best to pay up for an easy life?
Read more
I've always thought my local Hyundai dealer was OK for servicing -always an efficient and courteous, helpful service. Never had any trouble with them (3 years with a Coupe) and I will continue to take the Getz we have to them. You always know what the cost is going to be and they are open Saturday mornings too where I am which can be handy. They'll also give you a lift locally or collect your car if you ask them within a reasonable distance.
Why not give them a try first?
Browse
There is many lpg vaporisers to just list a way of cleaning and servicing a simple carb back in the day was easy but these things take a bit more work.
They clog up with tar in the vaporiser and require cleaning out the diaphrams get weak or split, overhaul kits supplied to service.
The gas filter lock is overlooked when removed is full of heavy ends it can be done but better left to a specialist if you have never done one. imop................