bulb blown.Can anyone tell me how to remove electrical connector.Should this just pull off or is there some sort of knack to it?Any help gratefully recieved.Many thanks. Read more

Hi,

I've decided to post this here because I literally don't know what to do in a situation I've found myself in.

First, some background. My girlfriend owns an 03 206 3 door hatchback which has done 33k miles and is running really well. Cheap to run and insure. It is parked nearby our house on the road overnight.

However over the past 2 years there have been a numerous incidents which have damaged the car:
a) Someone kicked the near-side wing in (new wing, repaired - claimed on insurance in Feb this year -- insurance renews every July)
b) Someone walked over the car one Friday night about 3 weeks ago, denting the bonnet and flimsy 206 roof.
c) This morning, one of our neighbours drove into the near-side door, denting it noticeably but not breaking the paint and exposing a ridge which I assume to be the side impact protection. I know who they are and they want to swap insurance details.
d) numerous other small scuffs and scrapes which I would get repaired if it went in for B and/or C

Points B & C are the two which I am looking to get repaired and possibly D depending on cost.

In light of point A I'm loathed to go near the insurers - our excess is something like £300 anyway and it will only get point C fixed.

I spoke to a local & respected garage who looked at the car this morning and they reckon it will be a write-off due to the age of the car: about £1000 for the insurers to buy a new door and spray it back in - something they probably won't want to do?

I'm told that to buy a door second-hand and spray back in would cost roughly £250 to do - much more appealing. The same garage could repair all the other dents to roof, bonnet etc for a total of £1300 including the door - this would fix all points B, C & D.

We love the car, it's running great and it certainly isn't a write-off in my mind.

My questions are, if anyone can help:
1. Can I pick up the phone to the insurer and describe the situation to get an idea as to whether it would be a write-off or not? i.e. if yes, we go down the cash repair route - but how does that affect things with them? They know about the incident then...
2. Is it likely to be a write-off for the door damage?
3. If so, how do they calculate the value of the car to compensate us?
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I?ve a 1972 Ford Transit Camper. I was having a brake problem with loosing fluid so called out a mobile mechanic. He diagnosed a problem with the rear brakes, asking me to get the parts. As instructed I bought, shoes, fit kit, cylinders for both sides and he came and rebuilt the brakes. Less than a mile later there was a bang and the rear brakes on one side had come away, bending the back plate, wrecking the new parts and snapping the brake pipe. This leaves me with a vehicle I can not even move, I?ve bought shoes, fit kit and cylinder and he said he will come back and rectify the work. He has not been seen since, and isn?t answering his phone; he has the keys and has been paid.

He?s not admitted responsibility but I fail to see how it couldn?t be his fault. What do I do now?
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I was hoping for some help.

I have a Grand Voyager 3.3 auto which has been been off the road for 1 year. Car was occassionally started during this time, most recently 3 months ago. Put a new battery on with the aim of finally getting it MoT'd but cannot start it. All lights are on, immobiliser goes off but the engine doesn't even crank.

Strangely, when checking the usual fuses, the Fuel pump fuse blew when replacing it although the ignition was off and key removed. I am worried that this may be a fuel pump problem (Ugh at least £350 plus labour)...so was hoping to cover off all bases before spending unecessary ££.

Have read other forum posts on immobiliser issues etc but it doesn't seem to be related though I don't know what effect faulty relays would have on the problem.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as budget is V tight and I can't afford to buy another car Read more

I'm having a couple of problems with the C5, which may be related.

It's been in to the dealers recently after I complained of poor shifting on the autobox, especially between 2nd-3rd. It's worst when stone cold and improves when the car is warmed up.

They changed the hydraulic valve body, ATF and the gearbox wiring harness. After 2 weeks of messing with it, they claim it's OK now, well it isn't. :( Thankfully, I haven't paid for any of this work...

The other problem, which they ignored (despite bugging them about it!) is that when the car is started from cold, the engine surges up and down slightly. Enough to make the car shudder a little for 40 seconds or so and then it starts to settle down. It could be a misfire, but I'm not sure.

I wondering if the two sets of issues could be linked somehow? Other symptoms I've noticed are:
-the engine never seems to go into overrun (according to the computer display), even on long downhills with no throttle input from me
-the creep on the autobox is so strong when cold, that I can barely hold the car back on the brakes

As above, it's a C5 3.0 V6 petrol (35k miles) with the Aisin AM6 gearbox, a.k.a TF80SC, as also used by Ford, Volvo, Vauxhall etc. I know the gearbox should be very smooth, as I've driven other cars with this box and they were fine.

Any ideas to go back to the dealer with? There's no codes stored at all. Read more