July 2009
hi guys I really need your help to check my cambelt timing as i am not convinced i have it correct. the pulley /s to engine marks are not very obvious and i want to start again from scratch. van has been sluggish and overheats since changing the belt all I require are the crank camshaft and pump alignment marks anyone give me a clue as they are not easy to see best wishes to all jeff Read more
Hey all, first time post here.
I've got the 115 version of the Focus, and I am very pleased with the car so far, had it for about 9 months.
However, I recently got a Ford franchised dealer to carry out an air conditioning service as the air conditioning wasn't blowing as cold as it should. It came back and the air con was nice and cold and all was good.
A week after the service, I switched the air con and and noticed that with the air con on the car was making quite a groaning sound, quite loud as I could here it above the radio. I confirmed it was the air conditioning as when I turned it off, the groaning stopped.
I returned the car to the Ford dealer for them to diagnose the problem. They came back and said that the compressor and clutch assembly needs replacing at a total cost of £950. I was quite shocked as you can imagine at the cost, and obviously did not get the work done.
I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem, and if it is right to be suspicious that although the air con still blows cold, it has broken so shortly after the dealer had serviced it, and not noticed any problems?
I was thinking of getting a second diagnosis from an independent in the Leeds/Bradford area, if anyone knows of a good one?
Would appreciate a response, sorry about the long post!! Read more
I had to have a new compressor on my 54 Focus C-Max (not unreasonable to think it may be the same part). Can't remember the exact cost, but it was in the realms of £250-£400, certainly way less than the £900+ you were quoted. Mine had basically cracked open and the UV dye from the refridgerant was all over the place, according to the guys from Rapidfit.
Not the first report I've seen of knackered A/C compressors on Focus II/Cmax that I've seen either, but not clear whether this is a systemic problem for this model yet.
Hello Audi lovers, wondering if anyone has some advice to share with me please. I bought a second-hand Audi A3 a couple of months ago and have experienced some misfiring problems. The EMS light was coming on maybe once a week and the car was shuddering and losing power. Got to the stage where it began happening all the time and then the warning light stayed on and car is now undrivable.
The local Audi dealership wanted to replace all the ignition coils without any investigation so I took it to an Audi independent specialist who says they replaced a couple of ignition coils as well as the Injector #2 5 months back. They checked all coils again, the injector and the spark plug and my car is in seemingly perfect mechanical condition. They are still testing it and seem to think it is a computer problem and suggested they may need to replace the computer or have it fixed and they are testing it to see if they can isolate the problem within the computer.
My friend had a similar problem with an Audi and he disonnected the Mass Sensor which seemed to fix the issue. Done a bit of digging around on the web and seems this is a common Audi fault.
Does anyone know about this issue? Read more
your very welcome. Which pipe was split?
James
I have a Peugeot 607 STD 2.2 first registered 16 October 2002 - over the last few weeks the dashboard has been indicating several problems and when these flash up the engine cuts out and although I am able to re-start the engine as soon as I try to rev the engine to engage the gears it cuts out again - normally the car will start to work normally again after about 30 minutes then there can be a delay of anything from a few miles to several hundred miles before I have any more problems... the messages on the dashboard consist of a couple of images of an engine block, a warning triangle with an exclamation mark in the middle and ESP above the triangle and ASR below the triangle - and then a verbal message saying ASR/ESP System Defective or Anti-Pollution System Defective. When checked the fault codes vary between P0502 P0351 and P0204 - I believe that this is a fault with injectors 2 and 3 but not sure ???!!! Thanks, sparky Read more
if you are confident to try then this site will help
www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=DTC_0505
quick search mentioned
glow plugs
although you need to check each code. i found you can get the tools on ebay or ask around. a reset can work sometimes.
Vinny
My Focus has done 80000 of trouble free miles until now.
Air conditioning works well but when sitting in traffic with the engine idling the RPM sometimes starts to hunt up and down accompanied by a lot of clicking from the compressor clutch. Sometimes the engine stops. This can also happen when slowing down to enter a driveway etc. This can be disconcerting as then power steering is lost.
The garages cleaned the system and replaced the gas but the problem persists. As it is only an intermittant problem I have not been able to demonstrate what happens (Sods law!).
Any idea what the problem could be and how to fix it?
Tiki
{typo in header corrected} Read more
Belated thanks for all the replies but the problem was eventually traced to the AC cooling fan. This either runs at low or high speed. On my car the low speed never cut in so as the pressure built and eventually the high speed cut in placing a sudden load on the engine which at times caused it to cut out. The guy who found the fault had never seen this before.
i have been to mechanic with car in limp mode with the sparks plug light flasihng. he has put it on diagnostics and it is giving out code p2263! has anyone got any idea wot the hell is wrong with it we have been told it could be injectors or turbo or split pipe! i have noticed that there is alot of people out there with similar problems and was wondering if any one has got to the bottom of the problem! please help i am slowly losing my temper with the damm thing. Read more
the arm does move right up until the glow plugs light and engine mangement light comes on. then it wont budge!!
SQ
On the 23rd of June I took my car to a garage to have diagnose and possibly fix my gearbox leak. The trouble is the garage said that the gearbox would have to be removed from the vehicle and "stripped down" in order to replace the gear selector linkage seal from inside the gearbox at a cost of about £300. Not only did they get this wrong but took it upon themselves, without asking my permission, to use a sealer in the gearbox/oil in order to try and stop the leak. Not happy with this, I took the car for a second opinion at a Ford garage I have used for a few years now and as soon as the technician got the car off the ground and looked underneath the transmission casing he said that it was the selector shaft seal that was leaking and that it could be renewed at a cost of about £85! without any need at all to separate the gearbox from the vehicle.
He also said that he could not see any sign of the sealer that the garage supposedly used. I intend to get the job done properly now at the Ford garage I mentioned.
However my concern is if the garage has used sealer mixed in with the oil would it necessarily damage the gears, bearings etc inside the gearbox and also the Ford technician checked the oil level in the gearbox and said that it was quite full. This could be just because the vehicle had been driven.
Does the oil level in the gearbox rise after the vehicle is driven and is it possible to overfill a manual gearbox and should I be worried ? Read more
Good advice, of course. Specified fluids and no additives at all times.
To answer the other point raised, the oil level will rise significantly when the oil heats up after driving. (That's how thermometers work - liquids expand more than solids). To counter this, when in use, some oil will be retained in the upper parts of the case - lowering the apparent level.
After driving and with warm oil, nearly all of it would be in the bottom of the gearcase after 5 minutes or so - hot oil has a low viscosity. So, replace the oil and fill it to the specified level - cold.
659.
hi all i've got an 807 and its got a tappet type noise coming from the top of the engine can anyone help pls, its had a cam belt done could the timing be slightly out? also when its rev'd the noise goes away. thanks in advance for any help. Read more
I have 2 separate cars with 2 separate problems (1 is the mothers the other the missus)
1st the front wiper works on continuous mode and fastest but not intermittent or the wash cycle. Ive changed the wiper stalk thinking it was that but didtnt solve it. Is it likely to be the motor or the wiring?
2nd the brakes on my mothers car were looked at last year and have good pad and disc life. The fluid was also changed. However when pulling up to stop theres a knocking/juddering noise heard and felt in the pedal. The car seems to stop ok. Any ideas?
Read more
From new , my lane changing indicator function would only work say 9 times out of 10.
It is supposed to flash the indicators 3 times (a bit like a BMW or Mini) and is vital on the Motorway.
Well it didn't work as advertised so the switch gear was changed but with no improvement you can guess the Mercedes Benz response...
"that's the way it is you have to live with it"
Sure enough I had shown the same fault in a Brand New Car in the Showroom so I guess it's one problem that will cost MB money to fix.
After a year with my C220 my advice is don't buy one.
It's a lovely drive and otherwise well constructed but the controls have let it down.
Not since my Volvo 440 in 1991 have I felt so bad about a car.
It has to go. Read more
Nothing. However I have these on my Qashqai and like them, just a quick flick on the stalk and I can get on with driving.


hi peter checkedall timing marks at the weekend and all are ok at alosss now to explain poor peformance and overheating not themostsat have run it without .......the same, injectors ??
any ideas appreciated jeff