May 2009
hi,2003 peugeot expert 2.0 hdi
starts fine in cold mornings
once warm will not start/seems to fire but wont start
although will start with a very short tow
i had a diagnostic check and code 1108 was present??
checked in tank fuel pump
changed rail sensor and high pressure pump sensor
once started van operates perfectly as it should until its switched off
will run all day??
could this be either high pressure pump or starter motor?
i have had leak off injector test and all are ok
thanks for looking Read more
I was watching old 'Between the Lines' and was taken with the late Tony Doyle's gorgeous L-reg British Racing Green Range Rover. So I started wondering about buying one of them from that era, although you don't see many of them around these parts (Illinois). I'd always wanted one but was put off by the bad tales about the classic version.
I thought about the more recent ones and checking the car by car for the more recent P38 was amazed by the 'appalling catalogue of build problems'.
OK what about the L322. They must have sorted the problems surely. First thing I noticed is the prices from 58k-78k. And the second was that the front diff life is 40,000-60,000 miles. Transmission 100,000 miles. Instruments 70,000 miles.
I didn't even read up on the supercharged sport versions.
I guess I'm just shocked that while gorgeous to look at Range Rovers still seem to have such reliability issues. Also that a vehicle costing that much should have vital components with such a short life expectation!
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I saw a K reg diesel RR in Tesco car park the other day, tatty but sounded healthy.
My Passat 130 TDI which I've had from new is lacking power prior to the turbo cutting in. For example where I would drive up hill in top gear I now have to change gear and get the turbo to cut in to accelerate up the hill. I've changed the MAF, Fuel Filter, Air Filter and the Water Temp Sensor (on the rear of the cylinder head) all to no avail. Read more
I'd suspect a vacuum leak in one of the vacuum hoses, or a faulty N75 valve (the one that controls the VNT), or a faulty N18 (the one that controls the EGR).
Does anyone know of a company that will cover a number of vehicles under 1 legal expenses policy.
Thanks,
Mark Read more
Primo plc (primoplc.com) specialise in multi-vehicle insurance and legal expenses is charged per driver not per vehicle.
See www.honestjohn.co.uk/guides_insurance/insuring-mul...m
Got a little polo GTi at the moment, and it cut out on the motorway this morning.
Called out the AA, and the cambelt has snapped :(
It's gone into a garage so they can take the head off and have a look at the damage, but even best case scenario is going to be bent valves etc I'm guessing.
Anyone had this before? Guessing as a min I'm looking at some bent valves and prob need a head skim, gasket and new belt?... Read more
I had a 2.0 ltr 8 valve Laguna a few years ago.engine just stopped at 30 mph, no noise, I thought it was an electric fault- 4 exhaust valves bent, Head skim (be foolish not too,whilst its off) and a Gasket set -£300 including labour at my local garage. And all my own fault for not changing the belt when I should have done-Big lesson learned. Good Luck with your car.Regards Mick.
I need to have a small patch welded onto one sill, just ahead of the rear wheel and on the lower surface of the sill, so it will be facing the road surface. I know the welder will immediately smother the area with some sort of undercoat, but having not had to have any welding on a car for over 10 years now, what is the best procedure today for protecting this repair, and in fact to be able to paint it to match the body colour?
Do I need to remove the stuff he applies and use something of my own, or do I simply spray over whatever he applies? I'm a bit lost here, any help is greatly appreciated.
Moved from Discussion - and yes jbif the OP knows as do the other mods. Read more
Use something like POR15 and then go over the top with a flexible sealer such as underseal or dumdum. It may be almost impossible to paint the back of the repair, depending on how it's designed, you may be able to remove a plug and spray a protectant such as Dinitrol Corromax in there.
On Spanish motorway ~ tinyurl.com/qkwfgj
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For those posting on this thread and making out this guy is some kind of
hero the next time you get hit by a driver who is speeding please feel
free to come back and post your thoughts.
Highly unlikely on a motorway, don't you think?
I am trying to change the rubber engine monts on my 1955 Morris Minor. I have tried undoing the nuts from the mounts and then jacking up the engine (Thinking it would just lift off the mounting brackets) the mount retaining bolt that fits onto the mounting bracket jams when lifting the engine.
Any suggestions
Don Read more
Working on these cars is so different from working on modern cars - while you aren't too troubled by electronics, you face the uncertainty of every nut and bolt you touch being seized solid and rusty.
In practical terms, working on modern cars, where you're reasonably sure that a bolt will undo and unscrew when you use the correct spanner or socket is so much easier.
With the tie rod, make sure that you set it up so that it isn't either pushing or pulling the engine, and don't be tempted to over-crush the rubber bushes. The tie rod should be fairly stress free.
If you mis-install the tie rod, the panels under the battery tray can end up being over-stressed and damaged as well as the tie rod transmitting a lot of noise and vibration to the dash area of the car.
I have an acceleration problem with my Focus.
Accelerating in higher gears i.e 3rd, 4th 5th from about 3000rpm onwards the revs rise dramatically but the car is not accelerating. Does not seem to oocur in first gear.
Feels like the clutch pedal is being dipped. No burning smell from it though.
Could it be Electronic ??
Have recently replaced the vehicle speed sensor but not sure if this is connected to the problem.
Would be most grateful if anyone could point me in the right direction.
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It sounds as if your car's clutch is slipping, and needs to be renewed before it fails completely. If you need to drive it in the meantime, try to avoid slipping the clutch (by being extra gentle with the accelerator, and changing down a gear if the clutch starts to slip) because every second of slippage shorten's the thing's remaining life.
when the engine is running there is a lot of vibration within the car,if you depress the clutch the vibration lessens, its been to a garage but they cant solve it, they have checked engine mounts, and exhaust, no issues, anyone have any ideas, Read more
sometimes the exhaust pipe attachment to the gearbox fractures.
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hi did you find out the problem i have the same exact thing??