I am trying to change the rubber engine monts on my 1955 Morris Minor. I have tried undoing the nuts from the mounts and then jacking up the engine (Thinking it would just lift off the mounting brackets) the mount retaining bolt that fits onto the mounting bracket jams when lifting the engine.
Any suggestions
Don
Edited by Webmaster on 14/05/2009 at 14:05
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You also need to remove the inner two bolts and slacken the outer two that hold either of the engine mounting towers to the engine bay floor/chassis leg.
This allows the engine mounting tower to move aside, allowing you to take the first mount out - leaving lots of room to get the other mount out.
You only need to loosen one engine mounting tower, so, look carefully, and see which of them, left or right, has the best nuts/bolts on it - making your job easier!
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From very distant memory ( more than 40yrs!) it maybe beneficial to undo the engine tierod at the rear of the head (to battery tray) to allow the maximum movement of the engine.
If you are changing the mounts because of engine judder, it may be worth checking the rubbers on the tie rod. If there is no tierod fitted it maybe wise to add one, or check that the bracket it is fitted to has not been torn out. I can send a copy of the original workshop manual detailing drilling fitting if you require.
There was also a engine/gearbox steady cable fitted on some models at the rear of the gearbox, to overcome some clutch judder problems I think.
NC - did not have you down as old enough to remember the Morris Minor!
p
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>>There was also a engine/gearbox steady cable fitted on some models at the rear of the gearbox, to overcome some clutch judder problems I think.
The cable is fitted or retro-fitted to prevent the fan hitting the radiator under hard braking, and shouldn't be tight under static conditions.
>>NC - did not have you down as old enough to remember the Morris Minor!
I'll choose to take that as a compliment - thank you!
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Probably worth reading this thread for judder problems
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=23130&...f
(Dont know why is apparently on a secire site???????)
NC I had often wondered about the cable, altho I had never seen it as described for that purpose! But it must also tighten up the clutch linkage as well?
p
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Off the top of my head, I can't remember the exact adjustment procedure for the cable between the cross member and the gearbox - my recollection is that normally, it shouldn't take any load.
The clutch linkage, if everything on the linkage is well aligned and in good condition to begin with, should be reasonably free from the effect of the engine and gearbox moving around, despite comprising only solid metal links.
Phrased reciprocally, the engine and gearbox shouldn't move significantly if you push the clutch pedal down.
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Thank you NC for your good advice. Its five past nine and I have finished changing the engine mounts, I managed to remove three of the bolts and move the mounting tower enough to remove the old mountings and fit the new ones, with a bit of a struggle. However the job is done and I took the old girl for a spin and she is much quieter now. The Morris was very noisy, hence the reason for changing the mounts. I may change the tie-rod rubber next it looks a bit past it's best.
Now for the next job but I will post a new message for that one.
Thanks to everyone who gave their advice.
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Working on these cars is so different from working on modern cars - while you aren't too troubled by electronics, you face the uncertainty of every nut and bolt you touch being seized solid and rusty.
In practical terms, working on modern cars, where you're reasonably sure that a bolt will undo and unscrew when you use the correct spanner or socket is so much easier.
With the tie rod, make sure that you set it up so that it isn't either pushing or pulling the engine, and don't be tempted to over-crush the rubber bushes. The tie rod should be fairly stress free.
If you mis-install the tie rod, the panels under the battery tray can end up being over-stressed and damaged as well as the tie rod transmitting a lot of noise and vibration to the dash area of the car.
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