March 2009
I hope someone can help with this. The socket is supposed to be under the ashtray, between the handbrake and gear lever. This car doesnt have the ashtray just a rubber coin holder and tray thing. If you take it out...nothing under there. I have searched everywhere else under the dash and in the footwells but cant find it. Autodata conveniently doesnt show a picture (what do I pay £500+ for??) and my local dealer probably doesnt have a clue either!
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I've read HJ's explanation on this on the site but its a little vague.
So many car dealers say there is no warranty offered on their cars, some say 1 month, some say 3 months. Today I had a knew one and was told it comes with 1 month engine and gearbox warranty but that excludes electrics.
Now the cars in question range from £1500 to £2000 so I am not talking about £300 bangers here. I understand that a buyer cannot expect a compreshensive warranty on a £500 car or even £1000 one but the law seems a little vague on this.
Can anybody else explain this to me in more simple terms? Are the traders braking the law by not offering a warranty? Read more
Yeah that makes sense but it gets very complicated. What say if it developed a
knock from the big ends but the car was clearly drivable? The car is still
fit for the purpose but the engine could conk out soon.
What if the chasis turns out to be a bit rusty but just about meets
the MOT standards?
In either of those cases, if you are relying on SoGA, then you simply hope that the dealer rolls over and agrees with you and provides a refund or repairs. If the dealer doesn't agree then you have to take them to court and argue it out with a judge. It'll be up to him to decide whether you're being unreasonable or not. I would suspect that a chassis that's about to give way through rot on a £3K car would be classified as unacceptable, the noise would be more debateable (see example below)
It's not a level of protection that I would be factoring into my decision making process when buying a car, if I was buying something pricey I would be keen to see a decent warranty, if it was only cheap then imo I'm not on this planet long enough to mess about arguing things in court.
In the case of the big end example that you give, my car has had a slight knock in the engine since I bought it 20K ago, it's still driving absolutely fine *touches wood*, therefore I think that if I had tried to argue with the trader I may have lost! (car isn't worth it anyway as it only cost £2,200 so if something mega catastrophic goes wrong it'll be Ebayed and I'll buy another)
I have a 2003 Ford Ka, Duratec engine, 34000 miles on the clock.
Set off this morning (with a full tank of petrol). About 25 miles or so, driving along at about 50 mph, I started noticing what I would describe as a very slight "kangaroo petrol" effect - i.e. the car would feel like it was hesitating slightly and then surge forward slightly. And I mean 'slightly'. It was so slight as to make me wonder at first if it was my imagination. It didn't do it constantly, but continued to do it on an off.
About 50 miles later, the Engine Warning Light went on. This has never happened before. The handbook says "If [the Engine Warning Light] illuminates with the engine running, it indicates a malfunction. Have it checked by your dealer as soon as possible."
Obviously I will be taking it to the dealer, but has anyone any idea what the fault might be?
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>>Spent getting on for a grand at a trusted indie
Ouch. I hope that mine really is the injector.
The bad news is that I didn't actually take it to the dealer. I went to an independent who happens to be just down the road from the dealer, and he, having ascertained that the problem was an injector, contacted the dealer.
He's pretty sure that it is an injector because the fault code told him it was the number 4 injector, and he changed over the number 2 and 4 injectors, and the diagnostic told him it was the number 2. I hope he's right. On the positive side, for the last 90 miles the vehicle has been running faultlessly.
But it sounds like I need to be careful.
At how many miles should the cam belt be renewed on a 53 reg 1.6 zetec auto? Read more
I know it's not the same but I've got a Fiesta 53 plate, TDCi and Ford reccommend changing at 150,000 miles or every 10 years, whatever comes first.
Hello,
My 1.9 TDI DSG Golf has done just over 60k miles. When should the cambelt be changed and what is a reaonable price for doing this job(I will not be using a main dealer).
Thanks for your help.
{subject header amended to include a summary of question being asked} Read more
Just spoke to my local VW dealership. They are doing a 'promotion' £299 for the cambelt change. if the water pump needs doing then approx another £100.
So £400!!!!
And they wonder why no one goes to get their car serviced at a dealership!!!!
My dads car won't start. It has been running fine then all of the sudden this morning there is no life in it. It just clicking noise and the engine clearly isn't turning over.
I have checked the battery which is reading 12.5v, the connections all look good and the connections to the starter motor look ok.
The car has always started first time everytime before.
My dad said the central locking was being silly before this happened so I wonder if it could be an imboliser problem or is this car not that clever?
Is there anything else I could try? Read more
Turned out it was just the battery all along, it had full voltage but had lost its ampage in the over night frost. A new battery has solved it and it no turns over in a second.
Hi Guys, I am reposting this question as I did not get any reply to my question which I posted in Dec 08. I have a Toyota Corolla 1998, S Reg Automatic GS 1.3 bug eye shape UK Model car which I bought 2nd hand for my wife and it came with only one set of keys. I have acquired a new key Fob and would like to program it. Could some one please help me with the instructions. Thank you. Read more
It is confirmed this way of programming the fob. I've just done it with 89742-12111 today on my 1998 AE115.
Thanks to all
Hello, I have just changed the oil SAE 5 W 30, oil filter EFL 600, new sump plug and air filter on my Ford Focus 1.6 auto 2003.
I used to get my spares from Halfords but this year used the Ford dealer as the prices were similar.
I would like to replace the spark plugs soon as I have done about 35,000 miles now.
Last year I bought some NGK 731 TR5A-10 but have not fitted them yet.
In the Ford owners guide it says to use Motorcraft AYFS 22 C
In the Haynes manual it says use Bosch HR 8 MEV
Can I use the NGK's that I have or should I buy either the Motorcraft or Bosch?
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At times both Bosch and NGK have been supplied by Ford in Motorcraft boxes.
After washing the car I always used to spray the bodywork with a solution of water and Turtle Wax rinse magic, which is no longer available. A pity because it did a lovely job of beading the water and making it run off. I was wondering if dishwasher rinse aid would do the same job or would it do any harm to paintwork or seals. Is there a product available used by professional valeters? Read more
There's lots of grit comes off house roofs and goes into the water butt and
I have no intention of grinding......>>
That's why the butt tap is not at the absolute bottom of the butt. All stray particles will have floated to the top or settled at the bottom so the only contaminants will be the odd microscopic plant life of no significance. I always use it for screenwash, antifreeze mixture and rinsing chamois skin/synthetic rag.
Hi all as regulars will know I own an 05 Vrs with 35k and full dealer history. Yesterday I was nearing the end of a journey from Torbay to Tavistock when,without and warning there was a loud screeching howl from under the bonnet and a loss of power. I pulled over straight away and called the AA and the guy said it was prob the variable vanes sticking and recovered it to a dealer. I am furious and want to know if I need a new turbo. I will also be pursuing Skoda for good will as I have a lot of mechanical sympathy. I have never thrashed the car from cold, I always allow a few minutes idle at the end of a run and use 4500rpm a few times a week when warm to clear the muck out.
I thought this was a reliable turbo set up and the AA guy said it is rare. As I say it is a whine at idle building to a scream when the car is taken off idle. there was no smoke or blow up and the car starts ok.Anyone had the same problem and anyone got some advice? My love affair with this car and Diesel is over and I think it will have to go.
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I'd say you've had a bit of a result and regardless of what extra you do or don't achieve, Skoda UK have done the decent thing when they could have easily done otherwise. Have to say I was keeping an eye on this and expecting the normal VAG rubbish response that others have experienced. Speaks volumes for the Skoda brand. Well done!
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Any idea how to get the panel back on? The breakdown mechanic who removed it didn't put it back and now I can't physically push it back on. Am using quite a bit of pressure but don't want to snap the two metal spring things. Thanks!