March 2009
I would appreciate some advice on a possible car purchase. My budget is just under £1000 cash, plus a P reg Megane for possible part exchange.
I've spotted a couple of cars online which I'm interested in, but looking at the online tax database has thrown up some questions.
Firstly, a Nissan Primera, from a dealer with RAC Approved status.
The tax status is as follows:
Date of Liability = 01 01 2010
Vehicle Status = SORN Not due
The car is MOT'd until Jan 2010
Should I be suspicious of the fact it's currently SORN'ed? Also, it probably won't have been driven since it's MOT in January this year.
Would I be able to test drive it on the dealer's trade plates without a tax disc?
Second car: Mazda 626, being sold by a different dealer.
This is showing on the database as being unlicensed, with a Date of Liability of 5 Nov 2008. I thought cars were only allowed to be either licensed or SORN'ed these days?
I'm more suspicious of this one!
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Hi all, I've bought a Ford Focus sport 115 bhp 04 plate a few months back. Its now done 90k and since I bought it in December it has yet to impress me with fuel consumption. The car's had a full service, and has been driven easily with a mixture of town and motorway. Today I have done 430 miles on full tank 60 -70 mph all the way and it needs fuel again!! I think there might be a leak of sorts from underneath but only noticed wet patches underneath very occasionally.
What are the known faults with these engines? Is it likely to cost alot and worth getting rid of asap? My mechanic says he wouldn't know why MPG is so low (dont think his opinion is worth much based on this).
Any help would be appreciated, thanks. Read more
a work pal has a 1.8tdci & gets between 550-600 on a tank. Commutes 120 miles a day.
In Swansea this morning saw a reasonable looking Triumph 1300 in traditional 1970's brown parked at the side of the road outside a Toyota dealer, what was surprising was that I then saw a Toledo (the car that followed the 1300) driving the other way about 20 seconds later, maybe there's less rust in South Wales. Read more
If it was driven properly, there were no problems.
Quite right. The Herald like all swing axle rear-drive cars needed the driver to keep his or her foot firmly in it in second or third gear to maintain negative camber at the back and make it squat down. In the case of the Herald (and, one is told, the Porsche 356) it oversteered anyway, but in an agreeable controllable way that the driver was expecting. In the case of my swing axle Skoda Estelle it stayed as if on rails (unless you lifted off suddenly in mid bend, then you had to act fast).
Around town i only get 23mpg, no lead foot, A/C off.
Just had it's MOT and emissions were fine.
Is this normal mpg around town?
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If one could generalise, fuel consumption has never been Ford's strongest point.
My xtrail comes with a full size 16" spare steel wheel, fitted with a 215/65 R16 98M Bridgestone TEMPORARY tyre, pressure 44psi.
Nissan say i cannot fit a different tyre to this rim.
I cannot tow with this wheel/tyre, and the speed limit is 50mph
I can buy a 16" steel spare wheel, fitted with a tyre of the same make as the rest of the
wheels. The tyre is dunlop SP20 215/65 R16 98H. (But of a different size.)
Is this tyre suitable.
The four alloys are 17" wheels, tyres are dunlop SP20 215/60 R17 96H.
I think it is, if so what pressure should i use it at? Alloys are 31psi Read more
Cheers Docter, i,ll do that
When I connect to the net at home, I'm identified by a variable IP address allocated to my ISP which is different every time I log on.
When I log on from work, we have a fixed IP address
What happens if I log on via my laptop through my mobile phone ?
Just curious
p.s. - any chance some well meaning Mod could bump this into the beginning of the next volume ?
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Good grief Rattle, I see what you mean!
Thanks,
JH
My engine warning light has been on for a couple of days, although the car seems to be running fine. I read about the diagnostic test can you can run by starting the engine while holding down the mileometer - this resulted in code Er 0541. I've googled this but can't turn anything up - could anyone tell me what the code means?
Thanks. Read more
hi
recently found this
P0541 is "Low voltage on the #1 intake air heater relay". It's set when the signal from the #1 intake air heater output does match the signal from the #1 intake air heater feedback. Possible causes are:
-Loose connection
-Intake air heater relay failed
-signal circuit open from relay to ECM
-signal circuit shorted to ground
-ECM
hope this helps
Anyone out there have any idea what my problem might be? It's a 1993 Mk3 Astra 'Cesaro' 1.4MPI. It's done 128,000 miles(!) but still drives exceptionally well. It's still on its original clutch. There is no sign of any clutch slip, but it's become difficult to engage 1st and 2nd gears when moving. When stationary (with or without the engine running) all gears engage without difficulty. When drivng however, the symptom appears. Strangely, once the engine has warmed up the fault gradually gets much less severe, but doesn't disappear entirely. Is it the clutch, or the gearbox? Any ideas would be gratefully received!! Read more
Linkage greased. Gearbox/transmission oil changed. There is a noticeable improvement engaging 1st and 2nd gears!!! While I was underneath I removed the steel plate beneath the bellhousing (which I am led to believe is for clutch access). It doesn't expose the clutch plate, and there is no way I can see that you could replace the clutch through this very narrow aperture between the bell-housing and the engine sump! The 'plate' on this car is quite narrow in profile and bolts on to the bell-housing alone, i.e. it doesn't extend to the engine block. Looks like a gearbox-out job on this model, if I ever decide to do the clutch(?). I mention this cos somewhere on this forum someone wrote that if you have a plate underneath, then you can replace a clutch with everything in situ!
Please help! I have a 1.6 8v club 2002 - cig lighter would not work so i changed the relay 15amp - then next day battery dies - no lights nothing - put new battery in - recoded radio ok - but when i put the rear heater on engine stalls, air conditioning - engine stalls - also no illumination of dashboard - dimmer for dash board illumination does not do anything - no rear fog lights - and engine feels likes its gonna stall when first starting - had oil and air filter change. Checked all relays under bonnet and inside by the steering wheel all ok - only cig lighter one had fused.
Please help - i live in wolverhampton - any good garages with good equipment to reccommend? An honest garage please.
Car needs to be fixed asap - any ideas?
checked alternator that reads ok and so does new battery Read more
Thank you both for the reply, yes i did mean the fuse - silly me.
I think what happened was that the cig lighter was not heating up enough so i used to hold it in manually - not clever - then it stopped working - altogether. I took the car home switched it off - and the next day the central locking would not work but after i put the key in the ignition it re-sync ok, and I replaced the fuse as i thought it might have blown - interestingly after i placed the fuse the cig lighter worked. I noticed another fuse above the cig lighter one which the manual says is only for astra convertible - mine is hatch - but as the manual states some circuits are protected by multiple fuses i thought it was probably for something else besides its always been there for the last 4 years no problem.
Then the next day the car would not start - no central locking again - so i tried to start the engine - red warning lights on dash where dimly lit - nothing made a noise at stage 3 ignition. No interior lights - nothing - so i replaced the battery - and my remote re-sync - ok.
I checked the battery with an alternator tester i bought from Aldi - at rest new batt is +13.5v (replaced batt 5v) - with engine on new batt reads +14volts ("strong" LED).
I thought it was fixed - and thanked myself for a good job. Drove the car home at night from petrol station and noticed the dashboard illumination was not lit - the lever at the side for dimming it did not do anything, also heating controls back light is also not working. But radio is ok.
As for the engine - when you start it in neutral with the clutch pressed down - its ok - idles at 800rpm - but in neutral with the clutch out - it makes a chugging sound and the rev counter goes below 700rpm - you need to apply accelerator pedal to start. Once started idles ok - a little rev counter movement but ok. Then when i put the rear heater on it goes below 700rpm again - same for air recirculation and air con.
As a side - no rear fogs - the button on the dash - when you press it does not show the illumination icon on the dashboard to tell you its on - also at the rear of car - nothing - ordinary brake lights are ok. Its dark when i come home from work - so may have to wait for the weekend - to check fuses again - but yes - i did check the bank of fuses under the hood and they look ok - i did not pull them out to check as i thought maybe they control the air bags - and i do not want them to go faulty.
i read somewhere that when you change the battery the caR has to re-learn its electrical load for idle - but i do not want to stress the new battery as i need to get to work mon-fri, i'll try more things on sat.
Thanks mfarrow - will check that fuse by pulling it out physically - tomorrow - do you know what it controls?
Please be aware that i checked the engine fuses by shinning a LED light on the top of them and i saw thick metal inside - i know this is a stupid way to check but the manual said " if there are any fuses broken consult your dealer" and that scared me a little.
Also when i changed the battery a tiny spark came off when connecting the + lead of the new batt between the lead and battery terminal only- could this have done something? or is that "unlikely"
thanks for you help - please offer more guidance if you can. Will update tom evening with details on 60a fuse 3
We have had a modest degree of good fortune and SWMBO suggested I treat myself to a nice car, and make my 114 mile round trip commute a little more pleasant. I always knew there was a good reason for marrying her apart from her ravishing looks, attractive personality and bank balance (I was very young at the time). I posted a while back on a scare I had on the M40 and ended up buying an Octavia 1.9 90bhp diesel hatch. Not the quickest off the line but solid as a rock and after 16k miles it is acceptably comfortable, very reliable, very economic with never less than 50mpg but is a little throaty. So I will need a little convincing to give up a very well sorted and reliable if boring car, but when doing 5/600 miles a week at my own expense boring has its advantages.
So having a little think, I need a car that will take a dog, the Skoda has a very high lip, so perhaps an estate. FWD preferred, we live in the sticks and the recent snow was just not a problem for me unlike when I had my RWD auto Merc. Of course with my mileage economy has to be an issue. So giving it a little thought the Volvo S60 diesel would be good, but only 4 doors. V70 size just too large for the country lanes where I would like a more nimble car. BMW? Well, my chum has had endless trouble with run flat tyres etc and a completely useless dealer which has caused me to hold back there. My heart says a Merc C220 cdi would be very nice, but RWD and probably auto and a lurking rust history. Saab, I dont think so either, elderly products and an uncertain future. So I come down to the Jag X type estate, with the 2.2 diesel engine and 6 speed box. I have read the CBC review and googled around. The pundits dont like the old fashioned interior and gawky retro looks but users seem to rave, I have read some very enthusiastic comments about them. So this is looking interesting, but I am 6' 4" tall and they look a little on the tight side - not taken a close look yet. Not worried about rear leg room but obviously comfort is high on my list. I have seen a 3/4 yr old 2.2ltr SE with 55k for about 9k which seems very reasonable and much less than an equivalent BMW/Merc. I will only trade in the Skoda if I get a sensible deal, I reckon on 10p mile depreciation as a rough guide, and if I can get a good price to change could be tempted.
However, I need a reliable, economic, safe car - would one of these meet these criteria, but also represent a worthwhile leg up from the Skoda? My main reason for ruling out an A4 estate. No rush to buy at the moment, but if I am going to do it nice to make the change before a mid summer fgamily wedding.
All comments welcome! Thanks, MGs Read more
The Jaguar / Ford comparison is rather similar to the Audi / VW decision that I went through in 2007. The oily bits (2.0 TDI in my case) are the same: you have to decide whether the differences (mainly image, badge and interior fittings) are worth several thousand pounds extra. For some people they will be: for me although I am an Audi fan I couldn't justify £5,000 extra so it was a VW. No regrets 30,000 miles on.
Retention of value is sometimes a factor, although not in these cases: both A4 and Golf hold their value well, and both X-type and Mondeo are pretty chronic, according to the What Car tables.
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Thanks for all your replies, I may get to see it tomorrow and find out more about it.