December 2007
Hello
I'm gonna have the cambelt done, as the previous owner hadn't got it done for a while, and the car has gone 61,000. Its a 1.6 petrol 1997 plate.
Does anyone have a ballpark figure of how much I should be looking to pay?
Cheers
F Read more
Hi,my 1996 Rover 420 HATCHBACK,needs another sunroof glass,I have located one but it is out of a SALOON model,can anyone confirm they are the same part.Many Thanks Andrew...
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I do like my Diesels to be Turbocharged for that extra OOMPH!!!! Read more
"Shouldn't be a problem whatever you get. The part numbers only differ based on build date (VIN number) and not on body style. The later part number superceded the earlier one and applies to all cars so they should be interchangeable"
Thanks R40,that is most helpfull.
Merry Christmas...Andrew...
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I do like my Diesels to be Turbocharged for that extra OOMPH!!!!
I have a 2l petrol 2001 peugeot 406 petrol estate After jump starting my sons saab the engine management light on my vehicle dash came on permenently. Also the warning message on the display, showed" engine anti polution system defective".any ideas please. Read more
You've created a fault of some type; that's a general fuelling ECU warning.
Get the fault-codes read and we'll know more.
Hi,
A friend of mine lived for a while in South Africa. There and then, no motorist paid an insurance company directly. They just nominated a company they wanted to represent them and the Government paid that firm, apparently an annual retainer and whatever extra insurance costs the motorists incurred.
The Government put a levy for this on the price of fuel. It meant that no motorist was uninsured as they were going to have to pay for the insurance anyway. This strikes me as a very good idea and I'd like to hear comments on this from the forum, please. Read more
I've had a really good idea. Why not introduce traffic cops to the roads? This way the existing laws could be enforced. Speed cameras don't do this as has been discussed numerous times here.
Just bring back traffic patrols. It's not rocket science.
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\"Nothing less than 8 cylinders will do\"
anyone help,
problem 1
for the last month i've had a clicking on full wheel lock and a thump when taking corners
especially roundabouts. Had CV joint done last week, clicking gone but still got thump. Any ideas
Problem 2
last 3 cold starts get a whine when first begin to accelerate/pull off - seems to be at a certain range of revs - then goes after a minute - am concerned as my oil warning light is faulty and wondering if this is connected to a pump going (should learn not to try and self diagnose problems via the web) or just a loose alternator belt
any help appreciated
thanks
slt Read more
D'oh
its a 2.4 diesel not a turbo
94 registration
re oil light: common fault on T4, apparently loose circuit in dash display - also no fuel/temp guage but can intermittently come on if fuel tank full
thanks for response
I received an advisory on my MOT that the brake efficiency (service brake) was low (58%). Looking at how this is tested 58% seems slightly worrying...
The brakes have never been the greatest (standard fiesta behaviour) but recently I have been noticing that the braking is a little variable: sometimes when I press the pedal it feels a little soft and the braking is not as good as it should be (but adequate for normal stopping), releasing the pedal and reapplying normally gives a better result. There's also a bit of juddering when braking hard (although this could just be a bit of run-out on the discs as they're not vented and have a tendency to warp).
Searching through the back-room posts I'm coming to the conclusion that the master cylinder could be at fault, especially as I didn't see the advice not to fully depress the pedal whilst bleeding the brakes (which I did when I replaced the flexible hoses) so I may have damaged the seals.
The discs and pads were changed just over a year ago and the rear brakes (drums, shoes and cylinders) were all changed about 2.5 years ago. The minimum pad and thicknesses specified for the MOT are very similar to those specified for normal service in the haynes manual so I"m guessing it's not just an issue of changing the pads. The fluid was changed and the entire system bled when the flexible hoses were changed (less than a year ago).
What's the best way of diagnosing the cause of low braking efficiency and/or any potential fault in the master cylinder?
Cheers,
G
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take back wheels off ,drop the jack to the floor so the rear axle is as low as you can get it then gravity bleed the rear cylinders one at a time
Hi - I have a 1999 Peugeot 306 Diesel Turbo which has about 128000 miles on the clock. I've recently had a new cambelt and radiator fitted and like the other guy, the aircon is knackered and too expensive to fix. Apart from a minor issue with the brakes going a few months ago, I've had nothing but trouble free motoring in it since I got it second hand.
The wife is expecting in April and I am concerned about its reliability and its safety. I was wondering how long I can expect it to keep going. I really like it but I want something with all the safety whistles and bells. Opinions would be welcome
Also, does anyone know if there is a particular brand or make of car seat that fits a 306 particularly well???
Cheers
Read more
We used to have a nice Klippan car seat in my 306 istr. Get your self to you nearest out of town Mothercare. They will let you try seats in the car until you find one that fits. Incidentally, I found that the baby seat had to be on the passenger side in the rear as the drivers seat was too far back (and I'm only 5'9")
I have always found the battery in my Astra struggles, especially in cold weather. I replaced the standard battery with a heavy duty one last January, but it still struggles during the winter when starting from cold, especially if not used every day. Using through the week its fine, but Monday mornings its touch and go whether there is enough juice left to start it!
I assume something is draining it when parked. Is it possible to disconnect or take fuse/relay out of the alarm circuit and still start the car? I know some alarm systems are tamper-proof and immobilise the car if any disconnection is attempted. We just want to rule this out as a possible cause, and the alarm is the only thing other than the clock that is running when the car is not used. Its the standard factory fitted alarm which sets as soon as key is removed from the ignition.
Any advice on this or any other possible causes please?
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Worth checking the amount of current the car is taking when it's at rest. The problem may not be the alarm. Disconnect the battery (if it's got an alarm check in the manual how to do that without setting it off. I beleieve it's ignition on, then off, then disconnect battery within 15 seconds - so needs a terminal loose) Put a millammeter in series with the battery lead and reconnect. The static drain should be a few 10's of milliamps, even with an alarm. If it's significantly more, pull fuses until you find the source of the current drain.
JS
Need to change the fuel filter on my Audi 80 TDI but I can't get hold of a manual.
Its a screw in type located in a metal holder and it appears that a clamp bolt needs loosening before the filter can be removed.
Grateful to know the procedure and whether there is a bleed device on the top of the filter holder.
Many Thanks Read more
You should be able to unscrew the old one and put the new one in as you've worked out already, but make sure you fill the new filter with diesel before you fit it. I'm not sure if there's any bleed device but you should be ok if the new filters full up with fuel.
I'm thinking about getting an old series Landrover, pre 1973. If I do, I'll be getting one in good-ish condition that has had a recent replacement chassis. I'd like a galvanised one but I have seen a few advertised with powder coated chassis. How is powder coating carried out and does it get into all the nooks and crannies like galvanising does? I thought it was some sort of spraying process, if so, I doubt it'll be as good. Does anyone know? Read more
And presumably won't reach every nook and cranny on the inside? I'm convinced. Galvanised for sure.
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My last car was a 1600cc Astra and Harrats of Sheffield (Volvo dealership) charged £75.00 inclusive (any make up to 1600cc) including all parts for changing the cam belt.
This was in August of 2007.
If it has drive or fan belts as well as a cam belt, have you considered the savings by getting all belts done at the same time?
It could work out cheaper for you ? this was the cheapest option for me with the Astra.
If the cam belt has not been done for ages, is the drive/fan belt just as old?
Also get (if it has this) the pulley (if not included in the price) assembly changed. Those little pulleys have to work damned hard you know?
As a precaution I always ask that the water pump be checked out and the engine coolant thermostat be replaced at the same time. It is all in the same area and whilst all the belts are off - all is easily at hand.
Doing this will add approx a half hour labour charges and may save for just as expensive as the cam belt labour charges by ?possible? component failure of either the water pump, the coolant thermostat or the drive/fan belt.
In total I paid £119.97 (inc vat) for both belts, pulley assembly, thermostat and labour.