September 2007
See here - tinyurl.com/3xjn6b
Want a car fit for royalty? A modified Mercedes Sprinter van used by the Sultan of Brunei to watch camel racing is for sale on Auto Trader.
This 2004 Mercedes Benz AMG VIP Meeting Vehicle started out life as a sprinter van before being emphatically redesigned.
The oil baron commissioned Mercedes tuning specialists AMG to make three of the bespoke machines, which were fitted with 2.3-litre supercharged engines.
On the outside, the Sultan had 18-inch alloys and an aerodynamic bodykit added ? along with uprated brakes and an AMG sports exhaust.
Inside, AMG really went to work. The bright red interior is all leather with matching red carpet. The VIP cabin has four electric seats, LCD screens, electric table and storage compartment and a sound system worthy of a Kiss concert.
And the amazing air-conditioning system, more suited to the climate of Dubai than Dorking, is powered by an on-board diesel generator.
The Sultan is one of the world?s biggest petrolheads, and has owned 5,000 cars including 500 Rolls Royces.
Now you can get you hands on the Sultan?s old car ? which has covered just 2,000 miles ? for £82,250! Read more
Source here
tinyurl.com/2yruw2
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But, AS, ye canna change the laws of physics.
Sorry to have made this so degenerate.
I was wondering what peoples oppinions are on fueling up your car. I have limited knowledge but i see fueling your car with good fuel as beneficial in lots of way. I admit i have limited knowledge but surely putting good fuel in will help prevent long term damage or wear and tear on the mechanics; especially in diesels. Diesels as it seems are prone to clogged EGR valves, worn out turbos, cat problems etc. The soot produced as part of the combustion process surely adds to the problems with the mechanics becoming blocked and the lubricants of the oil becoming less effective because of the soot in the oil.
Therefore since buying my new cars this years both toyotas as i'm a jap fan i now own a t180 and a rav4 xtr and they are both fueled with shell and nothing else. My t180 i'm looking after the most since the shell garage right by my work now has V-Power diesel which is suppose to contain cleaning agents for extra lubricity and soot breakdown. Whilst i maybe naive by believing in this i'm willing to pay the extra. On balance i get the same / similar miles to a tank compared to shell extra diesel and its extra cost is barely even noticeable costing no more than a beer each fill up. If it really does work its worth it.
You could say i'm a bit cautious now i own diesel cars for the first time because i do hear the horror stories. But along with fueling it well i also think its a good idea to start the car as soon as you get in allowing it to idle for 10secs whilst you put your seat belt on. Also i idle the car for about a minute after my a-road / dual carriageway commute to let to turbo oil drain / or cool down before switch off - also never driving hard or revving too much until warm. I'm hoping all these things will help in the long run. But i can't help but revisit the fueling issue; surely its very important to feed your car decent fuel, i suppose its a bit like feeding yourself.
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I used to use supermarket and branded fuel interchangably with both my previous fords, but on the ST220 on several occasions after fuelling with supermarket fuel i noticed that the the car started behanving strangely. After filling with a supermarket fuel the revs would not drop when i pushed the clutch and would rise instead. I took the car to ford and they could find nothing wrong. I ran the tank down and filled with a branded fuel the car started running perfectly again. Went through a few tanks of this and then went back to a tank of supermarket fuel and the car did the same thing again. So i stopped using them on this car, i know this is not a fair test of any sort and could well be co-incidence, but is what i found with my car.
P.S this was when the problem with contaminated fuel was going on so it may have been something to do with this
Suddenly this oncoming 7 1/2 Ton box lorry veered to its nearside, the driver quickly corrected which caused it to veer towards and across the center line and into my path. Its driver corrected again and it swerved back to its nearside again.
I was just at the point of taking avoiding action, ie the nearside ditch, when the driver corrected. the driver continued to fight with the steering as it disappeared behind me and eventually regained control.
For what reason, maybe a mobile phone or checking a delivery note - I dont know. But It was a reminder just how a moments inattention could have catastrophic consequences and frequently does. Also how much our lives depend on the focus and skills of other road users. We all have a duty to each other and to the skill of driving.
Unfortunately I did not get the number or the matter would have gone further.
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Fullchat Read more
I nearly lost a Disco on a a very greasy roundabout, everything electronic came on to help ! Now once one of those goes you'd know about it.
I'm just contemplating having the timing belt replaced on my Rover 216 SLi J reg '92 SOHC Honda engine. (of recent igniter unit failure fame).
Can anyone recommend makes of belts and methodology; I was thinking along the lines of a genuine Honda belt and wondering if anything else had to be replaced at the same time? It last had a Quinton Hazell belt (which makes me nervous) 3.5 years and 10,000m ago.
I'll probably send it into the garage, unless someone can convince me that it's an easy job.
Bye the way, an addition to my last post - I found the PGFM main relay, which is a smallish brown rectangular box with 4 connectors, that is fitted onto a slide on bracket behind the cigar lighter in the centre console.
Regards,
Victor2
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Yes thanks for the tips everyone - I will have the auxiliary belts done - I'll just have to locate the water pump and have that done as well if it runs off the belt - I've never heard of a Honda w pump failure though, but I can see the potential hazard
Cheers,
Victor2
In Car-by-Car Breakdown, HJ comments on this car that the "Slow 1.2 3-cylinder (is) likely to share probelms of this engine". What are these problems? My new, 70 hp version has done about 600 miles and the only problem I can see is that the engine is too easy to redline in 1st.
He says the drive is "disappointingly ordinary" but what more could be expected at the price? The drive is firm without the Ibiza's spine-shattering tendency. Like me, that car is staid and upright.
Subject line tweaked by PU. Read more
Ugly beast compared with the Mk. 1..
I agree... similarly unbiased. ;)
The new estate looks better in my opinion. I didn't think there'd be an estate as I thought the Roomster had taken on that role.
new.skoda-auto.com/COM/model/newfabiacombi/look/Pa...x
Having just had a full service and passed it's MoT, my 98 Renault Laguna 1800 RN petrol has developed an engine problem. When turning the ignition the engine turns over but does not start unless I press the accelerator and even the it takes a few seconds to catch properly. Also when the engine is running in stationary, when I press the accelerator to move off, the rev count goes down and I have to depress the accelerator harder in order for the car to move. My garage say that the plugs are sparking and I would need to take the car to a diagnostic centre to find the problem as they do not have a diagnostic machine and can't seem to put their finger on the problem. Does anyone out there have a clue what may be wrong. I have discounted starter motor problems as the car turns over fine. As the plugs are new and are sparking, I have discounted plug and distributer problems. anyone had a similar problem to this
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Renault electrics are notorious, but IMO if it's not an internal ECU problem, it sounds a bit throttle position sensor-ish. Best taking it somewhere with diagnostic equipment, because diagnosing a fault online on a car notorious for electrical gremlins is little more than a guessing game.
1992 1.2i Nova. Bog standard and original, no extra wiring. Drives perfectly until the wipers are used.
The wipers work Ok in any mode, full speed to single wipe and wash / wipe. The problem is when the single wipe is selected, the engine stops a split second after the wipers park. When driving it feels like a misfire, and the engine management light comes on, then the engine restarts and everythings fine, when idling, the engine stops but restarts straight away. I've had a quick look at earths and fuses but can't see anything amiss. Any clues ?
s
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Bit of divergent thinking here:
If the misfire occurs only when the wipers are switched on, are we saying the misfire only occurs when it's raining?
Could it be an intermittent HT problem when it's wet? I once drove a Nova like that!
A car crazy motor fanatic has converted his crusty old Citroen 2CV into a stretch Limousine - to make room for his seven-strong family.
tinyurl.com/2z57ty (shortened link to www.dailymail.co.uk)
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"Even more bizarre" still was the double ended version, that did not have to be turned round. The driver simply moved to the other seats and operated the other engine. It was developed for use on narrow tracks, such as in the Landes pinewoods in SW France. I had a 425cc example, with a motorcycle-type speedo, then an Ami6, then another 2cv with the 602cc engine. The very first ones only had one headlight, on the offside.
Has any one ever dealt with newcars4less?
have had a reasonable quote from them on a new BMW 3 series.
They seem to accept part exchange.
Apparently you have to deal with them direct regarding handing over funds rather than the dealer but will be UK spec with UK warranty
and will deliver to your door.
Been given a decent part exchange price but still have the option to sell privately if i am able to.
I know that other brokers: drivethedeal and deal drivers have a good reputation ( assume this is what you mean) but was wondering if anybody had dealt with newcarsforless?
Some editing done including subject line for clarity. Read more
More of a throne van actually.